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Thread: Newbie Mod Guide: Induction and Exhaust

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    Exclamation Newbie Mod Guide: Induction and Exhaust

    Preface:

    The LS1 like any other engine works as a system, treat is as one, you want to get as much air in and out as you can. The plethora of mods out there will allow you to do that. Things to consider before you start on your modding process:

    1) There is no "best" part when it comes to mods.
    2) When you want to start modding your car come up with a tangible plan.
    3) Do not go into modding blindly; you will end up wasting money, time, and effort.
    4) Do your research before you buy mods.
    5) Find out your states/counties emissions requirements before choosing mods
    6) Be realistic on what your going to do with your car
    7) Usable power under the curve is what you want to shoot for, do not just look at peak gains
    8) Work within your budget
    9) If your are still under warranty Contact your own dealership and discuss your warranty and modding issues.
    10) Work on matching your parts well, meaning:

    - do not buy 2500+ stage 3 heads that flow 330cfm@.600 if you have a stock cam or very low duration/lift cam (i.e tr220)
    - LSX intake and 90mm TB for a basic bolt on car
    - dont run 230+ cams on stock manifolds or shorties
    - dont run a big cam and a small stall (i.e tsp231 and a vig 2200)
    - dont over/under gear your car (i.e tr230, a4, 2.73's)



    (Credit given where applicable. Info/pics taken from personal experience, around the Internet, and ls1tech/ls1.com)



    I. Intake

    A. Lids:

    What they are:


    What they do: increase airflow and thus horse power


    What to look for: a lid is a lid is a lid. They will all net you the same horsepower. Pick your lid based on looks and price.

    - 00+ cars will need to use an air breather which is required for lids that do not that the provision on the lid. Air breathers can be had from a variety of sponsors.


    How to install: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...id_install.htm


    B. Filters:


    What they are:


    What they do: larger surface area increases airflow and thus more power.


    What to look for: k&n/powershot filters have shown little gains on the ls1; there retaining quality is the ability to clean them and re-use them


    How to install: if you canít figure it out sell your car


    C. Bellows:


    What they are: slp fernco bakerhose airflow system


    What they do: straighten out the airflow


    What to look for: an appearance mod. Chalk it up to the every little bit helps category in terms of "performance". Fernco can be bought at your local home depot or Lowes. The size you want is 3"x3", it is in the plumbing department.

    How to install: see filter installation

    - Tips: if buying a ferco, bakerhose, airflow systems bellow cutting and fitting may be required. Heat up the tubing in the microwave to soften up the material for easier cutting and fitting. It will also prevent the stiff bellow from cracking or loosening up your lid.

    - Pretty good deal here...

    Less than $6 for a smooth bellows.

    Step one: Go to home depot and buy a 3"x3" Fernco rubber coupling.. It should be around $5-6.



    Then Proceed to remove all clamps and labeling, and put it in boiling water for about 10 minutes to soften the rubber. After softening, trim approximately 1/4" to 1/2" off of ONE side of the coupling to make a better fit.



    After you've trimmed it and are satisfied with it, put it back in the hot water for 5-10 minutes. Otherwise you'll have trouble getting one end over the throttle body.





    I did this, because I originally had my nitrous nozzle in the bellows, and now i'm spraying in the airbox.

    Hope this helps someone, because it took me almost an hour to put it all together (the info) The job only takes about 15 minutes.

    Matt (Ole1830)

    D. Maf:


    What they are:


    Be very careful when selecting an aftermarket MAF. The reason being is this: a MAF is calibrated at the factory assuming a specific density and air stream around the anemometer. If you remove the screen (therefore eliminating the uniform air flow the stock calibration is dependent upon) and/or port/gut the internals, you're changing the specific density for which the meter was originally calibrated. This typically causes lean conditions, and other driving issues (which is why the screenless MAFs are recommended for 'offroad' use only). When you make changes to the meter, you're effectively changing the transfer function (the "MAF table" in your ECU) in an uncalculatable way. In order to modify the meter, you must know the resulting transfer function so you can input it into the ECU. Without doing so, load calculations and fuel trims will be thrown off; how badly depending on how far from stock the meter has been modified.

