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Thread: Removing DOD hardware & fitting a larger camshaft

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Dime View Post
    on a 07 5.3 LH6,was wondering if the part numbers,and so on would be the same on the 5.3 58x engine.
    Yes on timing and valvetrain components.
    No on head gaskets.
    Unsure on valley cover.(There's something about the oil sender boss at the back and the PCV foul air tube at the front....you'll need to check clearance with your intake manifold, maybe that was only a problem with earlier LH6's).


    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Dime View Post
    One thing i cant understand is the cam sprocket,so if i go with 12586481,i can use any LS 3 bolt cam?
    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Dime View Post
    And changeing the chain dampner to black,do i still use my stock chain?
    Yes. The brown/yellow tensioner attempted to always keep the chain taut, whereas the black damper doesn't have 100% contact.
    The black damper is really only there to stop chain whip, which is what has been breaking the brown/yellow tensioners and chains.
    When you change to the black damper the stock chain will appear to be a little loose....but that's normal.

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    THANK YOU !
    Very greatfull for the information.
    Last edited by Blue Dime; 10-19-2010 at 07:04 AM. Reason: a question about something already posted

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    So I'm confused, cause I already started to buy the parts needed, but let's say that I have all the parts needed to remove dod, do I need to change the oil pump or not? If I leave the original on, I'm I going to have problems in the future? Thanks...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xtreme_lyb View Post
    I'm I going to have problems in the future? Thanks...
    If you keep the high volume oil pump and continue to use the high volume oil pan that came stock on the engine you'll be fine. Engine swap guys who change oilpans need to be alert though.

  5. #65
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    Great info here.

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    I realize its been a long time,but i still contribute my success to this thread Thankyou again

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    Thumbs up

    Wow!!! It looks like it was worth the wait. Nice to see a carbed LS engine too. Nice job.

    .... and Great thread.

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    i have question about this deal. i have installed all the parts speced out in the dod delete setup listed here. but i'm worried about the timing chain. i have the 3bolt gear with the black ls2 damper. but left the original chain since the eng. only hay 11k on it. but there seems to be a bunch of slack in the chain. do i need a different chain? or are they run that loose?

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    They do run looser than you'd expect. It's normal.

    The yellow/brown tensioner contacts the chain and puts tension on it, but those tensioners break in service and allow the chain to whip around....which is what breaks the chain.
    The older style black damper does not contact the chain, except for when it starts to whip. The black damper is more likely to stop chains from breaking because it's more sturdy and likely to be in one piece when you need it to be.

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    thanks for the help. it had me nervous but after searching a lttle iot seems to be the norm.

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    5.3 lgm carb swap

    Hey I to am new to this fourm, I just bought a 5.3 lmg from a 2008 gme serria, im putting the engine in my 89 camaro, and from what i can tell reading on the fourms is that will need new lifters, push rods, and a ls2 valley tray, and lifter buckets? i'm going with a carbureted set up with comp cam 54-600-11 cam shaft, I already got my k-member notched, oil pan cut 2" and new motor mounts made, is there anything you guys can tell me what i need to make this swap, list of parts,info anything that will make this go as smooth as possible/ thank you guys.

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    why are you drilling holes in the lifter buckets?

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    Quote Originally Posted by camarozz383 View Post
    Hey I to am new to this fourm, I just bought a 5.3 lmg from a 2008 gme serria, im putting the engine in my 89 camaro, and from what i can tell reading on the fourms is that will need new lifters, push rods, and a ls2 valley tray, and lifter buckets? i'm going with a carbureted set up with comp cam 54-600-11 cam shaft, I already got my k-member notched, oil pan cut 2" and new motor mounts made, is there anything you guys can tell me what i need to make this swap, list of parts,info anything that will make this go as smooth as possible/ thank you guys.
    I see you found your way

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    Quote Originally Posted by camarozz383 View Post
    I just bought a 5.3 lmg from a 2008 gme serria, im putting the engine in my 89 camaro, and from what i can tell reading on the fourms is that will need new lifters, push rods, and a ls2 valley tray, and lifter buckets? list of parts,info anything that will make this go as smooth as possible/ thank you guys.
    Yes you need 4 new lifter buckets because AFM lifter buckets are keyed to the AFM lifters.




