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Thread: !Wire Mod

  1. #1
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    !Wire Mod

    OK, we did the !wire mod.

    Normal tools
    Special tools, paperclip

    The plan was to remove all of the wires from the connectors and keep the hole as small as possible, Using this method, we ended up with a grommet that had 5/8" ID as the rear hole and NO hole in the front side.

    Ok, the normal this is what it looked like BEFORE we started.



    This is the Paper clip that we used to release the wires from the connectors.



    This is the route we took rather than drilling a hole in the front of the wheel well.



    This is what remains to be "De-wired"



    Here is the front harness on it's new route



    This is the clip from the overflow tube that we installed to hold the wire bundle.



    Here is the holder and bundle in place.



    We relocated the ground to clean things off the "hump". The hole is drilled right over from the negative battery terminal



    Here it is with the negative lead sitting on it.



    Here's how you get the wires out. Press on the inside of the connector and while doing that, pull the wire out the back.



    The little "tang" is what holds in the wire. After they all are removed, you need to go back and bend the tang back up to its normal position. This will allow it to "catch" when you reinsert it later.



    Here's a close up of the "tang:



    OK, we have the connectors all removed AAAAARGH! Fear not, just remember to use the chart in the "How to forum" AND note that some plugs have two wires of the same color. Mark them to differentiate them for installation. Here's a link to the connector assignments and the plug wire colors. https://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...threadid=83525



    Here's the only hole we made for this. It will support the 5/8" ID grommet so the hole is 3/4"



    Another view with some suspension in to give a better location of the hole.



    Here's a look inside with the grommet in place.



    Another view



    Another view with suspension for placement relationship.



    OK, all the wires are in. To do this, load all of the wires through the grommet BEFORE you put the grommet in the hole. After the wires are in, then you work the grommet into the hole using a screwdriver.



    All of the wires are back in the connectors and the connectors are together



    The ground screw firmly fastened in place



    A couple of plugs to fill the unneeded holes and that's it.





    Total time estimated at 3 hours but it looks like it came from the factory!


    Crud, now I have to paint and shine that ole hump up! It looks rather abused from those connectors gouging into the paint.


    My thanks to Dynotune here in Jacksonville and Jimmy Himes who was the mastermind behind this great install.

    EDIT 7/28/2004


    Ok, I went back in and installed the hose I was showing earlier. Here are the pictures.


    THis is how I will "hang" the wire loom to the bottom side of the fender. I use the "hole" plug and strap a very small wire tie around the shaft (after I push it through the hole of course!) and this small wire tie holds the larger wire tie to the shaft of the hole plug.




    This shows the hole plugs in place with the wire ties connected.




    This shows the hose in place and wire tied up to the fender. I DID NOT seal the ends. This will allow any moisture (condensation) to escape and keep the inside of the tube vented and dry. I figured a little moisture won't hurt as they did get wet in the engine compartment. This will surely keep the flood of water that ya'll are worried about off of the connectors.





    Top side of the fender (Which I have painted with engine compartment black, looks like a virgin fender now!!) showing the 3 plugs that I used in the original connector mount holes.







    A couple of guys asked for more pictures of the front route I took to eliminate the front hole being drilled so I took a few to try and show the path.




    Path from the inside perspective...






    A little different angle from the inside





    NOTE! Revisited!
    The small hole is really great for the purist. HOWEVER, I've upgraded my engine and I had to remove all the wires from the plugs to get the engine dropped. PITA. I had to re-drop the engine because the builder failed to torque the head down. During the 2nd drop, the hole was enlarged to where the ENTIRE plug will come out. Removing the pins is just too much of a PITA.

    CLIFF notes: Make the hole large enough to be able to remove the entire plug.





    E

  2. #2
    Member #613 zombie5011's Avatar

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    I think I like that small hole alot better than a big one...

  3. #3
    rebmeM roineS dooley's Avatar

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    looks good but much more of a PITA to remove all the wires from the connectors

    you cant see my "big hole" on the back of the hump

    but looks real good

  4. #4
    hiding in the mountains SS-ROB's Avatar

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    Nice job E looks good!!