    What to look for: PORT/SWAP/DE-SCREEN AT YOUR OWN RISK. The stock maf is good for 500hp. If by chance your maxing out your MAF contact your tuner and see what he/she recommends. There are ways to 'tune around' a pegged meter, if you're not pushing the envelope too far. But, should you decide to buy a modified aftermarket meter make sure it was recalibrated for the changes made. A recalibrated meter should come with a flow sheet to verify the new calibration data, and allow for the calculation of a new transfer function.

    How to install: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins.../mafh_swap.htm

    E. TB:

    What they are:


    What they do: increase airflow


    What to look for: look into shaner (s2/s3), bauer, and jantzer. They all make great ported throttle bodies.
    - The '98-'99 F-body throttle bodies have a smaller cam compared to the '00-'02 F-body TB's
    - The smaller radius throttle cam opens the throttle plate faster


    How to install: http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ar/tb_swap.htm


    F. Intake Manifold:


    What they are: SLP Ls6 w/ egr provision Holley LSX


    What to look for: the ls6 intake will serve a great majority of setups. All 01-02 cars already have an ls6 intake. If you have a 98-00 and want to do an ls6 swap you'll need the new ls6 coolant tubes and plugs. If you have a stroker or are the kind of person who wants all the horsepower they can get look into the lsx (78mm for stock cubes, 90mm for strokers).

    - The Ls6 intake has many different part numbers buts its the same intake

    - The only way to tell 100% if you are buying an ls6 intake, especially used is to ask for pics of the bottom. The vette LS1 intake does not have an EGR provision so its easy to pass that off as an LS6 if you are none the wiser. The difference between the LS1 and LS6 intakes can be see here; the ls1 intake is on the left and the ls6 is on the right.


    How to install: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5


    G. CAI


    What they are: FTRA SSRA BGRA


    What they do: take in cold air from the bottom/front of the car


    What to look for: fast toys ram air (FTRA) and super sucker ram air (SSRA) are to very popular choices. BGRA is an option for you ws6 hood guys. Either option you choice you'll want the air box sealed.


    How to install: follow the provided instructions that come with the setup.


    H. FIPK:


    What they are:


    What they do: same effect as the lid.


    What to look for: a ws6 hood or slp z hood with functionality is bests suited for maximum airflow.


    How to install: see CAI install.
    Last edited by jrp; 02-24-2004 at 04:07 PM.

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    II Exhaust

    A. Catbacks

    What they are: Bassani Borla Corsa Hooker Magnaflow Random Tech Loud Mouth LM w/ quad tip center mount SLP Dual/Dual GMMG Mufflex

    What they do: increase exhaust flow and alter sound


    What to look for: depends on what kind of look and sound your going for. The premier ls1 sounds site here. Spend alot of time listening to the setups and hear as many setups in person as you can. Exhaust is subjective, so get what you like best in terms of sound since its you who are going to be driving the car around.

    - Straight through setups like LM and magnaflow (pt# 14267 for just the muffler) are regarded as some of the top flowing catbacks. Flowmaster is one of the worst flowing catbacks for the LS1, it does sound good in its defense. Hooker, Magnaflow, SLP D/D are all great budget cat backs; Corsa, Borla, and GMMG round out the top of the premium spectrum.

    - Loudmouth: LM is a love/hate exhaust, it sounds great on stock manifolds with few bolts on's. When you start adding LT's and ORY's it shows its ugly side. LM + ORY + LT = rasp and drone. Try and listen to various LM setups in person to know what your getting into. Time after time people get LM and end up swapping it out since they get tired of its annoyances. To reduce the rasp and drone you have a few options; install some cats, replace the resonator with a real muffler, or install a 12-18" dynomax bullet. This setup is referred to Dynomouth; Borlamouth is of the same concept but with Borla xr-1 mufflers.

    How to install: Follow the instructions that came with the setup. Some tips:

    - Use pipe cutters or a sawz-all to remove the old exhaust, cut at the over the axel pipe or muffler.
    - A breaker bar comes in very handy, some of those old bolts and clamps are alot harder to get off then you think
    - Use alot of penetrating oil (i.e WD40)

    B. Headers


    What they are: there are 3 styles of headers for the ls1:

    1) Shorties: Easy to install, small power gain
    2) Mid-length: Not too small, but not so long as to scrape if your car is lowered
    3) Long-tube: Biggest and best. Will maximize power as well as exhaust noise

    What they do: allow that great engine of an ls1 breath

    What to look for:

    - Decide which header is right for you. If you want to stay 100% smog legal you'll need to stay with Shorties only and make sure they have a CARB number.