    Some parts houses have AFM delete kits available.

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    Quote Originally Posted by camarozz383 View Post
    why are you drilling holes in the lifter buckets?
    Only some people do this, it's to speed up oil drainback to the pan. It's really only going to be a concern if you have a smallish volume oilpan and don't want a quart of oil sitting in your lifter buckets, where the oilpump can't make use of it.
    The risk is the drilling may allow the lifter bucket to crack or spread over time.
    Lifter bucket then won't be as adequate in preventing lifter from turning sideways on the cam.

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    more questions!!

    hey ok i got the parts needed to do the swap, but one question is do i have to dril and tap the holes for the lifter oiling gallies? and what is the point for doing this? can i just use o rings on the LS2 valley cover? thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by camarozz383 View Post
    but one question is do i have to dril and tap the holes for the lifter oiling gallies?
    NO.
    Quote Originally Posted by camarozz383 View Post
    and what is the point for doing this?
    It's little more than SOME engine builders not trusting 8 small O Rings.
    Quote Originally Posted by camarozz383 View Post
    can i just use o rings on the LS2 valley cover?
    YES.

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    I am having an issue with my L76 truck and #4 intake DOD lifter Locking and Not unlocking for the 2nd time now.. I fixed it and 2 days later it locked again.... Can I just put LS7 lifters in with out removing the rest of the DOD stuff/cam and turn it off with a programer?

    Thanks, Dave

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    Hi Dave,
    The thing to remember is the AFM camshaft has slightly different lobes for the AFM cylinders. The lift is only 0.004" different but I've read the profile is as well, they did this to compensate for the heavier AFM lifters.
    If you could live with that then:

    You'd need to pull the heads and change the lifters, all 4 lifter trays, head gaskets, head bolts.

    Optional but recommended would be to remove the AFM valley plate (LOMA) and replace with an LS2/LS3 style valley plate. By ridding yourself of the LOMA you simplify the oil path and reduce the areas where hidden seal failures can cause you trouble. As a bonus you also gain a better PCV system.

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    Hello I'm new to the forum and to the LS motors. I just recently purchased a LH6 motor with DOD and I'm getting mixed info about how to best disable/delete it. Is it possible to only change the valley cover to the LS7 cover in order to disable DOD? Or is mandatory to do all the steps in this thread? I'm on a tight budget with my build so I'm just trying keep it as cheap as possible.

    Also are there limited transmission chooses with DOD engines? I've read you can only use a 4L70E with a DOD motor.

    I know these are newbie questions, but any info would be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by MikeJr.; 08-21-2012 at 06:57 AM.

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    There's no advantage in just changing out the valley plate. You can disable the AFM simply by getting it turned off in the tune and leaving all the AFM hardware intact.

    If you wanted to get more performance with reliability then you'd be installing a higher lift camshaft and the main items you want to get rid of are the AFM collapsible lifters....then you're best bet is to remove all the AFM hardware. There's no point re-using the AFM valley plate with 4 oil solenoids in it if they are never going to be used & can potentially create an internal unseen oil diversion away from critical components.

    So far GM have only been able to couple AFM engines to Automatic transmissions. It has nothing to do with gear shifts and everything to do with shudders and vibrations as AFM kicks in and out. The Autos do not transmit vibes thru the car anywhere near as much as a manual trans does.
    6L80E works in Pontiac G8 with L76 AFM engine & Chev Caprice cop cars with L77 AFM engine.
    Find out which auto Camaro use with the L99 AFM engine.

    [AFM is the GM term for DOD.]

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    AFM oil pressure relief valve in the Oil Pan.
    (Even cars without AFM engines can have these fitted as GM try to use one single V8 oilpan for an entire car model. So even if you have an LS3 in a 2010+ Camaro or 2009 Pontiac GXP it's likely there's an AFM relief valve in your oilpan. GM use the same oilpan assembly on AFM engines and non-AFM engines wherever possible).


