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Thread: 98 Tank Access Door

  1. #1
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    98 Tank Access Door

    Here we go. This is the before and after shot.





    Action

    Remove cover from Amp and unfasten amp from mounting screws.
    Remove both side panels with speakers.
    Roll back carpet
    Drill pilot hole and plan remaining cut.

    Note: We drilled with large drill bit and taped the bit with a lot of electrician’s tape about a ½ inch from the end to insure that we stopped before we hit the fuel tank!














    Expanding the Hole We marked the outline of the rectangle we wanted.

    We used a nibbler to finish the cut of the hole








    Closing the hole

    We took galvanized metal and cut out a rectangle to cover the hole.

    Marked off screw holes and then drilled the holes in the cover and the floor.

    We used a piece of tarred insulation to seal the cover against water or air leaks.














    All, done. Back where we started. 2 Hours tops. I would recommend that you cover the nibbler to keep the “nibbles” from flying all over the place. I’m still vacuuming those darn things and I’m finding them in the front seat!


    Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; 01-12-2010 at 06:46 AM.

  2. #2
    XBL: jumpcable jumpcable's Avatar

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    Looks good...I'm assuming this allows a quick way to change out the fuel pump in case it goes bad. - Patrick

  3. #3
    Registered Member

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    Nice.. BTW.. did you know there's an Arm growing out of your seat?!?


  4. #4
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    That's the "arm mod" Big bucks...


    Yes, the door is to gain access to the fuel pump assembly

  5. #5
    XBL: jumpcable jumpcable's Avatar

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    Makes you wonder why wouldn't a car company incorporate this type of mod into the design of their cars. Sure makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on....oh yeah, they are more worried about apeasing themselves. Sorry, almost forgot for a second there.

  6. #6
    Ride and Dine! FirehawkNS's Avatar

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    Hey that first and last pic are the same, not a before and after!!


  7. #7
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    Ya got me there. It's hard to tell because we did such a good job!

  8. #8
    Registered Member Get Shorty's Avatar

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    Did you do this before or after your fuel pump went out? Y'know, as a "just in case"?

    Excellent idea, though... Better than dropping the tank.

  9. #9
    moats & toes
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    Originally posted by jumpcable
    Makes you wonder why wouldn't a car company incorporate this type of mod into the design of their cars. Sure makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on....oh yeah, they are more worried about apeasing themselves. Sorry, almost forgot for a second there.
    Too many people suing over gas tanks in Fords, NBC blowing up pickup truck fuel tanks, and a mass of paranoid people who think they're gonna die.

    Look at what they did to the Monaro fuel tank setup to make the GTO.

  10. #10
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    The walbro I have got in with the tank being dropped. My sending unit went bad so I figured I'd just do the hole this time rather than drop the tank. I figure, it'll save me a LOT of time on any other fuel tank entry.

    E

  11. #11
    Super Dee Duper Moderator
    98 SNAKE EATER's Avatar

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    My sending unit recently went out as well (2nd F'ng time!!)

    What length are the sheet metal screws you used

    I'll be doing this on Saturday night, so I wanna make sure I get all the parts I need beforehand....






    Rick

  12. #12
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    Probably 1/2 inch screws. They really don't need to be very big. 2 pieces of sheet metal and the tar strip insulation and sealant isn't very thick. You have a good inch of space under the floor befor you touch tank. You just need to watch out for plumbing and wiring as you reassemble.

    E

  13. #13
    Danger Blk00z28's Avatar

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    Man Snake, you brought this from the past.. lol

    So why is it "98 tank access door" do the 99-02 have something different? I didnt think they changes anything other then the size of the tank, just a little though.

  14. #14
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    One is metal, the others are plastic 99+. The sizes are different and they relocated the hole slightly on the plastic ones.

    Other than that, no difference.


    E

  15. #15
    Danger Blk00z28's Avatar

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    Cool, but hell either year, that would come in handy if you ever have to changer the sending unit.

  16. #16
    1998 Ws6 M6 #370

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    Originally posted by Blk00z28
    Cool, but hell either year, that would come in handy if you ever have to changer the sending unit.
    aslong as you cut in the right place.

    following a 98 guide on a 99+ car, or a 99+ guide on a 98 car, won't allow you to get the job done

    Ryan.

  17. #17
    Registered Newbie Constrictor's Avatar

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    I will do this mod one day...but it'll probably be when the time comes that my fuel pump ever goes out!

  18. #18
    Super Dee Duper Moderator
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    Lightbulb

    OK, here are a few pix from my Sender Unit install


    Too much junk in the trunk....





    Remove Sidepanels.....




