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Thread: ****Induction Guide****

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    Post Newbie Mod Guide: Induction and Exhaust

    Preface:

    The LS1 like any other engine works as a system, treat is as one, you want to get as much air in and out as you can. The plethora of mods out there will allow you to do that. Things to consider before you start on your modding process:

    1) There is no "best" part when it comes to mods.
    2) When you want to start modding your car come up with a tangible plan.
    3) Do not go into modding blindly; you will end up wasting money, time, and effort.
    4) Do your research before you buy mods.
    5) Find out your states/counties emissions requirements before choosing mods
    6) Be realistic on what your going to do with your car
    7) Usable power under the curve is what you want to shoot for, do not just look at peak gains
    8) Work within your budget
    9) If your are still under warranty Contact your own dealership and discuss your warranty and modding issues.
    10) Work on matching your parts well, meaning:

    - do not buy 2500+ stage 3 heads that flow 330cfm@.600 if you have a stock cam or very low duration/lift cam (i.e tr220)
    - LSX intake and 90mm TB for a basic bolt on car
    - dont run 230+ cams on stock manifolds or shorties
    - dont run a big cam and a small stall (i.e tsp231 and a vig 2200)
    - dont over/under gear your car (i.e tr230, a4, 2.73's)



    (Credit given where applicable. Info/pics taken from personal experience, around the Internet, and ls1tech/ls1.com)



    I. Intake

    A. Lids:

    What they are:


    What they do: increase airflow and thus horse power


    What to look for: a lid is a lid is a lid. They will all net you the same horsepower. Pick your lid based on looks and price.

    - 00+ cars will need to use an air breather which is required for lids that do not that the provision on the lid. Air breathers can be had from a variety of sponsors.


    How to install: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...id_install.htm


    B. Filters:


    What they are:


    What they do: larger surface area increases airflow and thus more power.


    What to look for: k&n/powershot filters have shown little gains on the ls1; there retaining quality is the ability to clean them and re-use them


    How to install: if you canít figure it out sell your car


    C. Bellows:


    What they are: slp fernco bakerhose airflow system


    What they do: straighten out the airflow


    What to look for: an appearance mod. Chalk it up to the every little bit helps category in terms of "performance". Fernco can be bought at your local home depot or Lowes. The size you want is 3"x3", it is in the plumbing department.

    How to install: see filter installation

    - Tips: if buying a ferco, bakerhose, airflow systems bellow cutting and fitting may be required. Heat up the tubing in the microwave to soften up the material for easier cutting and fitting. It will also prevent the stiff bellow from cracking or loosening up your lid.

    - Pretty good deal here...

    Less than $6 for a smooth bellows.

    Step one: Go to home depot and buy a 3"x3" Fernco rubber coupling.. It should be around $5-6.



    Then Proceed to remove all clamps and labeling, and put it in boiling water for about 10 minutes to soften the rubber. After softening, trim approximately 1/4" to 1/2" off of ONE side of the coupling to make a better fit.



    After you've trimmed it and are satisfied with it, put it back in the hot water for 5-10 minutes. Otherwise you'll have trouble getting one end over the throttle body.





    I did this, because I originally had my nitrous nozzle in the bellows, and now i'm spraying in the airbox.

    Hope this helps someone, because it took me almost an hour to put it all together (the info) The job only takes about 15 minutes.

    Matt (Ole1830)

    D. Maf:


    What they are:


    Be very careful when selecting an aftermarket MAF. The reason being is this: a MAF is calibrated at the factory assuming a specific density and air stream around the anemometer. If you remove the screen (therefore eliminating the uniform air flow the stock calibration is dependent upon) and/or port/gut the internals, you're changing the specific density for which the meter was originally calibrated. This typically causes lean conditions, and other driving issues (which is why the screenless MAFs are recommended for 'offroad' use only). When you make changes to the meter, you're effectively changing the transfer function (the "MAF table" in your ECU) in an uncalculatable way. In order to modify the meter, you must know the resulting transfer function so you can input it into the ECU. Without doing so, load calculations and fuel trims will be thrown off; how badly depending on how far from stock the meter has been modified.

    What to look for: PORT/SWAP/DE-SCREEN AT YOUR OWN RISK. The stock maf is good for 500hp. If by chance your maxing out your MAF contact your tuner and see what he/she recommends. There are ways to 'tune around' a pegged meter, if you're not pushing the envelope too far. But, should you decide to buy a modified aftermarket meter make sure it was recalibrated for the changes made. A recalibrated meter should come with a flow sheet to verify the new calibration data, and allow for the calculation of a new transfer function.

    How to install: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins.../mafh_swap.htm

    E. TB:

    What they are:


    What they do: increase airflow


    What to look for: look into shaner (s2/s3), bauer, and jantzer. They all make great ported throttle bodies.
    - The '98-'99 F-body throttle bodies have a smaller cam compared to the '00-'02 F-body TB's
    - The smaller radius throttle cam opens the throttle plate faster


    How to install: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ar/tb_swap.htm


    F. Intake Manifold:


    What they are: SLP Ls6 w/ egr provision Holley LSX


    What to look for: the ls6 intake will serve a great majority of setups. All 01-02 cars already have an ls6 intake. If you have a 98-00 and want to do an ls6 swap you'll need the new ls6 coolant tubes and plugs. If you have a stroker or are the kind of person who wants all the horsepower they can get look into the lsx (78mm for stock cubes, 90mm for strokers).

    - LSX dyno results.

    - The Ls6 intake has many different part numbers buts its the same intake

    - The only way to tell 100% if you are buying an ls6 intake, especially used is to ask for pics of the bottom. The vette LS1 intake does not have an EGR provision so its easy to pass that off as an LS6 if you are none the wiser. The difference between the LS1 and LS6 intakes can be see here; the ls1 intake is on the left and the ls6 is on the right.


    How to install: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5


    G. CAI


    What they are: FTRA SSRA BGRA


    What they do: take in cold air from the bottom/front of the car


    What to look for: fast toys ram air (FTRA) and super sucker ram air (SSRA) are to very popular choices. BGRA is an option for you ws6 hood guys. Either option you choice you'll want the air box sealed.


    How to install: follow the provided instructions that come with the setup.


    H. FIPK:


    What they are:


    What they do: same effect as the lid.


    What to look for: a ws6 hood or slp z hood with functionality is bests suited for maximum airflow.


    How to install: see CAI install.
    Last edited by jrp; 02-24-2004 at 03:07 PM.

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