    Originally the GM AFM relief valve was Part Number 12594579, this was superceded in June 2006 by the new current Part Number 12608835.
    The valve has a diameter of 19mm and has a hexagonal 17mm AF section at the top.
    Underhead length is 14mm with only 11.5mm of it being threaded, the lower 2.5mm has no thread.
    The thread is M14 x 1.50mm










    A suitable plug IMO would be the Dorman Auto Grade Oil-Tite Drain Plug Part No 65386.
    This plug comes with a copper crush washer to seal the thread.
    65386 thread is M14 x 1.50
    Hex head is 19mm AF
    Underhead length is 12.3mm (you lose about 1.5mm of thread engagement due to the thickness of the copper crush washer, so the 65386 will still utilise the approx 11 mm depth of thread as the original valve).

    Dorman 65386
    Last edited by HSV-GTS-300; 09-12-2012 at 10:15 AM.

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    L76 knocking

    Hi, I have an Aussie L76 in a 2005 VZ. I'm trying to diagnose an internal knocking that I suspect is oil or valvetrain related. You seem to know a lot about them and I wondered if you knew of lifter/pump failures in this engine. I don't know which lifters are in it, but it has the DOD valley plate. She's one of Holdens prototypes for pursuit, and has no AFM badge so I doubt AFM is activated. I appreciate all I have already learned from this page and would like to thank the contributors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Micah327 View Post
    Hi, I have an Aussie L76 in a 2005 VZ. I'm trying to diagnose an internal knocking that I suspect is oil or valvetrain related. You seem to know a lot about them and I wondered if you knew of lifter/pump failures in this engine. I don't know which lifters are in it, but it has the DOD valley plate. She's one of Holdens prototypes for pursuit, and has no AFM badge so I doubt AFM is activated. I appreciate all I have already learned from this page and would like to thank the contributors.
    It must be a very late 2005 to have an L76, but lots of weird things were happening with prototypes around that era. If you've got the AFM valley plate then you've got 8 AFM lifters & 8 normal LS lifters fitted. There's been 3 different versions of AFM lifter used and yours would be the earliest design.
    Because the AFM lifter is basically a mini lifter inside an outer sleeve the oil volume inside is less than ideal. Designers have been battling leakdown rates to reduce cold start lifter tick and other issues.
    Yes there have been lifter failures and oilpump failures from Day1 with the AFM engines. Early AFM oilpumps (mainly in L92) had clearance and seizure issues, it's difficult to say which version of oilpump would have been fitted to your very early L76. If you do have an AFM oilpump then in a VZ you're flirting with danger because the AFM pumps flow about 25% more volume than the standard pump....with the relatively low volume (6 litre) oil system and the front sump in VZ under certain conditions the AFM oilpump can have starvation issues.

    There's next to no chance AFM was ever enabled in your prototype VZ, check the connector in the centre rear of the AFM valley plate. No harness means it's never going to work.


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    Cheers. I've picked up what I need to test the oil pressure and start the hands on diagnosis. DOD plate isn't plugged into harness. If it is the pump can I use LS2 std vol/std press one before I get around to removing DOD hardware? Maybe just leave the relief valve until after DOD removed to be on the safe side. This thread is allot to take in all at once, maybe there's a reference I have forgotten. Makes sense, I shouldn't need extra vol?, and I haven't found anyone selling a special pump for L76 online in Australia. I hadn't planned to change the cam yet as I like how she drives with police spec mapping, and I suspect theTq Converter has been physically modified (much less washing, not designed for comfort or burnouts, just putting power to the road hard) making cam selection a little more involving. Sounds like it's worth speeding up the process just to remove potential dramas with DOD system.
    Last edited by Micah327; 11-01-2012 at 06:57 AM.

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    Technically all the VE's should have been running the standard volume oilpump up until late 2009 when AFM hardware and software were utilised together...in Auto trans VE's with AFM badges.
    However the L76 in your 2005 era prototype VZ could have an early AFM high volume pump...likely the same as the USA L92's used.

    Personally I wouldn't change out the current oilpump until you rid the engine of AFM camshaft, AFM valley plate, AFM lifters.
    Firstly because it would mean opening up the front of the engine twice & disturbing seals more often than you need to.
    Secondly because there's been a few people recently who have tried half-assing the AFM delete process.....running all normal LS lifters with AFM cam and AFM valley plate & ending up with low oil pressure & a noisy engine.
    If it is a high volume AFM oilpump you have there I'd keep it together with the AFM lifters, AFM valley plate, AFM camshaft. Let them all work together in the engine or all rest in peace in the recyling bin.