    Pull Carpet Back....




    Air Shears and Nibbler....




    It's hard to keep the Nibbler in a straight line, so I just used the Shears after drilling a small pilot hole....




    3 straight cuts to make a Doggie door....




    Pry Doggie door back to gain access......







    Unbolt Retaining Ring and Remove Fuel Pump Assembly






    Replace Fuel Pump with New Sender and Close Doggie door....



    Measure and Cut Sheet Metal Cover Plate.....




    Didn't have any Tar Strips on hand, so I improvised and layed a thick bead of Black Silicone around the perimeter of the access panel as well as the edges of the Doggie door itself....




    After Laying the Sheetmetal Cover in place, I used a VERY short drill bit to drill 6 small holes around the cover, then screwed it down using 1/2" Phillips Head Sheet Metal screws....






    Once it was screwed down, I went ahead and drilled 10 more holes to help distribute even pressure around the cover plate....









    After the Silicone was completely dry to the touch, I put the carpet back in place, re-installed the sidepanels and put all my junk back where they were.....








    Gauge seems to be working fine

    At the Gas Station, I left the Ignition on and watched the needle rise as I filled her up







    Rick

  19. #19
    project pumpkin 99huggerorangeZ's Avatar

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    Originally posted by eboggs_jkvl
    One is metal, the others are plastic 99+. The sizes are different and they relocated the hole slightly on the plastic ones.

    Other than that, no difference.


    E
    has anyone with a 99+ fbody done this mod and if so do you know where they relocated the access hole to the fuel pump??

  20. #20
    Registered Member XTNKT's Avatar

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    Originally posted by 99huggerorangeZ
    has anyone with a 99+ fbody done this mod and if so do you know where they relocated the access hole to the fuel pump??
    try this


    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...=136171&page=3

  21. #21
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    THis is really easier to locate than you might think. If you use a hole saw Geographically dead center you can locate the sender assembly and then adjust the exact location of the rectangular cut. You simply need to tape the hole saw so you don't push down on to the piping and wiring. Wrap masking tape around the hole saw about 1/4" up from the teeth of the bit. A thick layer of tape will stop the hole saw from damaging anything under the metal. That way you can do the project and custom cut your door. You can't reuse the OEM piece of sheetmetal that you cut as it will just lay there as a non supportive flap. The new "door" you put in to cover the hole will be the support and allow you to put in the water seal and sound deadener like Nick did.

    E

  22. #22
    Super Dee Duper Moderator
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    Angry

    OK, this is really starting to chap my arse

    Over the last week, I've noticed the gauge acting funny again

    If I fill the tank completely, the gauge reads full and won't budge until I drive at least 115 miles

    Then it proceeds to gradually move to "E" as I finish up the rest of the tank

    Now, as a test, I drove it till the gauge hit "E" (even though it's highly frowned upon), then hit the gas station...

    The tank would only take 11 gallons, which meant I had 4.5 gallons left (either that or the gas pump was f#ckin with me)

    Luckily, there's a 12 month warranty on the sending unit, so I'm in the clear, but what exactly would cause it to go bad in just 2 months time

  23. #23
    moats & toes
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    Rick,

    Your last name is Murphy, and you must abide by the Law. :

    2 months? Dunno. Not corrosion that quick, that's for sure. Have you measured what values it's giving you currently?

  24. #24
    Super Dee Duper Moderator
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    LOL, true.....

    I have yet to pull it, but when I do, I'll check the readings....

    New one should arrive tomorrow, but I'll wait till this weekend to throw it in

  25. #25
    1998 Ws6 M6 #370

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    rick, do you have that part number, that you can send me or post on the sending unit.

    and for going bad in 2 months... around memorial day, you didn't get any shell gas in the tampa area did you?

    I did... my sender is screwed, 140 miles before it goes off of full .. they will pick up the tab of $1049 to get it done at the dealer.. but i don't want my car going to dealer for that repair

    Ryan

  26. #26
    Super Dee Duper Moderator
    98 SNAKE EATER's Avatar

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    Damn!!

    $1049??

    Think you can make me a copy of your Shell receipt?

    No, I didn't buy any Shell or Marathon gas

    I stick to BP Connect/Amoco, Chevron and Mobil (Sunoco 94 if I'm up North)

    The part number for the Sender is 25314260







    Rick

  27. #27
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    Angry

    OK, looks like the $h!t's about to hit the fan

    I just got a call from my GM parts supplier and he said there has been a large amount of fuel senders going bad due to the bad batch of gas out there

    Well, I already knew that Shell and Marathon had this problem, but didn't think it concerned me cause I never use their gas

    Turns out that Chevron and Amoco Fuels were both tainted as well, but they didn't go public until recently

    Now, I'm just going by what my supplier and his shop foreman says and have yet to find an actual news regarding this, so if anyone has a link to more info, please post up....

