FAQ

[Ls1CamaroSS]

Looks like I'll be the first to start it off. Feel free to add as much to it.

How do I run a wire from the battery to inside the car?
Under the hood on the passenger side you'll see the PCM. Its far back towards the windshield. You'll see a lot of wires going in to a couple of harnesses that plug into it. Theres 2 10mm bolts that hold it in. Remove the 2 7mm bolts holding the harnesses in and set the harnesses aside. Then remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the PCM secure. Now you can turn the PCM sideways so that the part where the wires went is now facing the passenger fender. The PCM will now lift right out with ease. You could leave the harnesses attached but it causes you to have to struggle to get the PCM out of its cubby hole. You'll now see a rubber grommet in the firewall. You can fish your wire thru here. Now inside the car, go to the passenger kickpanel, up behind the glovebox you'll find your wire. Its usually easier to remove the kick panel to find the wire. Anytime you add any wires to the battery, make sure you fuse them within 18 inches of the battery.

How do I remove the factory radio?
The trim panel around the radio will pull off. Once you get a grip on it, just pull and it will pop off. If you have trouble getting a grip then try using a dull thin object such as a butter knife to slide behind the panel so that you can get a better grip.
With the trim panel removed, you will see 2 7mm bolts holding the radio in. Simply remove these and the radio will come right out. Also if you have trouble pulling the radio out the wire harness may be hooked on something just give it a little tug and it should come free.

Headunit wiring harness
Pin#............Color.................Function
1......................Grey........................Front Left Speaker -
2......................Tan..........................Front Left Speaker +
3......................Dark Green.............Front Right Speaker -
4......................Light Green.............Front Right Speaker +
5......................Black .....................Ground
6......................Brown.....................Illuminatio n
7......................Grey........................Dimmer
8......................Pink...........................Power Antenna
9......................Yellow.....................12V Ignition
10....................Orange....................12V Constant
11.....................NA...........................NA
12.....................NA...........................NA
13.....................NA...........................NA
14....................Dark Blue................Steering Wheel Controls
17....................Light Blue............... Right Rear Speaker -
18....................Dark Blue................Right Rear Speaker +
19....................Yellow.....................Left Rear Speaker -
20....................Brown......................Left Rear Speaker +

The smaller plug on the back of the radio is for the optional cd changer.


How do I remove the door panels ?
Remove the 1 screw holding the plastic triangle piece by the side mirror. That piece will just pop off.

Pop off the door lock indicator. Can be a little tricky but it just pops off.

Remove the 3 big screws. 2 are in the arm rest area. The 3rd is under the handle you grab to close the door. It is kind of angled upwards. I believe the firebirds may also have a 4th big screw at the bottom of the door panel near the map holder area.

Remove the black plastic trim that goes around the handle and holds the switches. To do this remove the screw behind the handle and the screw angled upward near where the 3rd big screw was in step 3. Pop the piece loose enough to reach behind it and unplug the wiring harnesses. Some people like to pop out the smaller plastic piece that holds the switches first but I like to leave it in as the clips tend not to go back on as tight. Once the harnesses are unplugged you can remove the piece by twisting it to clear the door handle.

Now the door panel is ready to come off. It lifts up and out...not straight out. It has "j" hooks molded as part of the door panel and if you try to pull the door panel straight out you'll break the hooks making it impossible to keep the panel secure. It may be a little tight to move it up at first. I prefer to grab the panel near the weathestripping at the top of the door and pull it up and out just enough to unhook it from the top part of the door frame. This then gives you a good place to pull the rest of the panel up.

Installation is the opposite.