    People have already tried running the AFM camshaft in an (AFM hardware deleted) engine and that does not work either. You'll strike problems with low oil pressure and possibly low dynamic compression in 4 of the cylinders if you try.
    Best advice for a camshaft very similar (but non-AFM) would be the L98 camshaft GM#12625439 already used by Holden in most 2007-2009 VE's.
    [You can find them new in USA for 1/3 the price Holden are asking].
    If you wanted a mild upgrade an LS2 or LS3 camshaft would also give you reliability but with added punch. LS2 camshaft 12593206. LS3 camshaft 12623063. 16x LS3 valvesprings 12625033 for $100 ex USA.

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    Cheers for those cam part numbers, was looking for exactly those 3. Best I found without being able to read specs was Lunati's smallest listed. More trouble fitting 2nd oil press sensor than I thought. Local auto sparky came through for me. Fire her up tonight and check my oil pressure. Dread what I will find, pump, lifter or other really nasty, but, I tell myself, unlikely possibilities.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Awesome stroke of luck for the sparky to have that fitting laying around.
    I make them up with a banjo swivel so the side outlet can point anywhere you want.



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    Yeah that's a beut alright. I had to prefit, mark, drill and tap the side port.
    Last edited by Micah327; 11-02-2012 at 07:22 PM. Reason: editing out the unuseful

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    Quote Originally Posted by Micah327 View Post
    Local sparky does gauge work for the walkinhaw place down the road.
    I don't see hair gel all over it so maybe it's a different Walkinshaw distributor to my local one. Owner offers a free kickboxing lesson to anyone who disagrees with him.

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    Naah it has to be the same place.
    <----Postcode 6164.

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    Oil pressure peaking to about 25psi while cranking. I'm still confident that, although it can be very very bad, it doesn't fit the symptoms of crank related damage. Certainly puts the Damn AFM system in the spotlight...... I remember from earlier in this thread that pumps can fail then start again, maybe lifters too. Still, it's tempting just get rid of the AFM system and put in that Lunati cam....... According to them at least, it's the high torque, good midrange, responsive grind for LS6, and many LS2 share the same cam. Hopefully it will bog down less on my gearbox......Fired her up, noisy as hell. Good oil pressure though, flashed up to about 40, then dropped to 20 at an idle......... It's got worse sitting while I diagnose her, could be very informative, definitely not what I'd expect of big end/crank.... Can't see it having that much pressure if there's a leak a foot from the sender under the AFM plate..... I'm not a mechanic, but I'm not to bad at peicing things together. I think that almost rules out anything other than the lifters, push rods and AFM solenoids .....unless there are suggestions?
    Last edited by Micah327; 11-04-2012 at 01:07 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Micah327 View Post
    I'm not a mechanic, but I'm not to bad at peicing things together. I think that almost rules out anything other than the lifters, push rods and AFM solenoids .....unless there are suggestions?
    Best suggestion I can offer is to get the largest screwdriver you can find, about 2 feet long is good. Put the blunt end in your ear and place the sharp end at various places around the block. You'll soon get the hang of it and narrow down where the noises are most evident.
    Best place to hear lifters is in the valley, between each injector and the valve cover....there's a thin strip of cylinder head available on each side of the engine. Run the blade of the screwdriver back and forth along that strip listening adjacent to each injector.

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    You weren't wrong about ordering from the states. Didn't expect to find LS2 valley plate for under $100. Can get LS3 cam and all parts for less than the $370 Lunati wants for just the cam, looks alot better than the LS3 one though. Been looking for a good GM supplier in the states. GM parts dept. won't post to Aust. Found one cheaper but wants money order and that makes me suspicious. Any suggestions?
    Last edited by Micah327; 11-06-2012 at 07:52 AM.

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    Yes I know the story....I've been using a place I can recommend. I've got a Lunati order being filled right now and the same place ships all the GM parts I need. Send me a Private Message or an e-mail and I'll guide you thru it.
    I've also got a couple AFM delete kits here locally, we could pull parts from, if you fuck up and forget to order something from USA yourself.

