Got my LM-1 wideband today

[DebianDog]

Very well packaged and solid looking (You know how things can get tossed around) plus bung, bung cap and software.

I will not have time to get the bung put in today hopefully tomorrow). I will keep you updated.

[smiley]

:thumbup:

[MeentSS02]

Please let us know how this works out for ya...

[DebianDog]

Damn the muffler shop was busy as hell today. Will try again tomarrow to get that bung welded in. grrrrr.....

[DebianDog]

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/images/products_01.jpg

O.K. got the bung in found out is is a larger than 3/8 metrics hex wench that fits it. Took me a while to find one. Not sure the size but a hair bigger than 3/8 and metric.

http://homepage.mac.com/danslagle/.cv/danslagle/Sites/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2004-02-28%2009.41.46%20-0800/Image-FDA02AA56A1411D8.jpg-thumb_140_105.jpg

The logging on this thing is amazing. You have 45 minutes of logging built into the thing and it takes about 10-12 reading a second. the documentaion says the reading are averaged over .2-.3 seconds so you get the mean.
The LM-1 simply records the voltage on each input connection with a resolution of 10 bits (a precision of 0.00488 Volt). LM-1 will record up to 44 minutes of data from all sensors including lambda. A new value for each sensor is recorded every 0.08125 seconds (roughly 12 times/second). The recorded data can be later downloaded into a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet or graphed and analyzed by the included software.

The log capture program is pretty straight forward and if you want to look at it with their interface you can.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/images/Log_Capture_Small.jpg

To record data in the LM-1, press the 'Record' button. The LM-1 will show on its display a blinking 'R' between the lambda and AFR/O2 display while recording. To stop recording, press the 'Record' button again. Each time you start recording a new record ‘Session’ is created. A total of 44 minutes of data can be recorded in the LM-1. If the internal memory of the LM-1 is full, the blinking 'R' will not show when starting a recording session. Instead it will show an 'F' for 'Full' for a few seconds. To erase all recorded data, press and hold the 'Record' until 'FR' (for flash reset) shows between lambda and AFR/O2 display.

I exported mine to a DIF (Data Interchange Format) file and Excel had no problems reading it. Every session I logged was labeled with a new session number and header.

Looking forward in intergrading this with EFIlive/Flashscan! Cool stuff!

O.K. at WOT I had numbers between 12.77-12.48 still too rich huh?:confused:

[GM Muscle]

Debian is it a standard GM bung? I was under the impresion that it was and just had a GM bung welded into my new exaust set up for the LM-1 (haven't purchased it yet). I hope I don't have to take it out.

[DarkPhoenix]

That thing looks sweet, (added to things to buy list) You want to be 12.8-12.9, but that is cool that you can now see where it is so you know when to adjust it, so cool. :cool:

[smiley]

how close should this be to a dyno wideband?

that looks sweet! i might have to add that to the list!!!!

can you post a link to their site in here again?

[DebianDog]

Originally posted by GM Muscle
Debian is it a standard GM bung? I was under the impresion that it was and just had a GM bung welded into my new exaust set up for the LM-1 (haven't purchased it yet). I hope I don't have to take it out.

It looks like the standard size. I would think it would have to be so the O2 would fit ;) I do not think it is GM specific. Not sure there but so many cars use the same wideband.

[DebianDog]

Originally posted by Blk02ls1a4
That thing looks sweet, (added to things to buy list) You want to be 12.8-12.9, but that is cool that you can now see where it is so you know when to adjust it, so cool. :cool:

So I am to lean at 12.4 eh?

[DarkPhoenix]

You are a little rich, the LS1 tends to like just 12.8 12.9 :1... This should help,

http://community.webshots.com/photo/74210767/121958088SXIlhe

[DebianDog]

Originally posted by smiley
how close should this be to a dyno wideband?

that looks sweet! i might have to add that to the list!!!!

can you post a link to their site in here again?

I would think it would be the same as the wideband on a dyno. Plus, when you are able integrate it with EFI live (later this year) you will be able to get those "real world" changes you cannot simulate on a dyno (like my FTRA)

Innovative Website (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm1.php)

[DebianDog]

Originally posted by Blk02ls1a4
You are a little rich, the LS1 tends to like just 12.8 12.9 :1... This should help,

http://community.webshots.com/photo/74210767/121958088SXIlhe

Thanks!

[JandJsTA]

I put a copy of this at the top of the forum under the Tuning and A/F thread for future info purposes :)


Couple of ? DebianDog... Where did you put it in the "Y" (hard to tell by the Pic) and how/where did you run the wiring to the sensor ? I may want add that to the post in the F.A.Qs

[DebianDog]

Well the wiring will be though the same hole the cutout uses under the passenger seat. I have not wired it up permanently yet. i am still thinking about what do do with it when it is not connected.:confused:

Pics of the underside of my car (http://homepage.mac.com/danslagle/PhotoAlbum11.html)

[slow]

I installed one of these this weekend on a friends car.

We ran the wires through the drain plug on the passenger side floorboard, I used a packard weather pack connector to send the output back into the computer, via the pass rear 02 to make it easy to log with EFI live.

The sensor itself, on the vehicle im working on, will stay installed fulltime, so it won't be a issue to have to disconnect it. Not sure what is the best solution for that

Ryan.