    - If you have an 01-02 car do not bother with shorties. They received a better-designed manifold and flow quite well actually for what they are. You will see minimal gain if any by switching to shorties. If you have a 98-00 car you'll gain some rwhp from shorties but it wont be much either.

    - If you decide on shorties work your other mods around that aspect meaning if you decide for a future cam keep it small (220 duration or smaller).

    - ANY headers besides shorties will require a new Y pipe.

    - Mac Mid-lengths vs LT's. The whole Mid vs LT debate will continue to go on, Iíve learned macs can produce great numbers and are a viable option for alot of people. Mac makes headers for 98-99 and 01-02 cars; if you have an 00 car you will need the EGR pipes from a 98-99 car or you'll need to remove your EGR system.

    - When buying long tubes what you are paying for is fitment, quality, fit and finish. All LT's dyno within the same net gain. Swap from one brand to another for the sole purpose of gains and you'll be disappointed. 1 3/4 sized primaries are more then adequate for stock cubes. If you have a stroker look into some 1 7/8 primaried headers.

    - Buy your headers with some kind of ceramic coating or get stainless steel. If you cant afford coated headers hold off until you can. If your car see's alot of winters (real winters; i.e. east coast and mid west, ect) you might want to seriously consider the stainless steel headers, they are more expensive then ceramic coated headers but the chance of rust will be greatly diminished.

    - If you plan to lower or are lowered then any long tube other then SLP will tuck pretty nicely.

    Long Tubes

    Since Long Tubes are by far the most popular headers they receive the most questions; to a certain extent the old adage of "You get what you pay for" rings true. Info on a few of the more popular choices, not all the long tubes available by no means.

    Pacesetters: Extremely popular due to there price, coated they can be had for under 400 dollars. Quality is very good for what your spending your money on, welds and collector are good. If youíre on a budget and want LT's then Pacesetters should be at the top of your list

    Jet Hot/Hookers: The Hooker and Jet Hot Long Tubes are of the same design, jet hot took the hooker design and improved upon it a bit by moving the o2 bungs on the inside of the headers and they use a thicker tubing and have thicker flanges. Both are great long tubes and will run you 500-600 bucks

    QTP/kooks: Both Kooks and QTP are stainless steel headers, and are generally regarded as the cream of the crop. Quality is top notch and they can be polished for that bling look if you'd like. There only draw back is the price, at 700+ they are not for everyone. If you have the money or are the kind of person who wants the best then kooks or qtp is what you want. As far as kooks vs qtp get whichever one is cheaper.

    SLP: SLP's are the long tube that usually sparks some debate. Alot of newbies are drawn into them because of the hp claims slp makes. But as already stated all LT's dyno within the same range so SLP's claims are moot. From a quality stand point they are a great header; stainless steel and are ceramic coated. There major drawback is installation and there ground clearance, or lack there of. If you plan to lower your car then pass on the SLP's or learn to change your driving style or else you'll endure alot of scrapping. Another drawback is the price as they are 700+. (My personal opinion, if youíre going to spend 700+ on headers then go for the kooks/qtp)

    FLP: At first glance alot of people are turned off on the FLP setup because of the price. What you have to understand is the FLP setup comes as a kit with the ceramic-coated headers, Y pipe, cats, and off road pipes. When you look at it from that perspective itís a great deal and setup. The biggest advance the FLP system has is the ability to swap from cats to off road pipes and vise versa at will. Great for guys who want to run off-road pipes and then need to swap to cats for emissions requirements.

    Others available but not reviewed:
    -Thunder Racing Headers
    -Dynatech
    -Flowtech
    -Stainless Works
    -PPC
    -SuperMaxx
    -TTS

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    How to install: Flat out, install will vary from car to car and from the type of header you choose, some are easier to install then others.

    - Great Pacesetter install guide done by foff667
    - SLP guide (done by bomax if i recall)

    A few install tips:

    - Patience; if after working for several hours without any apparent results take a break. Things often have a way of working out coming back from a fresh start.

    - A breaker bar is your friend.

    - All LT's go in from the bottom.

    - The stock cat bolts will often break, especially on the older 98-99 cars, donít worry about it.

    - Use plenty of penetrating oil on all the cat to manifold bolts.