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    Hi, I know this is an old thread but as many have said there is so much good info here. I have a L76 / L98 cross (dont ask) it has not been running since the mix of parts, it was from a 2008 VE auto ute but has had some part swaps with a crate motor. My only issue is when I strip it down to sort out the DODs stuff is there a way to identify what cam it has ie DOD or NON DOD

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    Quote Originally Posted by Free24x4 View Post
    is there a way to identify what cam it has ie DOD or NON DOD
    Yeppers.
    See the green arrow....only AFM (DOD) cams will have this oiling groove.


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    Unbelievable, here I was thinking this has going to be difficult & you have nailed it in one

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    Quote Originally Posted by Free24x4 View Post
    Unbelievable, here I was thinking this has going to be difficult & you have nailed it in one
    We could have also done it by measuring lobe lifts but it's much easier to look for a fucking big groove.

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    Yep you've got that right. One more question - I understand this L98 / L76 has an LS3 inlet manifold from standard 102mm ? bore but what is the standard size throttle body it should have fitted 90mm? what if I fit a 102?

    Thanks for all your great help

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    The 2008 VE engine may have had the original L76 90mm intake manifold, soon after they changed to the LS3 which was almost identical and still 90mm. Half way along the right hand side between the central pair of injectors, you'll see the intake manifold part number and the firing order.
    L76-#12590124
    LS3-#12602477
    Unless you've got a big cube stroker or a really wild camshaft anything larger than 90mm will not be required. Make the 102mm gear the last 10hp you're chasing and not the first.
    Last edited by HSV-GTS-300; 02-04-2013 at 02:12 AM.

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    HSV-GTS-300, Thank you for this write up! Saved me a ton of headaches and was my go to spot.

    I took this thread and started in on my L76 DOD removal. I went through Texas Speed and Performance for the kit. Its in a 2007 GMC Sierra. I got the whole kit installed and the truck runs bad. Idle is rough. I started researching a bit and yes, you have to change the camshaft in this truck. Compression is low on the DOD cylinders. I started researching all that and found quite a few guys with the same problem.

    So now I'm on the hunt for a new camshaft. I think the cheapest and easiest way is to grab an LS2 or LS3 camshaft and throw in there. But I have one concern with this approach. If I do this, it disables to VVT system. Will the truck continue to throw CEL because of this?

    What really pisses me off about all of it is that when I asked Texas Speed if I needed a new cam they said no. The reason it makes me mad is that I had the front of the motor apart to replace the tensioner...all I had to do right then was slide the cam out and a new one back in.

    Anyways...could you give me your opinion? Keep the VVT and buy a $400 dollar cam or find a used LS cam for $150 and remove the VVT? I just don't want to keep throwing CEL because of the VVT.

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    Just to be clear, there's a Gen4 car engine called L76 and a quite different Gen4 truck engine called L76. The Vortec truck 6.0 L76 has VVT while the car L76 does not.
    Yes I've seen the battles going on between owners and performance shops with regard to which pieces work together or not.
    Above you'll see a pic of an AFM camshaft with a large oiling groove in it. It's my uneducated opinion that if you have 16 normal LS lifters fitted you should not use an AFM camshaft or the AFM valley plate.
    The lack of compression in the 4 AFM cylinders has been reported before when a mix of AFM and non-AFM parts were installed together.

    Your VVT requires oil pressure to function, and the oil supply to the phaser comes thru oil passages in the front section of the AFM camshaft. As soon as you change to a normal LS camshaft you immediately lose VVT function.

    There's another kit some performance shops provide which deletes VVT. It will be a new LS style front timing cover, new solid central cam bolt, maybe a new cam gear. Not much added expense to go a little further and delete the VVT hardware.

    Also you'll need to throw a tune into it straight after you've deleted all the AFM hardware. Even just deleting the Displacement on Demand lifters requires an immediate tune.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Code510 View Post
    Anyways...could you give me your opinion? Keep the VVT and buy a $400 dollar cam or find a used LS cam for $150 and remove the VVT? I just don't want to keep throwing CEL because of the VVT.
    Delete VVT hardware.
    Delete or turn off all AFM software in the tune.
    Buy a new LS3 camshaft 12623063 for less than $150.
    You'll also need better than your stock L76 valve springs, LS3 springs will do.
    16 x 12625033 = $105
    Last edited by HSV-GTS-300; 06-10-2013 at 07:23 AM.

