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Thread: Need assistance troubleshooting a intermittent check charging system indicator.

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    Need assistance troubleshooting a intermittent check charging system indicator.

    Car: 2012 Enclave 2wd
    Battery tested at 13.9 volts
    Alternator test successfully

    The battery light and "check charging system" text appears on the dash, the battery voltage gauge also drops below 10 volts. I've already replaced the alternator and the battery twice(under warranty). Got any ideas on what is causing the system to think the battery has low voltage? We tested the battery at the battery and not using the terminals under the hood. Its getting frustrating as hell. The car has 91k miles.

    I hate this car, probably the last GM vehicle I'll own.

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    Tristan's Avatar

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    Loose connection. Check battery cable and alternator cable.

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tristan View Post
    Loose connection. Check battery cable and alternator cable.
    I'll double check them.

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    Registered Member runningmole's Avatar

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    Body Control Module? The reading I did the other year is that's linked to all kinds of big & lil issues with those cars

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by runningmole View Post
    Body Control Module? The reading I did the other year is that's linked to all kinds of big & lil issues with those cars
    Is that in the ECU?

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    "What up 2-1-2" Locker537's Avatar

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    In addition to a loose connection, check for corrosion on the battery cables? Sounds obvious, but I remember my wife's Jeep having crazy symptoms and that was the cause.

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    F*** Islam BlazedTech's Avatar

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    Don't forget the ground side. Check the grounds from the battery and well as engine and chassis grounds.

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlazedTech View Post
    Don't forget the ground side. Check the grounds from the battery and well as engine and chassis grounds.
    got any idea where they are located on a Enclave?

    Quote Originally Posted by Locker537 View Post
    In addition to a loose connection, check for corrosion on the battery cables? Sounds obvious, but I remember my wife's Jeep having crazy symptoms and that was the cause.
    two brand new batteries have been used.

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    Take a look at this and see if you think it's relevant, it's for a Acadia

    https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...ystem-message/

    I think my next step would be using a scan tool and driving it while observing the signal to the BCM.

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1STLS1 View Post
    Take a look at this and see if you think it's relevant, it's for a Acadia
    https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...ystem-message/
    I think my next step would be using a scan tool and driving it while observing the signal to the BCM.
    I do not have that type of equipment so I guess its off to the dealership.

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    I have been wondering how this worked out?

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1STLS1 View Post
    I have been wondering how this worked out?
    Light hasnt came on while I've been in the car to monitor it.....

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    I had the dealership check it out. They think its the Auto-Zone alternator intermittently failing while driving.

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    I have heard numerous situations where a aftermarket alternator does not work correctly with the vehicles programming, Nissan, Ford and Mercedes have this issue also.

    Bench test it, works great, trying to get it to interface with the vehicles computer that works off a specific resistance or it's out of it's range by just a little and it faults out or doesn't function as it was designed to do.

    20 years ago, yeah, check the sense wire or ground, today's stuff is really advanced

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1STLS1 View Post
    I have heard numerous situations where a aftermarket alternator does not work correctly with the vehicles programming, Nissan, Ford and Mercedes have this issue also.

    Bench test it, works great, trying to get it to interface with the vehicles computer that works off a specific resistance or it's out of it's range by just a little and it faults out or doesn't function as it was designed to do.

    20 years ago, yeah, check the sense wire or ground, today's stuff is really advanced
    that makes a bit of sense because the light hasnt came on since I made this post.

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    Registered Member FirehawkNS's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1STLS1 View Post
    I have heard numerous situations where a aftermarket alternator does not work correctly with the vehicles programming, Nissan, Ford and Mercedes have this issue also.

    Bench test it, works great, trying to get it to interface with the vehicles computer that works off a specific resistance or it's out of it's range by just a little and it faults out or doesn't function as it was designed to do.

    20 years ago, yeah, check the sense wire or ground, today's stuff is really advanced
    It's almost annoying how advanced, yet how useless the codes can be now compared to what I remember in my older vehicles.

    We have been dealing with all sorts of pulsing issues in the wifes car. SES lights randomly. I basically got it down to just the P1101 code which points to the MAF. Sometimes. Or it's the Crank position sensor....or the VVT sensor...or....

    So I have replaced the MAF, the Crank sensor....on to the VVT sensor I guess.

    I feel like in the past I always had a code that was pretty spot on to the issue, now it's like "it's one of these 10 interconnected things...good luck" :/

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    Registered Member mogs01gt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by FirehawkNS View Post
    It's almost annoying how advanced, yet how useless the codes can be now compared to what I remember in my older vehicles.
    We have been dealing with all sorts of pulsing issues in the wifes car. SES lights randomly. I basically got it down to just the P1101 code which points to the MAF. Sometimes. Or it's the Crank position sensor....or the VVT sensor...or....
    So I have replaced the MAF, the Crank sensor....on to the VVT sensor I guess.
    I feel like in the past I always had a code that was pretty spot on to the issue, now it's like "it's one of these 10 interconnected things...good luck" :/
    I feel the exact same way. Unless you have an professional code scanner, the codes me jack shit.
    Last edited by mogs01gt; 09-30-2019 at 06:38 PM.

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    Registered Member shuck's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by mogs01gt View Post
    I feel the exact same way. Unless you have an professional code scanner, the codes me jack shit.
    I bought a BT OBDII module that plugs right in for $60. I got it for the track so I can record data but it works great as a scanner. You can download an app that will allow you to read and research the codes, reset them and all of that.

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