    - Have a buddy/wife/gf help you out when need be.

    - Remove the oil diverter for a bit more room on the drivers side install.

    - May or may not have to knotch the K-member and floor board clearance (CamaroCain).

    - Steering shaft removal may or may not be required. (For my install I couldnít get the damn thing to budge, so I used a die grinder to grind down the block tab to get the drivers side header to slide up). Heed the warning on the steering shaft before removal.

    - Have all the proper tools before the outset of installation; jack/jack stands and/or ramps, basic hand tools (3/8, 1/2 drive ratchet, 10mm, 12mm, 15mm, ect sockets), hammer. Optional but very handy tools that may or may not be needed; sawz-all, die grinder, 2x4 4x4 pieces of wood and/or some bricks.

    - Get the car as high as safely possible. It's alot higher then you think. (During my own install I had the rear on ramps and the front was propped up with my jack on a 4x4 piece of wood to get the extra clearance need.)

    - Donít think it has to be mentioned but Iíll say it anyway; use safety goggles where applicable and make sure your car is secured on the ramp/jack stands before getting under the car and working on it. Basically donít do any stupid shit

    - Give yourself plenty of time to get the install done; first time around factor in 5-12hrs. Donít worry if it takes you longer, just concentrate on getting it done right and gaining the experience

    - Typical prices a shop will charge for an install are 300-500 dollars depending on location. If you have the time, you owe it to yourself to give the install a shot yourself. Itís not that hard and doesnít require alot of technical knowledge or experience. If you run into trouble during the install come to the boards in a calm and collected manner and you'll get your answer in no time.

    - More Header install tips: (Mark - WAHUSKER)

    I have installed 3 sets of headers on these cars so far (PPCs, FLPs & Pacesetters) and I thoiught I'd share some useful tips that we used.

    - ALL - Remove the steering linkage. It works for all headers. Avoid the nice gouges on the driver's side header, and hours of cursing. Turn the steering wheel first so you can get at both bolts. The bottom one can be challenging....a 12" ext & a wobbly works. Lock the stering wheel & remove the 2 bolts, and yank it off. Removing the bottom bolt completely is required. This will let the driver's side header slip right in!

    - PPCs - The y-pipe is the B on these. Get a BIG rubber mallet, a LARGE set of channel locks, and a can of WD-40. Wiggle, pound spray, & cuss. It will go. The I-pipe will probably be too long & need to be cut.

    - PaceSetters - cut a 2' long piece off the k-member's lip. You'll neeed to hold the header in place to see where the cut is needed. A sawzall, a dremel with a cut-off wheel & a pair of vice grips works very nicely. Cut 2 lines straight in, etch along the k-member with the cut-off wheel, & then bend it back & forth with vice grips or whatever you can grab it with. It should braak right off. Use a grinding wheel on a dremel to touch up the rough edge.

    - FLPs - The worst part about these is the collector & y-pipe clamps. Take the bolts out & spread them apart, put both pipes in & then squeeze them together again with channel locks so you can get the nut started. The I-pipe will probably be too long & need to be cut on these too.

    - AIR Tubes - on the PPCs the stock one work fine. On 01-01 FLPs, go get a passenger side tube off a 2000, and use the existing passenger side for the driver's side. The flange on the header is clocked ~ 90* from the stock poistion. Hold the one you're going to use up to the flange & draw a line on the tube where one of bolt holes is. Do the same for both sides. Then go get the ends cut off, rotated & welded back on. Usually rotating one way or the other will result in a better angle. I think we rotated the pass side CCW & the drivers side CW.

    - EGR Tubes - these are NOT fun to put on. The flange is down by the starter & you cannot reach it with the tube in place. A magnetic socket to hold the bolt & some grease on the gasket to hold it in place worked for me. Along with 4 extensions & 2 wobblies. Took me an hour and every word I knew.

    - ALL - have a Predator handy. It is not unusual to throw a code when you first start the car.


    - Will you need tuning after headers: Every car varies, you wont know until the headers are installed and you've put some miles on the car. Headers usually cause the car to run a bit rich but its nothing stock tune cant handle. If you want full advantage of the new headers then you'll want a tune. Just plan accordingly; if you know your not going to install big mods (h/c) sometime in the near future then Iíd go ahead and get a tune. If you plan for a new cam and/or heads then hold off on tuning for the headers and get a tune once the h/c is installed, it'll save you the time and money of having to tune twice. If you donít want to pay for a full tune you can always pick up a used MAFT (mass air fuel translator) and dial in your A/F ratio a bit.