Can I add a subwoofer to the factory system?
Yes. To add an amp to the factory stuff you can do it a couple of ways. The first is to by an OEM-1 made by PAC. Its plug and play with no splicing of the wires at all. It gives you a set of RCA (2 if you want) and a remote turn on. The second way is basically an OEM-1 but involves you putting a few wires together yourself. Still dont have to cut any factory wires though. You will need a line level adaptor. I recommend an PAC SNI35. Then you'll need 2 radio wiring harnesses. A Metra 70-1858 and a Metra 71-1858. Take the 2 wiring harnesses and wire them together, color for color. You'll end up with a harness that plugs into the cars radio harness on one end and plugs into the factory radio on the other end. The blue wire in the harness will be your true remote turn on. Then take your line level adaptor and wire it into the speaker wires on the harness you just made. If you tap off the front speaker output the colors will once again match up. Now you have a harness that allows your radio to work exactly the same as before but with a set of rca outputs and a remote turn on. Both ways are essentially the same thing, just that PAC has made it slighty easier. The second way can be found using parts that you can buy at just about any car stereo store but requires maybe 10 extra minutes of work on the bench wiring it. Either way the price will range between 50-60 dollars. Another option is just to splice the line level adaptor directly in to the cars radio harness. Perfectly fine but I dont like having to touch the factory wiring if I dont have to but its cheaper as you are only paying for the price of the adaptor and not all of the extra harnesses. You would hook the input leads of the line level convertor to the front or rear speaker out puts of the radio.

[Constrictor]

For pictures and a complete walkthrough on how to remove and install an entire aftermarket sound system in your F-body, visit my Death to a Monsoon page:

http://www.metalreviewcentre.com/monsoon1.htm

[Ls1CamaroSS]

Can I still use my steering wheel controls with my new head unit?
Yes, you can still use your steering wheel controls if your new HU uses an infrared remote control. There are a few different adapters available. I like the PAC SWI-X


http://store.clubgp.com/catview.asp?catid=6

Sound Gate also makes adapters.

Where is the Moonsoon amp located?
The amp is located in front of the spare tire above the wheel well. It is mounted to a plastic plate and is on the fender side of the plate.

Can I replace the stock Moonsoon speakers and get better sound?
You can but they may not sound their best. The woofers in the Monsoon setup are all 2ohms (Firebird subs have dual 4ohm voice coils that are run in parallel as a 2ohm load). Replacing the factory 2ohm woofers with 4ohm woofers, the industry standard, will cause you to lose about half of the available power and really isn't recommended.

I need an install kit which one should I use?
The following are Metra install kits:

40-GM10 - Gm factory antenna to aftermarket head unit

99-4544 - '82 and UP GM multi-kit with 1/2 DIN EQ option

99-3300 - Chevy/Olds/Pontiac 1994 and UP dash kit (flush)

99-3009 - Camaro/Firebird 1993 and UP dash kit (flush, fits better than 99-3300)


Best Kits is a Metra alternative (little better quality too):

BAA4 - GM Antenna adapter

BHA1858 - 1997-2001 Wiring Harness

BKGMK432, - 1997-2001 generic dash kits for F-body
BKGM4
BKGM8 - 1997-2001 Camaro specific kit
BKGM9 - 1993-2001 Firebird specific kit

BKSAC656 - 1993-2001 Firebird speaker adapter

Best Kits also has link for adding CD changers, etc.

Where can I find a remote turn on for the amplifier?
The Monsoon amp doesnt have a remote turn on. It senses current from the speaker inputs to turn the amp on. You can tap an iginition wire somewhere or off of the power antenna. Firebirds are easy enough because the radios already have a remote turn on. Just tap into the pink wire. Camaro radios also have a remote turn on but there is not a wire coming out of the radio for it. Get a connector to fit the radio harness (available from most auto parts stores) and plug your wire into pin #8. This is your remote turn on.

Can I replace the Monsoon amplifier and keep the factory headunit?
Its a little more difficult to do than adding a sub amp. It will require the use of two line level converters and then finding all of the factory speaker wires. You would add the two line level converters the same as if you were adding a sub. Once the speaker wires have been located , its a matter of extending them to the new amplifier. The new amplifier must have a built in crossover or the speakers will be playing fullrange. The factory has the crossover built in. If your amp doesnt have a crossover than passive crossovers must be used.

Can I replace the headunit with an aftermarket and keep the rest of the Monsoon system?
Absolutely. Its a simple install. All you need is a mounting kit , wiring harness and antenna adaptor. All can be found at your local stereo shop. If you are using a din and a half radio then you wont need the mounting kit.

[Ls1CamaroSS]

Camaro

Front Speakers
6.5" "S" oversized, 2 ohm, located in the lower portion of the doors

.6" 4 ohm tweeters located on the same axis as the 6 1/2 inch. Kinda like a coaxial speaker.