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    You are the man.

    Well I was able to acquire an L92 Cam, which does have the VVT, but not the AFM. Will this L76 truck engine still use the VVT then? Will using that cam kill it still?

    I do have a Diablo i-1000 tuner, so I already have the DOD tuned out. But I didn't see an option to tune out the VVT. That's parts of my thinking for just keeping the VVT, so I don't have any CEL issues.

    Thanks again! Still pretty confused on all this, but trying to research it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Code510 View Post
    Well I was able to acquire an L92 Cam, which does have the VVT, but not the AFM. Will this L76 truck engine still use the VVT then? Will using that cam kill it still?
    IMO by using the L92 cam you're right back where you were when you tried using the stock L76 AFM cam, in conjunction with your 16 normal LS lifters.

    Blocks which use the collapsible AFM lifters have additional oil passage drillings going down into the locations of the 8 AFM lifters. Your L76 block has these oil passages, L92/LS2/LS3 does not.
    L92 engine can have the large oiling groove in the front of the camshaft and still use 16 normal lifters because it does not have the extra oil passages drilled thru to the lifter area (for displacement on demand).

    It's my belief that your initial problem with lack of compression on the AFM cylinders has to do with oil from the front camshaft groove passing down the drilled passages in your L76 block (for AFM) & acting upon the normal (non-AFM) lifters that you swapped into the L76 block.
    ***GM do not normally have non-AFM lifters in place where the AFM oil passages are fully opened to (activation/deactivation) oil pressure passages.

    8x activation/de-activation Oil Passages open to lifters....drilled thru on displacement on demand blocks.


    Oil supply groove, only on displacement on demand and VVT blocks.


    Active/De-Active Oil Passages




    2 x Normal LS lifters & 2 x Displacement on Demand (Active-DeActive) lifters

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    I may have some of the oil passage science wrong but the core issue is mixing AFM and non-AFM components together in a particular combination that GM have never used on anything in production.
    There's AFM blocks, AFM camshafts, AFM lifters, AFM lifter oil manifold assemblies...all different in some way to the normal non-AFM components.

  48. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by HSV-GTS-300 View Post
    I may have some of the oil passage science wrong but the core issue is mixing AFM and non-AFM components together in a particular combination that GM have never used on anything in production.
    There's AFM blocks, AFM camshafts, AFM lifters, AFM lifter oil manifold assemblies...all different in some way to the normal non-AFM components.
    Well I did replace the AFM lifters and oil manifold.

    I read on a few different forums that a few guys had this exact problem after removing AFM, they replaced the cam with a non AFM cam and they were good to go. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and hope thats the case for me!

    Thanks again for all your help. You are an LS god!

  49. #109
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    great information
    need a little myself
    situation is that,
    placing a L76 in a 1952 chevy fleetline with an art Morrison chassis
    need to use a f-body oil pan (5.5 qts.) versus stock (8 qts.)
    can I electrically disable DOD, and what oil issues could I face
    pressure, flow, foaming.
    I know more oil is retained in oil galley so with only 5.5 qts in pan can this leed to oil issues.There is a difference in the amount of oil pumped between a L765 versus a LS2

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjfiore View Post
    can I electrically disable DOD,
    Yes HP Tuners can switch it off.

    Quote Originally Posted by sjfiore View Post
    need to use a f-body oil pan (5.5 qts.) versus stock (8 qts.)
    what oil issues could I face pressure, flow, foaming.
    I know more oil is retained in oil galley so with only 5.5 qts in pan can this leed to oil issues.There is a difference in the amount of oil pumped between a L765 versus a LS2
    L76 (AFM) oil pump will suck 20% more oil volume per engine revolution than LS2 oil pump. That's one of the reasons AFM engines have larger oilpans.
    Change the oil pump to a standard volume = LS2 oilpump if using anything smaller than 8 quart pan.
    The danger with a smaller volume pan is the AFM oil pump pumping all the available oil out of the pan faster than it can run back down. This situation is worsened if you start flinging the oil away from the pump suction and at high rpm....eg: slalom or road course events or nose of the car facing downhill.
    Oil starvation and foaming issues are very possible.