    - Where to buy:

    1) Pacesetters: TSP (http://www.texas-speed.com) has the best deals on pacesetters.

    2) Kooks: Contact Matt from TTP (http://www.ttperformance.net/) you'll usually get the best deal from him.

    3) Jet hot/hookers: Go to the sponsor forums, every so often there is a GP (group purchase) on jet hots and you can get a great price.

    4) QTP: Contact Brian from QTP (http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/) and see what kind of price he can get you.

    5) FLP: Cruise the sponsor forum and look for anyone offering online discounts; you can usually get 10-15% off the price.

    C. Y-Pipes

    What they are: Jet hot catted/ory SLP stock replacement Y Mufflex Random Tech stock replacement catted Y Pacesetter ORY

    - Catted Y denotes a Y with cats; ORY denotes a Y with no cats

    What they do: Connect the headers to the catback and aid in exhaust flow provided it matches the rest of your system. Meaning keep the diameter relatively consistent, 3" is the most popular, a 2.5" is fine as well and will give you a bit more clearance if your lowered.

    What to look for: Y pipes come in all different shapes and diameters, if you can, get the Y made by the same company that you got your headers from. Meaning if you get the Hooker LT's then get the hooker Y, ect. All Y pipes are not directly swappable. If you wish to use another manufactures Y for your setup you are most likely going to have to modify it to fit.

    -Those looking to get Pacesetters; there Y is a toss up, some people's are "acceptable", others are straight shit. Pace didnít put to much time or development into making a quality Y and it shows in the collector. Your best bet is to go with a custom Y or modify your Pace ORY like Larry did.

    - A custom Y is great since its taylored to your exact setup and will allow you to get the best fitment and clearance. Just pick up a Flowmaster merge collector and cats if you need and have a shop fab up the rest; depending on shop it should run you 100-200 bucks not including parts (i.e. merge collector)

    - Do Not invest in a new Y pipe unless you plan to stick with shorties/stock manifolds, and even at that itís barely worth it since you'll gain practically nothing by a new Y on stock manifolds. If you buy a new Y for stock manifolds/shorties you'll need to replace the Y you just bought if you add LT's or mids in the future.

    - If you need cats for emissions purposes then do not purchase an ORY and then try and weld cats in them, just spring for the catted Y or purchase some cats, flowmaster merge collector and have a shop fab the rest. Alot of ORY's donít have enough room to accommodate cats. If you still want to try it then get the smallest cats you can; slp's or random tech.

    - The '98-'99 Y-pipe won't work on a 2000-2002 because it doesn't have a flange on the passenger side pipe. It has to be welded in place. It took them till the 2000 model year to figure out it might be better to have both sides flanged and secured with bolts. (xtrooper)
    Last edited by jrp; 03-12-2004 at 05:08 PM.

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    D. Duals

    What they are:

    1) X-pipe setups 1 (South FL) 2 3 (DVST8OR) 4 (Y2KSS).
    2) H-Pipe setup: 1 (Lanes)

    What they do: See Y pipe

    What to look for: Your only actual viable option is an X pipe or H pipe. Which is better will always be debated. Most people go with an X pipe, in a nutshell an X-pipe will net you more power and torque and an H-pipe will have a slightly better sound. Both are great, so choose what you like, either is better then a traditional Y setup. Where duals shine is power under the curve.

    - When it comes to duals you have 2 options; dumped before the axel or going all the way out the back. The former is a more popular option because of cost. A complete dual setup dumped should run you 500 bucks or less. If you desire to go out the back it'll cost you, you'll need some custom over the axel work or you can go a cheaper route and go under the axel. Both have there advantages; dumped are very cost effective and have a great hp/$ ratio. However since the exhaust is now exiting under the car; cab noise is more prevalent, you'll notice rattles you never knew you had, and you'll feel the resonance. Duals out the back are more expensive but you'll get the hp and sound of the duals without the little annoyances of the dumped setup. (My advice would be to go with dumps first and see how you like it and whats acceptable to you, if you find the annoyances unbearable you can always complete the duals out the back, just pick up where the dumps left off and go over the axel or under.