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    Registered Newbie killer01ws6's Avatar

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    That looks like a job well done E

    I will have to add that to my to do list.

  6. #6
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    Forgive my ignorance on this, but I assume that this is to "clean up" the engine bay?
    Do you have to wrap the connectors with something to keep road debris/water from getting into the connectors?

  7. #7
    Top down, cutout open ! Bad30th's Avatar

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    Awesome, great work !

    How are you going to paint/clean up "the hump" ? I'd really like to know, mine is pretty beat up from the harness too. I thought about taking it to a body shop and getting a quote...

    I did this mod a week or so ago but didn't unwire the weatherpack connectors so the hole is 1"x1.5". On my car it actually needed to be close to that size anyway because of the grommet and all the extra crap for the stereo and nitrous line/wiring that runs through it in addition to the factory wiring harness.

    It sure cleans up the engine bay !

    Bad30th
    Last edited by Bad30th; 07-21-2004 at 12:01 AM.

  8. #8
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    I ordered some spray paint that is advertised as the engine compartment black (my color). I'lll just mask everything up I don't want painted and spray it.

    E

  9. #9
    Danger Blk00z28's Avatar

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    I dont know E.

    I'd be a little scared to drive in the rain or anything like that. Because of all the wifes, and what they control. Dont get me wrong, it looks nice. But the caution of loss of power goign down the road would stop me from doing it.

    Now maybe if you could make a little panel that seals off the elements would look nice.

  10. #10
    At least they look fast CSX's Avatar

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    Originally posted by Blk00z28
    I dont know E.

    I'd be a little scared to drive in the rain or anything like that. Because of all the wifes, and what they control. Dont get me wrong, it looks nice. But the caution of loss of power goign down the road would stop me from doing it.

    Now maybe if you could make a little panel that seals off the elements would look nice.
    I'm curious as to the "weather-proofness" of this mod as well...I intend to do it as Eboggs has, and although there isn't much rain around here, i'd want to make sure that the wires aren't going to get a lot of it up in there...

  11. #11
    Danger Blk00z28's Avatar

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    Ya and being on the inside wheeel well. I'm sure its gonna get a good amount. I know they sale like a heat srink for normal wire, the hard part would be getting the connectors covered in something.

    Maybe a little plastic clip on box of some sort that covers them or something.

  12. #12
    ls1tech Boostaholic's Avatar

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    I'm going to be doing this mod tonight, I'll see if I can post some more pics tomorrow long as I don't have any hangups

  13. #13
    39 credit hrs done 40 left :( striker's Avatar

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    i definately would be worried about water getting in these. just haveing them in moisture for a while causes corrosion on most connectors like these! i cant image just letting water get thrown on them constantly just im sure there are ways to make a waterproof casing.. interesting to know what everyone has done...

  14. #14
    DrEvyl
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    Count me in the "worried about water intrusion" category...

    It looks nice, but as often as I have to drive my car in the rain, I would be very afraid.

  15. #15
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    I have a plan.

    I'm going back in and I have a pool draining hose that is blue and has a 2" ID. I wll make a sleeve for the wiring and that will eliminate the "intrusion" worries. Geeze guys, you think it doesn't get wet in the engine bay? This is not the problem you are making it to be. Water hits the connectors no matter where they are located unless they are in the cabin of the car.


    Goodness, what a bunch of worrywarts!

  16. #16
    Top down, cutout open ! Bad30th's Avatar

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    You guys realize that they are not in any way isolated from moisture in their factory location, right ?

    Christ, you'd think it was a sugar-cube house or something...

    ...especially where I live - it hasn't rained substantially in the last 8 months.

    Good idea with the hose E. I had thought about riveting an additional piece of plastic to the edge of the inner wheel well, but a waterproof hose sounds even better... 2" radiator hose should work nicely...

    ...so E, you have the stones to take a spray can to your engine bay ? Hmmm... Think Duplicolor gloss white would work OK on the 30th ?

    Bad30th

  17. #17
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    Originally posted by Bad30th
    You guys realize that they are not in any way isolated from moisture in their factory location, right ?

    Christ, you'd think it was a sugar-cube house or something...