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    Ok, now to make the required changes.
    1. To use 98-02 f-body oil pan need to change oil pump to an LS2 pump ( lower flow )
    --what other mods will be required, ie oil return in oil galley, relief valve etc.
    Is there a one stop place containing all the information needed to make a non-DOD L76 from a 09 pontiac G8 GT L76 using a F- body oil pan. Got " how to install an LS in anything " and it was not much help for this type of work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjfiore View Post
    To use 98-02 f-body oil pan need to change oil pump to an LS2 pump ( lower flow )
    Standard volume oil pump. 12586665
    Pickup tube O Ring to suit Fbody pickup tube.
    Fbody pickup tube
    Fbody Oilpan
    Fbody windage tray
    Fbody dipstick tube
    Fbody dipstick

    Quote Originally Posted by sjfiore View Post
    --what other mods will be required, ie oil return in oil galley, relief valve etc.
    LS1 Fbody pan will bolt straight on.
    You already have a spring loaded pressure relief valve inside your new oil pump, plus all good oil filters have a relief function built inside them in case of blockage. The original L76 oilpan had it's own AFM pressure relief valve inside the pan in the rear left corner. Toss it with the oilpan.

    Quote Originally Posted by sjfiore View Post
    Is there a one stop place containing all the information needed to make a non-DOD L76 from a 09 pontiac G8 GT L76 using a F- body oil pan. Got " how to install an LS in anything " and it was not much help for this type of work.
    a) Match the oilpan required to the cars K frame & steering rack position.
    b) Match the oil pump required to the oilpan volume. (no high volume pump with low volume pan)
    c) Use all the oilpan accessories that match the oilpan.

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    I have an LH6 in my 05 Rainier and I am hoping you guys may be able to help me out. I realize many of you are removing your DoD hardware, but I'd like to incorporate it into my truck. The engine is DoD ready(supposedly), but GM did not utilize that functionality on the Rainier/9-7x/Envoy. I have an E40 controller with DoD function. I have an empty connector on the back of the VLOM which is for the DoD function. Anyone know what connector type/style that is? Also anyone have information on wiring it up properly to the e40 controller?

    Thanks in advance!

    Great info here btw.

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    HSV-GTS-300!

    Sorry its me again, don't mean to bug yah.

    Hope you don't mind me asking a few more questions. I got the engine back together using the L92 cam and you were correct, ran the same. The engine ran good off idle, but had a very rough idle. Also, the engine has really low oil pressure. Roughly 10PSI per 1K RPM.

    Just to recap: I did the LS2 lifter valley plate, LS7 lifters, LS2 timing gear tensioner. I bought the Texas-Speed and Performance kit. Put the L92 Camshaft in there.

    So right now I'm trying to find out once and for all what's going on. Sounds like the engine needs a rebuild. I was thinking maybe the low oil pressure had to do with the mixing of parts, but re-reading through this build thread a few times it sounds like that's not the case.

    I guess right now I just want to rebuild it and have it run great again using the VVT, but not the DOD. Make it bullet proof basically. Can you give me some advice?

    Should I just get an LS2 cam, new timing chain, new timing chain gear, new timing chain cover(eliminating the VVT) and just have an LS2, L76? Or should I just put back in all the DOD stuff and call it a day? I've tried calling Texas Speed, Comp cams, and a few others and they all don't know, they only know about their products. I'm OK with buying a different cam, but just want to make sure that will fix my problems.

    Thanks again!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Code510 View Post
    Hope you don't mind me asking a few more questions. I got the engine back together using the L92 cam and you were correct, ran the same. The engine ran good off idle, but had a very rough idle. Also, the engine has really low oil pressure. Roughly 10PSI per 1K RPM.
    Just to recap: I did the LS2 lifter valley plate, LS7 lifters, LS2 timing gear tensioner. I bought the Texas-Speed and Performance kit. Put the L92 Camshaft in there.
    Yes I think I said not to fuck around with AFM camshaft (eg L92) on non-AFM lifters.