    - If you plan for dumps you can go 3" piping all through out. If you are lowered or plan to lower or want duals all the way back go with 2.5", you'll have more ground clearance and more room to allow for going over the axel depending on how you set it up. You can also go 3" up to the X pipe and then reduce to 2.5".

    - Both 2.5" and 3" will support plenty of power, most likely more then you'll ever produce. Choose your piping based on fitment and clearance, not power.

    - When you run duals you'll want an X/H pipe for the scavaging and equalizing effect, you wont get that from straight pipes off of the collector.

    How to install: You have a few options:

    - Have a shop fab up the whole setup for you
    - Buy just an X/H pipe from jegs or summit and mufflers and have a shop fab the rest
    - Buy a Dr. Gas kit and have a shop fab the rest

    E. Cut-outs

    What they are: Flowtech QTP electric cutout
    What they do:

    What to look for: An electric cutout is the best bet, you can be loud when you need/want it to be and quite when you need/want it to be all at the flip of a switch. A standard cut you youíll need to get under the car to cap or uncap it. A cutout is a great mod for cheap horsepower and sound.

    How/Where to install: For an electric cutout follow the wiring guide instructions. For both type of cutouts you'll need to have them welded in. You have a few options of placement. The easiest is the I-pipe as there is plenty of room. You can also run dual cutouts in place of where the cats would be (on a LT' setup). Dual cats and cutouts can be done but the fitment will be very close and you'll need to run some small cats.

    E. Misc/Emissions



    - Gaskets: Stick with the metal gaskets, either new or re-used. Donít bother with the paper gaskets that often come with your headers, you'll just increase the chance of leaks.

    -Header Bolts: Oem bolts are fine, again new or re-used. If you want to spend the money you can get some stage 8 locking bolts, they are not necessary though. Header bolts are only required to be torqued down to 18ft-lb's, which is not alot. Do Not over torque the bolts as you run the risk of stripping the threads on the heads. They are aluminum after all. Torque the bolts from the center out.

    - Clamps: Invest in some good band clamps; they can be had from a variety of sponsors or found at your local parts store. U-bolt clamps are pieces of shit. Another option you have is to flange your system.

    -If youíre using clamps and are still having exhaust leaks try buying some aluminum tape that can be found at Lowes or home depot. Wrap the tape around the collector; whether header or Y pipe, for thicker area for the clamp to seal up too.

    - Cats: Magnaflow/Carsound cats are the best overall option; they flow great and can be had for a great price, especially on ebay.

    1) Youíll want pt# 94106 for a 2.5" inlet/outlet and 94109 for a 3" inlet/out.

    - o2 Extension and Sims: When buying Long tubes you'll need to get 2 o2 extensions to connect the front o2 sensors as the o2 bungs have now been moved so far down the sensor wont reach the connection. Most Y/X/H pipes do not have rear o2 provisions so you'll need to run 2 o2 Sims to prevent an SES light. You can also turn off the codes with edit/hp tuner/predator and bypass the need for the Sims.

    1) DO NOT PUT O2 SIMS ON THE FRONT O2 SENSORS (B1S1) (B2S1). The pcm determines the A/F ratio from the front o2 sensors when it goes into closed loop.


    A. Emission

    1) When buying headers you have the option to buy them with or without emissions provisions. Find out your states/counties emissions standards before buying.

    2) If you know your emissions requirements you can buy whichever setup meets your needs.

    3) If your state only has OBDII testing you may remove your Air and/or EGR setup (only 98-00 cars have EGR). You can purchase the racing headers and get rid of the above systems. As long as you arent throwing any codes you will pass the OBDII test.

    4) If your car has a sniffer/visual test you'll need to decide how you want to play it; either comply with the rules and keep your Air/Egr and purchase the headers with the emissions provisions or try and find a shop that will over look those missing systems.

    5) 9 times out of 10 you will not pass the sniffer test without cats.

    6) Go here (bomax) to remove your Air/Egr.

    7) If you want to swap 98-99 and 00-02 headers around you'll need to remove your Air system or purchases the Air tubes from the year the headers were made for since the 98-99 and 00-02 have different Air tube setup.

    8) It should go without saying but if you want to swap 01-02 headers on your 98-00 you'll need to remove you EGR system.

    9) 00 are an oddball year as the EGR and Air setups are different then the 98-99.