    ...especially where I live - it hasn't rained substantially in the last 8 months.

    Good idea with the hose E. I had thought about riveting an additional piece of plastic to the edge of the inner wheel well, but a waterproof hose sounds even better... 2" radiator hose should work nicely...

    ...so E, you have the stones to take a spray can to your engine bay ? Hmmm... Think Duplicolor gloss white would work OK on the 30th ?

    Bad30th

    Well, these old stones are going to mask the lizard snot out of that engine bay. The only thing that will get hit with the paint will be the hump.

    The 2" hose is a draining hose used to drain swimming pools. It lays flat normally and will easily accommodate the connectors. I tried it already and its perfect. I'll post pictures when I do it. My car is afuckingain in the paint shop. We'll see if they can get the paint to stick this time.

    E
    E

  18. #18
    Danger Blk00z28's Avatar

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    Originally posted by eboggs_jkvl
    I have a plan.

    I'm going back in and I have a pool draining hose that is blue and has a 2" ID. I wll make a sleeve for the wiring and that will eliminate the "intrusion" worries. Geeze guys, you think it doesn't get wet in the engine bay? This is not the problem you are making it to be. Water hits the connectors no matter where they are located unless they are in the cabin of the car.


    Goodness, what a bunch of worrywarts!
    Glad I have this as a quote. For when the day comes, it might not be tomorrow, or next month, or this year.. but when it comes. And I see a post "Shorted out wires" from eboggs_jkvl..

    I'm just gonna laugh

    I understand that they do get some water to them when it rains under the hood, but theres a difference between under the hood and right behind the wheel, where its open to the elements Bad30th.

  19. #19
    Super Moderator
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    lots of people have done this mod over in the showcar and body mod forums... i've never seen anyone complain about water afterwards. don't forget the wires are inside the inner wheel well... so it is covered, not just sitting wide open in the wheel well. as posted, your engine bay is exposed as well

  20. #20
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    Don't hold your breath waiting for the dreaded 3 connector failure due to water damage. You might turn a very, very, deep shade of blue during the wait.

  21. #21
    ls1tech Boostaholic's Avatar

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    I started this mod last night, got all the wires disconnected and labeled for each connector but didn't have a drill bit big enough.

    Should be able to complete it tonight

  22. #22
    Top down, cutout open ! Bad30th's Avatar

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    Originally posted by Blk00z28
    I understand that they do get some water to them when it rains under the hood, but theres a difference between under the hood and right behind the wheel, where its open to the elements Bad30th.
    It's not actually as open as you'd think - the inner wheel well covers the wiring completely except for the side that faces the engine. The inner wheel well extends about a 1/2" lip past the wiring on mine, so only water being splashed indirectly off the inside of the wheel well would hit the wiring. Right now I have the harness completely wrapped with electrical tape, I'll be putting a heater hose over it this weekend.

    Once covered with a heater hose it will be practically waterproof - definately moreso than in its factory location.

    Good discussion guys.

    Bad30th

  23. #23
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    This is the "pipe" that I plan on using to reduce the flood of water to the connectors.










    The ID of the tube is 2" and will cover all of the wire and connectors. I'm thinking of just using a dab of silicone on the ends to seal it from the weather. That will allow me easy access back in to do work (if required).


    E

  24. #24
    ls1tech Boostaholic's Avatar

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    Originally posted by eboggs_jkvl
    This is the "pipe" that I plan on using to reduce the flood of water to the connectors.

    http://www.ls2.com/boggs/wiremod/wirea008.jpg

    http://www.ls2.com/boggs/wiremod/wirea009.jpg

    http://www.ls2.com/boggs/wiremod/wirea010.jpg

    http://www.ls2.com/boggs/wiremod/wirea011.jpg


    The ID of the tube is 2" and will cover all of the wire and connectors. I'm thinking of just using a dab of silicone on the ends to seal it from the weather. That will allow me easy access back in to do work (if required).


    E
    Thats looking good E, I should be to that part tonight, I'll try to get some pics up after I'm done.

  25. #25
    Registered Newbie killer01ws6's Avatar

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    Now that "pipe"
    will make it as water proof as it can be.