    Anyhoo, my supplier said that if carbon deposits from sulphur are detected when the foreman checks the unit, it will void my warranty

    I went to BP's website and they don't have a phone number listed

    Who do I need to contact




    Hi, my name is Murphy and I got this Law......

  28. #28
    1998 Ws6 M6 #370

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    Thanks rick.

    I normally don't get shell, i even pulled off I4, only was a shell station, got back on I4, next exit, was shell, and some no name brand, so i went with shell... bad move on my part :/

    Thanks for the part number, i'll just order it now and do the repair myself,

    Ryan.

  29. #29
    Glow Connoisseur Crew Dolemite's Avatar

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    I just had a quick question.

    My fuel pump went bad on my car....it's a 96 Formula.

    I was wondering if your 'fuel pump removal door' mod can also be applied to LT1 cars. I'm assuming so...but I'm not sure

    Also...one thing isn't clear to me: Would I be drilling in hole into the metal? Or also the actual gas tank? Am I going to be cutting into the actual tank to remove the pump? Or just the metal housing it?

  30. #30
    Registered Member Get Shorty's Avatar

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    Originally posted by Dolemite
    I just had a quick question.

    My fuel pump went bad on my car....it's a 96 Formula.

    I was wondering if your 'fuel pump removal door' mod can also be applied to LT1 cars. I'm assuming so...but I'm not sure

    Also...one thing isn't clear to me: Would I be drilling in hole into the metal? Or also the actual gas tank? Am I going to be cutting into the actual tank to remove the pump? Or just the metal housing it?
    I'm pretty postive it's the same.

    Oh, and use screws short enough to not puncture the tank.

  31. #31
    Glow Connoisseur Crew Dolemite's Avatar

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    Originally posted by Get Shorty
    I'm pretty postive it's the same.

    Oh, and use screws short enough to not puncture the tank.
    Okay, so basically, I am just drilling into the metal trunk area covering the tank? Not the tank itself?


    How hard is to actually replace the fuel pump afterwards?

  32. #32
    Registered Member Get Shorty's Avatar

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    Originally posted by Dolemite
    Okay, so basically, I am just drilling into the metal trunk area covering the tank? Not the tank itself?
    Correct.


    How hard is to actually replace the fuel pump afterwards?
    I've never replaced one on an F-body, so I couldn't tell you for sure. I know it's not normally a big deal though.

  33. #33
    moats & toes
    jmd's Avatar

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    Originally posted by Dolemite
    How hard is to actually replace the fuel pump afterwards?
    simple.

  34. #34
    eboggs_jkvl's Avatar

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    With the door it's simple. Open door. Remove ~6 fasteners, disconnect the hoses, lift out and replace. Reverse order and you're done.

    That sure beats put car on lift. remove exhaust, drop one side of PHB, remove fuel tank shield, remove fuel tank straps, drop fuel tank, remove ~6 fasteners, disconnect hoses, lift out and replace. Reverse order and you're done.



    Ok, now, you pick the easiest of the two procedures?

    E

  35. #35
    Glow Connoisseur Crew Dolemite's Avatar

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    Okay...I am going to probably tackle this weekend with my father.


    What should I use to cut the holes? What kind of tools should I use, and how should I avoid sparks?

  36. #36
    Member #613 zombie5011's Avatar

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    My car normally stays on full for 100+ miles and the 1/2 mark around 200ish... then rapidly shoots down to E around 300-325 miles.

  37. #37
    Registered Member FlagSStaff's Avatar

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    Originally posted by zombie5011
    My car normally stays on full for 100+ miles and the 1/2 mark around 200ish... then rapidly shoots down to E around 300-325 miles.
    That's the level sensor thingy being retarded. Mine stays on full for ~200 miles, then slowly works its way down. One of these days I'll get enough motivation to do the hole like E did, but I know what mileage my car gets, so no worries...lol

  38. #38
    Super Dee Duper Moderator
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    Originally posted by zombie5011
    My car normally stays on full for 100+ miles and the 1/2 mark around 200ish... then rapidly shoots down to E around 300-325 miles.

    It's usually carbon buildup on the variable resistor caused by $hitty gas and even $hittier GM parts


    You can pull the sending unit out, rub off the carbon with an eraser and you'll be good to go until it gets gunked up again


    I've had to do this once already after replacing the sending unit

  39. #39
    hell, I just siliconed mine back down.

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