Hilton
06-19-2004, 05:36 PM
I installed these this week. The coated version with the coated Y pipe. I was very happy with the welds. Maybe I just got lucky because I've seen other people complain about them, but they looked just fine. The headers and Y don't bang on the floor and they're not too low to the ground to make scraping a problem(stock height). The installation was pretty easy too.
Here's what I did.
~9pm start
pull plug wires
disconnect AIR
take off stb
pull plugs
take out manifold bolts
take out bolt holding in dipstick
~11:30pm get clean and go to bed
~11am start 2nd day
jack up car
disconnect Y pipe
take down manifolds
disconnect motor mounts
jack up motor a little
slide in headers
red rtv both sides of each gasket
bolt headers on, used grease
stick dipstick tube back in and bolt
reconnect motor mounts
stuck in new plugs
reconnected stock wires
reconnected AIR
reconnected stb
7pm get cleaned up go to bar
2pm start 3rd day
The Y pipe wouldn't go into the I pipe (not Y pipe's fault. The I pipe clamp was spot welded on and rusty), so I took it to a guy I know that owns a muffler shop. He took care of the Y pipe part. ($30)
4pm drive home happy
I didn't have to cut anything, bend anything, or grind anything. My hands are a little sore, but not nearly as bad as I would have though reading other write ups.
So far, no leaks.
here's a couple things I would do differently.
1. instead of disconnecting the motor mounts (from the frame), only loosen them. You only need to move the motor a little bit, and getting the holes lined back up was tricky.
2. make sure you have a friend to help you line up the header bolts. I tried to do it by making studs to hang the header from. If this works for you great. I had to get a little help.
3. use more than 1 drop light.
4. make damn sure you have ratcheting box wrenches. I could not have done this without them.
5. drink more water than beer.
I'm really happy with the headers. They seem to work as well as any other header, and they were the least expensive that I could find (TByrne Motorsports). They are much higher quality than I was expecting.
Here's what I did.
~9pm start
pull plug wires
disconnect AIR
take off stb
pull plugs
take out manifold bolts
take out bolt holding in dipstick
~11:30pm get clean and go to bed
~11am start 2nd day
jack up car
disconnect Y pipe
take down manifolds
disconnect motor mounts
jack up motor a little
slide in headers
red rtv both sides of each gasket
bolt headers on, used grease
stick dipstick tube back in and bolt
reconnect motor mounts
stuck in new plugs
reconnected stock wires
reconnected AIR
reconnected stb
7pm get cleaned up go to bar
2pm start 3rd day
The Y pipe wouldn't go into the I pipe (not Y pipe's fault. The I pipe clamp was spot welded on and rusty), so I took it to a guy I know that owns a muffler shop. He took care of the Y pipe part. ($30)
4pm drive home happy
I didn't have to cut anything, bend anything, or grind anything. My hands are a little sore, but not nearly as bad as I would have though reading other write ups.
So far, no leaks.
here's a couple things I would do differently.
1. instead of disconnecting the motor mounts (from the frame), only loosen them. You only need to move the motor a little bit, and getting the holes lined back up was tricky.
2. make sure you have a friend to help you line up the header bolts. I tried to do it by making studs to hang the header from. If this works for you great. I had to get a little help.
3. use more than 1 drop light.
4. make damn sure you have ratcheting box wrenches. I could not have done this without them.
5. drink more water than beer.
I'm really happy with the headers. They seem to work as well as any other header, and they were the least expensive that I could find (TByrne Motorsports). They are much higher quality than I was expecting.