  26. #26
    At least they look fast CSX's Avatar

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    By the way, where can this pool drainage hose be picked up at? I'm guessing at a Home Depot or Lowe's....unfortunately, the nearest one of either is over 60 miles away . Any other places this can be bought at? Ace Hardware?

  27. #27
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    I got mine at Lowes. I would imagine a pool supply company or hardware store like Lowes would have it.

    E

  28. #28
    Resident Texan

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    I don't think I'm worried about water in the least bit, its the running over something in the road and it bouncing around in the wheel well and cutting them. I will run mine down the inside of the fender

  29. #29
    At least they look fast CSX's Avatar

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    Well it was about a 100 mile round trip, but I got the hose.

    Hey E, do you think a 1/2" ID grommet would be big enough to contain the wires? Looking at the pics, I don't think it will be, but I figured I may as well ask, since the only 5/8" ID grommets I found required a 7/8" or 1" hole.

  30. #30
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    Darn, I think that will be too small. We just made it with the size that I used. It was snug but didn't bind the wires at all.


    I finaly got my car back from the paint shop and I will add the hose tomorrow. I'll snap a few more pictures of what I rig up. I have some good ideas for the the support of the wiring harness and I'll make sure they work well and then get the pics on the board.


    E

  31. #31
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    UPDATE done to the initial picture set in the first part of the thread.

  32. #32
    Registered Newbie killer01ws6's Avatar

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  33. #33
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    One final thought. Some of you are aware that I had the car repainted to repair some "custom" work done on my fender..


    Well, I got the car back on Monday and my Air Conditioning wouldn't run when I set it on HIGH. The air was cold but it was only coming out of the lower ducts. It wouldn't come out of the high ducts with the higher speed.


    So, you are surely doing this by now


    Well, upon trouble shooting this little problem, I found the rubber connection in the engine compartment OF THE VACUUM line I re-ran had popped off. I had NOT cut the length down and the extra length had put a constant and steady pressure on the fitting and had popped it off of the valve.

    Ok, out come the cutters, snipped off the vacuum line to make it a "strainless" length into the 90 degree fitting on the valve and voila! We got Highspeed-come out the top front holes-AC.

    So, might I recommend that you snip the vacuum line to the correct length after you do this mod to eliminate thie problem?


    Just a point to toss in here!

    E

  34. #34
    Registered Member Customer service's Avatar

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    Hey, does anyone have any idea on how to remove the splashguard in the fenderwell? I cant seem even to get started lol.

  35. #35
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    Oy!

    Let's see...

    3 clips around the outer edge, phillips head screwdriver did those.

    3 sheet metal screws. Used a 1/4" drive socket set for those

    2 10MM bolts under the front leading edge.

    Remove....

  36. #36
    At least they look fast CSX's Avatar

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    I'm almost done....all the pins are back in their harnesses under the fender....all that remains is to secure them down...

    I had a hell of a time putting the pins back in the harnesses. The little "tang" that Elmer mentioned always seemed to either break off or bend in such a way to make it hard to get it back into the harness. Did you have any problems with that, E?

  37. #37
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    No, it really didn't need much of a bend to move it to relock. Just back to parallel was all that was required.

  38. #38
    J$ + M$ + W$ + B$ = The $'s
    skytower31's Avatar

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    E, where can I get that tool you used to pop the wires out of the connectors?

  39. #39
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    paper clip. Just flatten it a little with a hammer and it works great.

    E

  40. #40
    J$ + M$ + W$ + B$ = The $'s
    skytower31's Avatar

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    Awesome! Thanks!

  41. #41
    Registered Member Customer service's Avatar

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    Man, I cant find that gromet for anything, I also tried finding the ones on the fender also...where did you get them and do you have a part number?

  42. #42
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    Originally posted by J9_ls1
    Man, I cant find that gromet for anything, I also tried finding the ones on the fender also...where did you get them and do you have a part number?

    Shoot, I got the grommet at Lowes. It's not that tough to find.