Rear Speakers
4" 4 ohm midrange speakers located in the rear hatch panels

Sail Panel Woofers
6.5" 2 ohm subwoofers located next to the rear seats

8 Channel Amplifer-200w (2000 up is now 500w but you cant tell a difference)

***Note---This doesnt apply to convertibles***


Firebird

Front Speakers
6.5" inch "S" oversized, 2 ohm, located in the lower portion of the doors

.6" 4 ohm tweeters just above the 6.5"

Rear Speakers
4" 4 ohmmidrange speakers located in the rear hatch panels
.6" 4 ohm tweeter located next to the rear 4" midrange

Sail Panel Woofers
6.5" dual 4 ohm voice coil subwoofers located next to the rear seats

10 Channel Amplifer -500W

***Note---This doesnt apply to convertibles***

[F1LS1]

Originally posted by LS1Z28
----------------------------------------

Error codes for cassette and CDplayers and changers
Cassette Errors
E10 : Tight tape error Cause(s): A restricted cassette tape transport or broken cassette drive belt Correction: Substitute a different cassette tape. If there still is an error code, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E11 : Broken Tape Error Cause(s): A broken cassette tape Correction(s): Substitute a different cassette tape
E12 : Communication Error Cause(s): A vehicle/radio communication problem or an internal radio communication problem Correction(s): Disconnect the battery voltage to the radio then reconnect after a few minutes. If there still is an error, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E13 : Tape Communication Error Cause(s): The micro-processor is reading the speed pulses from the tape deck either too fast or too slow. Correction(s): It the tape player is still playing a cassette, try a new cassette. If there is still an error, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E14 : Wrapped Tape Cause(s): The tape is wrapped around the capstan. This means a tape is wound up in the tape player. This error message could appear when a CD adapter is being used. Other causes could be old or damaged tapes. Long playing (90 or 120 minute) tapes are thin and can stretch easily creating this condition. Correction(s): Try playing a known good quality tape. Remove the CD adapter.
Cln Tape Indicator Cause(s): This message appears after 50 hours of accumulated tape play. Correction(s): We suggest cleaning the tape head. Then reset the radio by depressing the eject button for five seconds. Cleaning the heads will not reset the "Cln" display. To reset the "Cln" display, push and hold the eject button for five seconds. The display will return to its normal display.
CD Errors
E20 : Focus Error Cause(s): The CD player cannot focus on the disc or there is an internal focus problem. Correction(s): Try cleaning the disc or using a new disc. Make sure the disc is loaded correctly. The road could be too rough or there is too much humidity. If the problem is not corrected, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E21 : Tracking Error Cause(s): There is a problem with reading the disc Correction(s): Try cleaning the disc or using a new disc. Make sure the disc is loaded correctly. The road could be too rough or there is too much humidity. If there is still an error, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E22 : Motor Error Cause(s): The CD motor is not handling the compact disc properly. Correction(s): Service or exchange the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E23 : Communications Error Cause(s): There is a vehicle/radio communication problem or an internal radio communication problem. Correction(s): Disconnect battery voltage to the radio and then reconnect after a few minutes. If there is still an error, send the unit to an ACDelco® Service Center.
LLAI CD Changer Errors
E30 : Focus Error Cause(s): The CD player cannot focus on the disc or there is an internal focus problem. Correction(s): Try cleaning the disc or using a new disc. Make sure the disc is loaded correctly. The road could be too rough or there is too much humidity. If there is still an error, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E31 : Tracking Error Cause(s): There is a problem with reading the disc. Correction(s): Try cleaning the disc or try using a new disc. Make sure the disc is loaded correctly. The road could be too rough or there is too much humidity. If there is still an error, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E32 : Motor Error Cause(s): The CD motor is not handling the compact disc properly or defective magazine mounting screws are interfering with the mechanism. Correction(s): Reload the magazine. If there is still a problem, replace the magazine. If the problem continues, back out the mounting screws. If the condition is corrected, replace the screws with shorter screws or add washers to the existing screws. If this condition still exists, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E33 : CD Changer Communication Error Cause(s): There is a vehicle/radio communication problem or internal radio communication problem. Correction(s): Disconnect battery voltage to the radio and then reconnect after a few minutes. If there is still an error, determine if the problem is with the radio, the harness or the changer. Inspect for correct voltage at all connectors. If there is still an error, service the unit at an ACDelco® Service Center.
E34 : Changer Door Open
E35 : Changer Magazine Empty
FMI 10-Disc Changer Errors
E01 Cause: This indicates a malfunction of the disc changer functions. Correction: Before sending the unit in for service, perform the following procedure:
Press the reset button on both the changer and the remote. The reset button on the changer is located on the front panel of the unit. It can be activated with the tip of a pin.
If the unit does not operate after resetting it, remove the magazine by inserting a business card between the magazine and the mechanism. The lock lever will disengage to allow the magazine to eject.
Make sure all CDs are in the magazine and none remain lodged in the carriage. If, upon removing the magazine, a CD is found lodged in the carriage, remove all CDs from the magazine and reinsert the magazine into the changer.
Press the eject button. This should cause the lodged CD to move from the carriage into the empty magazine. The magazine should automatically eject and normal operation will return.
If the changer fails to resume normal operation, send the unit to an ACDelco® Service Center.
E30 Cause: Excessive temperature Correction: Let the temperature of the changer resume to the normal range.

