I want the FINAL word on two subjects.....

[Uncle]

Descreen stock MAF - Yes or No
(I was at MTI last weekend and they said they do it on every car that comes through there.)

K&N or paper filter
(I have a new K&N for a good price, but haven't put it in)



I can't get a solid answer on either of these. Someone post the final analysis.

[bRa_DeN]

leave the maf alone and if you want to spend the extra money on a filter you can clean get a k&n if not then just stay paper;)

[gdu]

werd
besides papar just looks sexy: http://www.jeffgdula.com/Z28/images/tsp1.JPG
--
Silver 2000 Camaro Z28 M6 (www.jeffgdula.com/Z28)
mods completed:
free ram air, K&N filter (removed), TSP smoked clear lid, SLP air temp module (sold), Granatelli MAF (sold), SLP smooth bellows, Shaner S2 TB, TB bypass, EGR!, LS6 intake, AIR!, LS1 HOT CAM: 218°/227° 0.525"/0.525" 112° LSA, LS6 valvesprings, Hooker LT's, Hooker ORY, Flowtech 3" cutout, B&B tri-flo exhaust, LS1 edit by Sean Freese, Optima red top battery, MSD 8.5 mm super conductor wires, Bosch Platinum2 spark plugs, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, RAM 6130 clutch disc, 402PP, McLeod adjustable master, 2001+ slave, drill mod, Lou's short stick, CAGS!, Hotchkis STB, SLP Eibach springs, Bilstein HD shocks, 1LE front sway bar with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings & endlinks, BMR boxed sub-frame connectors, BMR lower control arms with poly/poly bushings, BMR bolt-in lower control arm relocation brackets, BMR adjustable panhard rod, Power Slot rotors, Hawk HPS pads, SLP 17" ZR1-style wheels with Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires, SLP bowtie grill, APC clear corner lenses, silverstars, red painted valve covers, LS1 bowtie cylinder head plate, G2 red brake caliper paint, CAMARO brake caliper decals, Valentine1
stereo stuff:
Alpine 7875 deck, Alpine V12 5-channel amp, Infinity Kappa component fronts, Infinity Kappa coaxial rears, stealthbox with JL 10W3 sub
Max POWER: 387.4 | Max TORQUE: 384.4 on 1/24/04
--

[Blacker]

Messing with the MAF can lead to more problems than gains. I am sure MTI tunes the car with the modified MAF. I tweaked some tables with LS1 Edit and mine is descreened. Best thing, leave it alone.

I had the K&N Filter, Patman had some oil analysis reports and they don't look good. Plus, the gasket is a half ass fix for a filter than doesn't fit properly. The 2 reasons I ditched mine and went back to FRAM.

[Captain Obvious]

Two questions with answers that run the gamut.

MAF screens do serve a purpose. While in theory the intake tract is cleansed of large debris by the air filter, many times stuff of substance gets past it. I prefer to always leave the front screen in place, and if the MAF is equipped with a back screen, remove that one. I'd rather suffer the possible loss of 1/2hp to the loss of a MAF if a large object gets in there.

K&N vs. paper - another that has as many opinions as users. A PROPERLY used K&N will give excellent flow, much better than paper. 90% of the K&Ns in use today are improperly used. Cleaned too often, over-oiled, etc. With that said, paper makes the most sense for those not interested in the efforts required to properly use a K&N, or for those that like to "tinker" too much (that's one of the downfalls to K&N, people always messing with them, cleaning, oiling, etc.)

[bRa_DeN]

where did you get the valve covers jeff?:)

[BLKTA]

Yes to descreened MAF. It was one of the first free mods I did to my car in 99 with ZERO adverse problems compared to nothing but headaches for a GMAF. I've personally seen a couple cars gain 4-5 rwhp with a descreened MAF after they switched with the cars still strapped to the dyno.

Paper filter only. I've never seen a LS1 gain rwhp with a K&N or other "high-flow" air filters when swapping on a dyno. Some have, but to me it's not worth the extra money except maybe it's reuseable.

