Anyone have experience with Comp Cams Custom-5

[V-10 Killer]

Specifically 224/228 .581/.581 114LSA
I looked for that feedback list on the other site, and checked here thinking it'd been snuck over but didn't see it. But I looked a few weeks ago and nobody mentioned that cam specifically.

I HAVE been trying to educate myself on the cam numbers, and have heard that N20 uses benefit a bit from a longer exhaust duration. And that 114LSA seems to be more popular with A4 cars. A friend put a cam with a little more lift in his TA and says that I won't need to flycut the pistons at .581" lift.

Can someone give me some constructive criticizm here.

Here's info about the car it might go into:

'98 TA
4L60E
!AIR
!EGR
LS6 Intake (install same time as cam)
Jet-Hot Longtube headers with Jet-Hot Catted Y-Pipe
160deg T-stat
WS6 Lower Airbox foam-sealed to hood
K&N Filter
TB Bumpstop Mod
NGK TR6's and MSD Superconductors
TCI Streetfighter (3200 stall)
125-150hp Dry Nitrous shot
(37lb injectors on standby)
(LS6 Stage 3 same time as cam)
Some amatour tuning

I'd appreciate any feedback.
Thanks

[Beast96Z]

This cam is very similar to the Cartek cam that has made 472 rwhp in there cars. It would make a great N/A cam and a awesome nitrous cam. Not to mention that the driveability would be great. ;)

[V-10 Killer]

472rwhp!!! Holy crap, on stage 2 heads and 383 stroker or a 100 shot I hope.
I need more details on that one.

[Beast96Z]

This was using their grind of camshaft, but the numbers were the same. This was also using there $4000 LS-6 heads too, so I wouldn't expect the same results. All on a stock short block and no power adders though. Pretty impresive for that small of a cam.:)

[Black02SS]

I had that exact same cam (112lsa) until I switched it to a FMS cam. I made the numbers in the sig with a very conservative tune and no asp pulley. I liked the cam but wanted something more. Since I switched to the FMS, talk about a night and day difference. My heads are milled .030 and I have no clearance issues with either cam. Obviously the FMS is bigger. :D

On a side note, I noticed you have the 37lb'ers on standby. I would also suggest a intank fuel pump for running spray.

P.S. My cam specs are 227/229 576/596 114+4

[jrp]

i'd go with

Futral Motorsports Custom Grind Camshaft - 224"/228" .586"/.581" 114LSA aggressive profile with a 1800-6600 RPM range, good idle

Futral Motorsports Custom Blower/Nitrous Camshaft - 224"/230" .586"/.591" 114LSA aggressive profile with a 1800-6800 RPM range, fair idle, for blower/nitrous applications

like black02ss said, FMS cams make great power, definately look into them :drive:

[V-10 Killer]

Thanks for the tips gentlemen, I'll look into that right away!

And Black02SS, The fuel pump's on the list, along with SOOOOO many other things, but thanks for the advice.

[Constrictor]

That cam will not put you to where you'll need to upgrade your injectors or your fuel pump. If you want to do it for peace of mind, then by all means do it.

I have a similar cam, but mines backwards from you, 228/224 112LSA, and I do have an A4. You can safely go with a 112LSA on an A4, but you just need to make sure you get a good tune. With a cam that big, you're going to need a tune anyway, so if you want the extra lopiness, then go for it.

A high stall convertor (3200+) is required for a cam like this. You will NOT like the car if you keep the stock convertor.

Lastly, since you mentioned it, flycutting wont be an issue. Peak lift of a cam has absolutely NOTHING to do with piston to valve clearance, because when a cam is at its maximum lift, the piston is near the bottom of the cylinder.

Where flycutting becomes an issue is if your duration and lope shape keep the valve open too long and the piston reaches top dead center before the valve has a chance to get out of the way of the piston. So its on the almost closed part of the lobe where flycutting becomes an issue.

[Black02SS]

Originally posted by Constrictor
That cam will not put you to where you'll need to upgrade your injectors or your fuel pump. If you want to do it for peace of mind, then by all means do it.



If you notice in his list of mods, a 125-150 dry shot of nitrous. ;)

[Constrictor]

Originally posted by Black02SS
If you notice in his list of mods, a 125-150 dry shot of nitrous. ;)

Oh yeah, I missed that part! :D

[V-10 Killer]

Originally posted by Constrictor
Lastly, since you mentioned it, flycutting wont be an issue. Peak lift of a cam has absolutely NOTHING to do with piston to valve clearance, because when a cam is at its maximum lift, the piston is near the bottom of the cylinder.

Where flycutting becomes an issue is if your duration and lope shape keep the valve open too long and the piston reaches top dead center before the valve has a chance to get out of the way of the piston. So its on the almost closed part of the lobe where flycutting becomes an issue.

I was wondering how that related, I pictured it that way, but was explained wrong to me a long time ago.
So the flycutting would be more for a cam with a high duration number, right? (ex. 236/240)

The reason I've held off on injectors is that I hear I'll probably have idle issues with them, Not enough air to balance the minimum pulsewidth, or something. I figure when I get the heads on, it'll be different then. Plus I bought them for use when I stroke the block.

[Black02SS]

keep in mind that if you do plan on running a dry kit, you might need injectors.

[jrp]

Originally posted by V-10 Killer
I was wondering how that related, I pictured it that way, but was explained wrong to me a long time ago.
So the flycutting would be more for a cam with a high duration number, right? (ex. 236/240)

The reason I've held off on injectors is that I hear I'll probably have idle issues with them, Not enough air to balance the minimum pulsewidth, or something. I figure when I get the heads on, it'll be different then. Plus I bought them for use when I stroke the block.

P2V clearance has more to do with then just duration. you could take a mild cam like a 224 and advance the shit out of it and run into clearance issues. it all has to do with the timing events.

[DebianDog]

Originally posted by Black02SS
keep in mind that if you do plan on running a dry kit, you might need injectors.

I have that cam (224/228) with a little more lift .573/.603. You WILL need injectors for the hose.

Sound clip in sig.

[V-10 Killer]

I know some of you mentioned the FMS cams, I found some I like a little better though. What would you guys think about the 231/237 .589/.595 (or another with .598/.595) 112LSA. Since I only drive it about 2500 miles a year, drivability isn't a major issue.

*edit* change of plans (again)
Also doing:
PP Stage 3 heads
DR Timing chain
Ported Oil Pump
ARP Head Studs
Chromemoly Pushrods
Meziere water pump
ASP pulleys
Racetronix intank (ordered and on the way now)

[Black02SS]

Sounds like a TSP cam. The only thing with that big of a cam will be the drivability. Which you said you don't care about. I have a buddy that just put in a TSP 231/231 on a 99 A4. He says it stalls a little and the drivability isn't all that great but he deals with it. He has that cam and a set of Stg. 2 PP 5.3 heads. Needless to say, so far I am impressed by his numbers more then ANYONE I have seen.

And no I won't post his numbers. They will be posted in another thread in the next comming few days. ;)

[jrp]

black02SS is right, thats a tsp cam. i still say the FMS for the under the curve power but the tsp 231 is a great cam as well :)

and black02SS, your buddies car is a freak :D