[Alan]

With some help from DJSexay, I was able to figure out how to wire my DEI 530T Window Automation Module.

You can either have all the wiring in the driver’s door, or wire it to both the driver’s and passenger’s doors. If you do all the wiring in the driver’s door, it's easier, but you can only use one-touch up/down from the driver's door.

In either case, do the following:
1) At the driver's window switches, cut the dark blue and gray wires.
2) Connect the small brown wire from the 530T to the dark blue wire.
3) Connect the small white wire the gray wire.
4) At the driver's side motor, cut the dark blue and brown wires.
5) Connect the large blue wire form the 530T to the dark blue wire.
6) Connect the large green wire to the brown wire.

This has provided one-touch up/down for the driver's window.


To keep the wiring all in the driver's door, do the following (if you want one-touch control from the passenger’s switches, skip to the next section):
1) Cut the light blue and tan wires at the driver's window switch.
2) Connect the small brown/black wire from the 530T to the switch side of the light blue wire.
3) Connect the small white/black wire to the switch side of the tan wire.
4) Connect the large blue/black wire from the 530T to the other end of the light blue wire.
5) Connect the large green/black to the other end of the tan wire.

This has provided one-touch up/down for both windows from the driver's side switches.


To wire in both doors and have one-touch up/down control of both windows from all three switches, do the following:
1) At the passenger's window switch, cut the dark blue and brown wires. (IMPORTANT: Note, there are two brown wires at the passenger’s window switch. You need to work with the correct one. Turn on the car to accessory. Probe both brown wires with a test light. One will be hot and it ISN’T the one you want. The other will be cold and it IS the one you want)
2) Connect the small brown/black wire from the 530T to the switch side of the dark blue wire.
3) Connect the small white/black wire the switch side of the brown wire.
4) Connect the large blue/black wire form the 530T to the other end of the dark blue wire.
6) Connect the large green/black wire to the other end of the brown wire.

[Constrictor]

Procedure to "unlock" the Monsoon if you forget your code...


Ok here it is....

Theftlock Bypass
1. Press and hold presets 2 & 3 for about 10 seconds until the first 3 digits of
the display code are displayed

2. Write the numbers down.

3. Press the AM FM button, write down the next 3 numbers

4. Call 1-800-537-5140, when asked, enter 06010, press the “button” and enter the 6
digit code from the radio, you will get an unlock code, write it down.

5. Go back to the car, press the HR button and set the first 2 numbers, then press minute
button and set the next two last numbers, press AM FM button, SEC should be displayed,
turn on radio

To remove customers code, repeat step 5. you should see --- on radio face, the code is
now out of the radio.

[-=boM=-]

Add just about anything to anything. Peripheral Auxiliary Input Devices. (http://peripheralelectronics.com)

Wiring kits and wiring harnesses (http://www.sqelectronics.com/web/default.asp)

3rd & 4th Gen Fbody and C4 & C5 Corvette in dash kits, wiring, antenna ect (http://bestkits.com/SearchResults.aspx?mk=Chevrolet&mkid=4&md=Camaro&mdid=97&yrg=1997%20-%202003)


This is the kit I used in a 2002 Camaro SS. (http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/491)

[skytower31]

From a thread back in the day, thought it would be good for the FAQ.

Speakers to make the stock Monsoon still sound good!

Fronts:
Alpine SPS-1005 Tweeters
Alpine SPS-170A 6 1/2's

Rear Subs:
Rockford Fosgate RFP4406 6.5" Subs.