[jmd]

Beyond what Captain said, the airflow is less turbulent going through the screens and should provide a more progressive & accurate airflow signal with screens than without.

[Orange99Z]

I have a descreend MAF and a K&N with no problems. I think it's an owners choice thing.

[jmd]

Some MAF's are less sensitive to it than others. I did a little logging w/ a descreened MAF and a screened one a while back on an older GM car and found the screened one a little more progressive.

[gdu]

Originally posted by bRa_DeN
where did you get the valve covers jeff?:)

painted them myself
2 coats primer (500 degree Duplicolor)
3 coats paint (1200 degree Duplicolor universal red)
cure for 2 hours in oven
2 coats clear (500 degree Duplicolor)

http://www.jeffgdula.com/Z28/images/DSC01245.JPG
http://www.jeffgdula.com/Z28/images/DSC01246.JPG

[bRa_DeN]

they look great

[gdu]

Originally posted by bRa_DeN
they look great
thanks, I wanted a nice little accent and didnt see any others i liked, but I should have taken my time and sanded and did better prep. Then again you ca only see the front.

[dropkick]

I remember reading from another post that the purpose of the screen is to straighten the airflow prior to making contact with the MAF sensor. The reduction in air turbulence is supppose to create a more accurate MAF reading.

I've done some testing (logged some data) with both screened and de-screened MAF's. The de-screened MAF created a lean condition. Also, my long term fuel trims seemed more consistent with the screen installed. As suggested above, if you remove the screen you should log some data and tune as required.

[Rob Almighty]

I have no issues with my K & N filter, and I'd keep the MAF screen on. It doesn't restrict any air on a bolt-on LS1.

[PC PaiN]

Leave the MAF alone.

K&N type filters are a waste of money IMHO. They filter less crap that a paper filter does and you gain no HP from them.

[killer01ws6]

I too have to recommend leaving the MAF alone,
and only recommend a oil filter (I use a Holley, fit is great)
is if you have a true sealed airbox and drive in wet conditions.

It can help in those cases.

[BeachZ]

Originally posted by Blacker
Messing with the MAF can lead to more problems than gains. I am sure MTI tunes the car with the modified MAF. I tweaked some tables with LS1 Edit and mine is descreened. Best thing, leave it alone.

I had the K&N Filter, Patman had some oil analysis reports and they don't look good. Plus, the gasket is a half ass fix for a filter than doesn't fit properly. The 2 reasons I ditched mine and went back to FRAM.

:werd: This topic has been pretty much beat to death. Switching out your MAF is just going to cause you headaches. You'll think you gained some HP, but a Dyno will prove otherwise. And I dumped my K&N for a Fram, too.

[jumpcable]

Leave the MAF alone (coming from experience) unless you are running an engine with 500HP or more.

Also, I ditched my Holley Powershot because I was getting exsessive oil in my MAF elements and it started to become a pain in the rear to clean it. I have a FRAM now and no complaints.

- Patrick :D

[killer01ws6]

this thread is getting long, nothing very final about it...:ghost:

[Uncle]

Originally posted by killer01ws6
this thread is getting long, nothing very final about it...:ghost:

Ok... FINAL WORD.....


Stock MAF + Fram paper filter = Best results/fewer headaches.

[Uncle]

Please lock this thread and archive it for future refernce. :D

[renips]

Keep the screen. I have seen debris come through the filter

[ChkPtCharlie]

my screen is gone... my car seems a little bit happier because of it.

i use a regular filter.

[Get Shorty]

My '01 Formula A4 is descreened, but I wouldn't do it again. I haven't had any problems, but I've read too much about it causing transmission problems.

[SteveC]

I installed ported MAF ends (no screen) 2 days before getting the vehicle dyno tuned. Changing the MAF ends or MAF itself, is more critical on A4 cars than M6, because the PCM uses the information the MAF gives it to shift the vehicle.

SteveC :)