    Quote Originally Posted by Code510 View Post
    Should I just get an LS2 cam, new timing chain, new timing chain gear, new timing chain cover(eliminating the VVT) and just have an LS2, L76? Or should I just put back in all the DOD stuff and call it a day?
    Dump all the VVT and AFM hardware.
    Make sure you have the 8 small O'rings fitted under the new non-AFM valley plate.
    Fit an LS2 or LS3 cam & suitable valve springs.
    Immediate tune to eliminate all AFM & VVT functions.

  56. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by HSV-GTS-300 View Post
    Yes I think I said not to fuck around with AFM camshaft (eg L92) on non-AFM lifters.


    Dump all the VVT and AFM hardware.
    Make sure you have the 8 small O'rings fitted under the new non-AFM valley plate.
    Fit an LS2 or LS3 cam & suitable valve springs.
    Immediate tune to eliminate all AFM & VVT functions.
    Yah you did. But at the point I was out of $$$ so I had to run it. Trying to fix it for good now.

    Taking your advice to a T this time. Thank you again!!!

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    This info is amazing! I am new to this forum and this page gave me exactly the info i was looking for. I recently purchased a 69 camaro that I planned to do a ls2 swap in. Long story short I manage a salvage yard and we recently had a g8 come in with the l76 and my boss offered it to me for about $1500 less then he would beable to sell me a ls2 for from a gto. While saving money sounds great I've been hesitant to take the deal due to all the challenges that seem I would have to deal with eliminating the dod and changing lifters and such. My question is do you think it would be worth the savings, to do the conversion? Also we have a few 5.3 cores laying around that I have the ability to grab a few parts from aka lifters, valley cover, and oil pan, that I think I could use? So I would mainly just need a new cam? Hsv-gts-300 your knowledge is incredible! Any info or advice you could offer would greatly help me with this tough decision. Thank you so much in advance!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nova939 View Post
    This info is amazing! I am new to this forum and this page gave me exactly the info i was looking for. I recently purchased a 69 camaro that I planned to do a ls2 swap in. Long story short I manage a salvage yard and we recently had a g8 come in with the l76 and my boss offered it to me for about $1500 less then he would beable to sell me a ls2 for from a gto. While saving money sounds great I've been hesitant to take the deal due to all the challenges that seem I would have to deal with eliminating the dod and changing lifters and such. My question is do you think it would be worth the savings, to do the conversion? Also we have a few 5.3 cores laying around that I have the ability to grab a few parts from aka lifters, valley cover, and oil pan, that I think I could use? So I would mainly just need a new cam? Hsv-gts-300 your knowledge is incredible! Any info or advice you could offer would greatly help me with this tough decision. Thank you so much in advance!
    The $1500 saving is worth it IMO. You'd be getting an engine at least 2 years newer.
    Even if you bought all new AFM delete parts that will only come to $600-650.
    A new set of LS7 lifters is about $150 and new LS3 valley plate is about $125 (both included in the above figure).
    Get new lifters for certain.
    Yes you could scrounge an oil pan/windage tray/dipstick/pickup tube set and a valley plate to save some coin.
    Ensure you dig into your pockets far enough to lash out and buy all new seals/gaskets for the used parts.
    Critically make sure you buy the oil pickup tube Oring to suit the pickup tube & not go by the oil pump or car the oil pump belonged to.

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    i have a question i have a 2008 silverado vortec max with the l79 6.0 i will need follow the same process or is something different i have to follow of do? or diferent parts i need to buy?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gpg1989 View Post
    i have a question i have a 2008 silverado vortec max with the l79 6.0 i will need follow the same process or is something different i have to follow of do? or diferent parts i need to buy?
    According to GM the 2008 Vortec Max is an L76 (truck version) which has both Cylinder De-Activation (AFM) and VVT.
    http://archives.media.gm.com/us/powe...uck/08_L76.doc
    http://archives.media.gm.com/us/powe...0SLV%20LoR.jpg
    http://archives.media.gm.com/us/powe...08/08truck.htm

    Yes you'll have to do things differently to the car L76 because your truck L76 also has VVT.
    I don't know if you can delete the AFM while still keeping the VVT.
    If you want to get rid of both AFM and VVT then that's easy.....there's only about 2 or 3 more parts are required.

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