For the fronts I chose the Alpines because they have a fairly low RMS requirement, and are always a good choice of speakers for deck power. They are also very efficient. Note these are 4 ohm speakers where the factory ones are 2 ohm, the factory speakers however have a bigger magnet requiring more power to run. Now the Alpines have a smaller magnet and run at 4 ohms effectively forcing the amp to decrease the power, however the speaker is of a much higher quality and requires less power to run at optimal performance and it does sound better. Listening to them side by side the Alpine was the no contest winner. The Alpine SPS tweeters also dont require a lot of power to run, and definitely sound clearer and have a higher frequency response than the factory tweeters. I also utilized the factory tweeter's crossover for the alpines. What was nice was I cut the harnesses off of the old dead equipment and used them to wire in the new stuff, so if I ever wanted to put stock stuff back in (I dunno why) I could. The only problem is that the tweeters need to be flush mounted in the tweeter holes so the factory grilles cant be used. They look good anyway though and dont require any drilling.

Next was the subs... now everyone knows a DVC Sub running at 2 ohms is going to be much more powerful than a SVC 4 ohm sub. Thats true when youre comparing the same quality of sub, however remember the factory 4+4 ohm subs are foam and paper and inefficient compared to an aftermarket sub. The rockfords have a HUGE magnet, and RMS at about 150 watts. Now here I had to do some assumption since I couldnt get a clear answer anywhere as to what the monsoon "500 watt" amp puts out per channel. I assumed the far rear channels were lower power than the fronts and subs, I also assumed the fronts were lesser than the subs. My assumptions were 50 watts to the rear, 150 to the front, and 300 to the subs. Now that is going to under power the Rockfords because im running them at 4 ohm not 2. My other choice was JL 6w0s which would have been better power handling wise for this application HOWEVER I cant find them ANYWHERE, ebay, internet, etc, nobodys got em. So my only other choice was the Rockfords (or Pyramids LOL!!). This was basically just on a prayer I hooked em up and damn, they put out a HELL of a lot more bass than the factory ones.

NOW... This is no replacement for a high end deck, a good amp, or a nice pair of 10's in your car... but it IS great sound for a factory setup, it didnt cost a whole lot of money, doesnt take up any extra room, especially for people who prefer a stock look, or have a "race car" that they want decent sound in but dont want to have to pull their sub box out of everytime they are at the track.. I incidentally did this out of necessity since one of the mids, one of the subs, and one of the tweets crapped out in my car.

[rotwiler]

Just thought I'd add this, Infinity now makes a 2ohm speaker(the 62.7i or 63.7i) that works perfect in the doors and is set up just like the stock one and connects the same. No modifications are needed, just put some in my 02 Z28 and was the same height, has the dual inputs for bass and the tweeter, fit perfect with no adaptors needed and they sound great. They are coaxil, but set up like seperates with the tweeter mounted on the speaker. The tweeter is 2 ohm also, so if anyone is affraid to use them with the 4ohm HU, you could get a seperate tweeter. Many have used them with no issues and they sound great.

[79WS6]

Originally posted by Constrictor
Procedure to "unlock" the Monsoon if you forget your code...


Ok here it is....

Theftlock Bypass
1. Press and hold presets 2 & 3 for about 10 seconds until the first 3 digits of
the display code are displayed

2. Write the numbers down.

3. Press the AM FM button, write down the next 3 numbers

4. Call 1-800-537-5140, when asked, enter 06010, press the “button” and enter the 6
digit code from the radio, you will get an unlock code, write it down.

5. Go back to the car, press the HR button and set the first 2 numbers, then press minute
button and set the next two last numbers, press AM FM button, SEC should be displayed,
turn on radio

To remove customers code, repeat step 5. you should see --- on radio face, the code is
now out of the radio.

Update info as of 1/11/09

The instructions worked great until time to call the GM number.

After a series of tries I found the following worked to get the reset code from the automated system.

Call the 800 # and don't listen to the recorded message.... just enter 202108 followed by the * key. Then enter the 6 digit code from your radio followed by the * key. This worked as of Jan. 11, 2009.

Also note the the radio doesn't recongnize "0" as a 1st digit when entering the 4 digit reset code from GM. My code was 0808. Just use the min and hr keys to set 808. leave the 1st zero off

Worked like magic