    E

  43. #43
    At least they look fast CSX's Avatar

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    Originally posted by J9_ls1
    Man, I cant find that gromet for anything, I also tried finding the ones on the fender also...where did you get them and do you have a part number?
    I got mine from Ace hardware.

  44. #44
    Registered Member Customer service's Avatar

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    Crap, what department? I browsed all though plumbing ;(

  45. #45
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    In Lowes, it was with the special fasteners.

    E

  46. #46
    Pulled Over Toonz's Avatar

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    Thanks for the details, I plan on doing this over this coming weekend....

  47. #47
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    NOTE! Revisited!
    The small hole is really great for the purist. HOWEVER, I've upgraded my engine and I had to remove all the wires from the plugs to get the engine dropped. PITA. I had to re-drop the engine because the builder failed to torque the head down. During the 2nd drop, the hole was enlarged to where the ENTIRE plug will come out. Removing the pins is just too much of a PITA.

    CLIFF notes: Make the hole large enough to be able to remove the entire plug.

    Hint: We elongated the hole to make it an oval and then made a crest in the top of the oval. This crest allows the fastener snap to come out and keeps the overall size of the hole as small as possible.


    E

  48. #48
    Ride and Dine! FirehawkNS's Avatar

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    I did mine large enough because I was too lazy to deal with all the wires and me putting them back on/in wrong!!

  49. #49
    R.I.P. Dad - My Hero Soul TKR's Avatar

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    why isn't this a sticky?

  50. #50
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    Originally posted by Soul TKR
    why isn't this a sticky?
    You're gonna hate your self for asking but....


    The "How To" forum??? Go into this thread and scroll down and click on the !Wire Mod link.

    http://www.bar-and-grill.com/showthr...156#post323156


    Where did you go?


    Elmer

  51. #51
    R.I.P. Dad - My Hero Soul TKR's Avatar

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    Originally posted by eboggs_jkvl
    You're gonna hate your self for asking but....


    The "How To" forum??? Go into this thread and scroll down and click on the !Wire Mod link.

    http://www.bar-and-grill.com/showthr...156#post323156


    Where did you go?


    Elmer
    damn... i looked there... must have missed it.

    i've been lurking around... the TA has been in the shop for close to a year total... got a call yesterday saying it's finished...

    course now with gas prices, i won't be able to drive it

  52. #52
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    smiley's Avatar

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    a year? what they hell were they doing to it?

  53. #53
    R.I.P. Dad - My Hero Soul TKR's Avatar

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    Originally posted by smiley
    a year? what they hell were they doing to it?


    it's not as bad as it sounds...

    long story short...

    my engine blew up while I was living in CA... a buddy of mine had just recently opened up an LSX shop. I was in the middle of moving to AZ. So I just left the car at his shop for about 7 months while he worked on the new engine/mods (not in any hurry since I was outa state) and I drove back to CA from AZ to pick up the car. Well, had it for about 2-3 weeks, then the transmission started acting up. So...... I brought it back to him so he could start tearing it apart and upgrading parts in it as well (hence the additional months = nearly a year)

    so, in the end, I have basically a new drivetrain in the car now, with A LOT more power than I was used to before, and it now gets about 15mpg's

    that's ok though... I got the stang for my DD/Beater... The TA will now just be a fun weekend car for shows/meets etc...

    and I can piddle around with it when I get time/money
    Last edited by Soul TKR; 06-11-2008 at 12:50 PM.

  54. #54
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    Originally posted by zombie5011
    I think I like that small hole alot better than a big one...
    Everyone likes a small hole better than a big one.

  55. #55
    At least they look fast CSX's Avatar

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    Wow, I hadn't realized it'd been so long since I had done this mod.

    Well I'm happy to report that in 4 years and 50k miles after having relocated the wires underneath the fender, I have yet to ever have a problem.

    Out of curiosity, does anyone know what major components of the car, if any, that these wires control? After seeing this thread, I kind of want to pull the fender cover off and check all of the wires for continuity, just to make sure that they haven't come apart or anything after all this time. I haven't noticed anything not working in that timeframe, but better safe than sorry I suppose.

    Finally, has anyone ever seen a good write-up on how to relocate the hood-latch cable underneath the driver side fender?

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