    10) When removing the Air system on the 00+ cars you'll be left with a vacuum hose that you'll need to plug up.

    11) Removing your Air/EGR/rear o2's will set off an SES light but will not effect performance at all.

    12) If you plan to keep your Air system with your LT's you'll want to run Air Restrictor plates (bomax)

  5. #5
    moats & toes
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    To go along with & / or be part of #2 and #3, you should mention that a matched set of parts will net better gains than mismatched parts. Examples: huge cam w/ stock exhaust manifolds. Sheet metal intake w/ stock cam.

    Good work, J.

  6. #6
    Registered Member Blacker's Avatar

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    Nice work, jrp We need that years ago

  7. #7
    Want a piece? :boxer: transam4life's Avatar

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    Wow, great post with tons of info for any newb.

  8. #8
    FML jrp's Avatar

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    thanks guys .

    Feel free to and any things i missed and/or suggestions. I want this to be the thread the newbs go to first so they can answer they own questions and learn.

    i think i'd pull my hair out if i have to answer the same questions over and over like on the other board

  9. #9
    Registered Newbie killer01ws6's Avatar

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    Nice work jpr,
    but we will get the same noob stuff.. LOL

  10. #10
    Too poor to mod Darkhalf's Avatar

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    Way to go Jerami

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    Registered Member

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    please make this a sticky, and make it somehow bigger than everything else so the noobs somehow see it?!

  12. #12
    Registered Member SuprSlow's Avatar

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    Great work Jerami. We just started writing some FAQs on the forum I moderate, and it is difficult and time-consuming work. Looks like you put a ton of effort into this.

  13. #13
    Registered Member 5.7 LS1 SS's Avatar

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    That needs to be a sticky....great post

  14. #14
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    Originally posted by 5.7 LS1 SS
    That needs to be a sticky....great post
    Done.

  15. #15
    moats & toes
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    Originally posted by jrp
    i think i'd pull my hair out if
    If you had any

  16. #16
    Careless Giver EMINENT 1's Avatar

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    Damn. Good write up man!

  17. #17
    It's a BLOOD BATH!!!! QWIKLS1's Avatar

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    Not much else to ask for here..

    Thx for all the hard work in making this site better.

    Matt

  18. #18
    Registered Member

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    WOW great info!

  19. #19
    Registered Newbie Tuffass's Avatar

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    Damn, I got a lot of info from that post... Thanx jrp!

  20. #20
    Registered Member BeachZ's Avatar

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    Wow, ton of work to do this. Great job.

  21. #21
    Registered Member BrutusZ28's Avatar

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    Don't forget that you can use an electric cut out plate with the Borla exhuast.

    With this set up the car can sound very "stock" when the plate is closed, it will also sound different from a regular cut out when open because it's still dumping behind the car as oppose to under it so there is less drone.

  22. #22
    Flawless Member Rob Almighty's Avatar

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    Great write-up, but it's not necessarily true that long-tube headers will make more power than mid-lengths. In fact, you should make more top-end power with mid-lengths (though it sounds backwards, it's true...ask any tuner).

  23. #23
    FML jrp's Avatar

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    Originally posted by MidnightZ28
    Great write-up, but it's not necessarily true that long-tube headers will make more power than mid-lengths. In fact, you should make more top-end power with mid-lengths (though it sounds backwards, it's true...ask any tuner).
    did you look at the dyno graph i included, the LT's not only made a bit more peak top end power but also more power under the entire curve

  24. #24
    Registered Member Sheomet's Avatar

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    Great post jrp.

  25. #25
    Registered Member

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    nice

  26. #26
    :Poland: KingKuba's Avatar

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    Good work jrp

  27. #27
    Slow

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    Thumbs up

    This is a great thread. As a newby at least to the LS1 I found it to be very informative. Hope some of you guys with all the knowledge keep it going.

  28. #28
    This is your brain on drugs. Cerberus2k7's Avatar

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    Very nice read for a n00b like me. Question though, with the shorty headers, can you still run 500+hp using those?

  29. #29
    very nice information...cooooool

  30. #30
    MotorBoatin' ColonelAngus's Avatar

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    Nice thread. Great info for a noob to LS1's like myself

  31. #31
    Great work.

  32. #32

    nice!

    Thats a good job you did! Very Helpful!

  33. #33
    awesome post!

  34. #34
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    Thumbs up

    nice job!

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