[DebianDog]

Originally posted by slow
I installed one of these this weekend on a friends car.

We ran the wires through the drain plug on the passenger side floorboard, I used a packard weather pack connector to send the output back into the computer, via the pass rear 02 to make it easy to log with EFI live.

What was involved in making it connect with EFI live? Details please :help:

[slow]

there is an output cable that you can buy for like $8, it is just a 3.5mm stereo plug, you sent the one output, to the stock 02 sensor plug, using pin B (i think?) for the output of the LM1 so the computer sees the voltage.

here is a copy and paste of the instructions, that i was sent, im sure the real copy was on the site somewhere for the LM-1

"To connect the LM-1 to the EFI-computer, first determine what kind of narrow band sensor is used, then follow the instructions below (requires a digital multimeter to determine correct OEM sensor wires):



a. Vehicle has a 1-wire sensor:

Wire analog output 1 directly to the wire.



b. Vehicle has a 2-wire sensor:

While the engine is off determine which of the 2 wires has a low resistance between the wire and the sensor body. This is the heater power for the sensor. Wire analog output 1 directly to the other wire. Leave the heater power wire unconnected but make sure it cannot ground itself or see above.



c. Vehicle has a 3-wire sensor:

Typically the 3 wires are heater power, Ground and sensor element connection.

Generally they have 1 black wire and 2 white wires. Connect the black wire from the EFI computer to analog output 1 of the meter. Leave the other wires unconnected but make sure they cannot contact any metal parts or see above. If the wiring colors are different, then heater power can simply be determined by measuring the voltage on the wires when the engine is running. The wire showing 12V or more is the heater power. The sensor element connection voltage fluctuates around 0.45V when the car is warmed up. Wire analog output 1 directly to this wire. The Ground connection has low resistance to chassis ground (less than 1 Ohm). Measure while the engine is off.



d. Vehicle has a 4-wire sensor

Typically the 4 wires are heater power, heater ground, sensor ground, and sensor element connection. Proceed as for the 3-wire sensor. "



The rear 02 codes will all be removed, as the car does not have cats. I have not tested it yet.. as the car does not have a motor either...

Ryan.

[DebianDog]

Ryan,

Are you not worried about the car trying to adjust off the rear O2's reading?

[smiley]

yea.... that was my initial guess..... that he had no cats and use using the stock o2 wire.... but just because the codes are removed doesn't mean the pcm will ignore this? :dunno: interesting though.

[slow]

it is a friends car.

But as far as i know, the rear 02's are not used for tuning, just to know the cats work (or don't in this case ;)) if you know otherwise please let me know, but all the people i have talked to, say the rear ones are JUST for the emmisions, hence why you can run 02 sims, ect, and not have a problem.

disabling the codes, should allow the output of the LM1 to be able to give any kind of output, to the rear 02 sensors,

After all, it is the same type of output, that a normal 02 sensor would give, if you ran a normal sensor in a car without cats, as that is the way the LM-1 is designed to output the value of the wideband, under one of the options.

(or at least that is how i was explained it should work)

Ryan.

[DebianDog]

Yep your right! I spoke with RWTD, earlier today, about it and he confirmed that the tune would not be affected by it as the rear O2's are "pretty" much there to throw a service light your cat

[smiley]

so there rear o2's only function in life is to make the ses light come one? ;) that would be a sweet way to hook up the lm1 then!!!

although, i would think there would be some way to make a quick disconnect on the wires inside though. i have cats and will keep my rear o2 sensors.

[Black02SS]

Originally posted by DebianDog

O.K. at WOT I had numbers between 12.77-12.48 still too rich huh?:confused:


Depends if this was N/A or on the spray. N/a you want around a 12.8-13.1 with no or minimal KR. But on the spray I would like presonally to see it around the 11.5-12.0 range.

[DebianDog]

Originally posted by Black02SS
Depends if this was N/A or on the spray. N/a you want around a 12.8-13.1 with no or minimal KR. But on the spray I would like presonally to see it around the 11.5-12.0 range.

This is N/A ;) James just sent me a new tune this morning. Looking at the numbers, I was getting richer as I went faster which I found odd. Anyway more testing this weekend.

[V-10 Killer]

I have an odd question. Is this something that can be wired up to turn on and off via ignition switch, or do you have to manually do it every time?

Also, in a car with high-flow cats (ex. Jet-Hot's), how much would A/F ratio be thrown off by using the rear bungs, and by roughly how much?

Thanks:)

[DebianDog]

They do not "recommend" you have it plugged in to the car when you start it because of the possiablity of a surge. But they did say many of their customers do it anyway.

A/F ration is off .2 or better though a cat. I would just install the extra bung they send you OR install one into the front bung and wire it to the car.

[FinalTA]

Does this unit take input for RPM as well? Do you personally have this feature working if it is available? I would think that would be important for tuning's sake...

[horist]

Originally posted by FinalTA
Does this unit take input for RPM as well? Do you personally have this feature working if it is available? I would think that would be important for tuning's sake...

The core unit doesn't include the RPM cable... that's another 100 bux (that is unless they've changed it... i bought an LM-1 last year when they first came out)