Stereo Equipment newbie..please help!!!

[vice86]

The BOSE system in my Z SUCKS...it has the auto volume level shit in it so the bass would fluxuate. BOSE put out a fix for it so I got it done...now it sounds like I have hardly any bass at all!! It's maxed to +5 on the bass but it sounds like -3 !!!

Whats the best, least expensive way to get more bass? You think I need to replace the head unit? I'd say yes since it still has the stupid auto level thing on it...weird that you can shut it off on a G35 but not on the 350Z..DUR.

My Z has a 10" sub behind the drivers seat...i was thinking that maybe a new amp and new headunit and I'll be set? I don't need to shake windows as I drive thru the neighborhood but I do want some nice bass. My bro's Hawk and wife's Trailblazer sound better then my way too hyped BOSE system. BOSE SUCKS...all its got is name recognition.

Can anyone give me some buying tips?

[nitrox28]

Just popping in to say hello. Butterscotch pudding is really good.

[vice86]

I hope you catch NO fish :D

[Rapph]

depends, cheapest way is probably a cheap head unit and a bass tube. I personally wouldnt do it but it works,

try
www.ikesound.com
www.onlinecarstereo.com

for head units stay away from sony and kenwood.

[Constrictor]

If you're happy with your setup and just want to add bass, get a line level convertor and connect it to one of the speaker wires going to your rear speakers and then get a sub of your choice for the back of the car. MTX makes inexpensive custom boxes that fit in the cubby hole. If you want a good sub, Alpine makes a nice 10" sub that hits very good for a sub of its size. I forget what its actually called Class R or something like that.

If you want something of a bit higher quality, Subthump makes nice boxes that fill that same spot that'll allow you to go as big as 12".

Personally I think the whole system in the car sucks, so I replaced everything, but not everyone has the time or money to do it.

[vice86]

Constrictor...the thing though is that the BOSE has a circuit that adjusts the levels of the sound/bass as the car gets louder and there's no way to turn the damn thing off...so I think I need a new head unit while I'm at it.

There's already a 10" subwoofer behind me so I t hink I may be set with that...I think all I need is a double din head unit and a nice amp.

Now the only problem is I have no idea how to set up that shit..lol.

[Constrictor]

I dont have any experience with the older Bose systems, but if its anything like the Monsoon system, then there are external amps that are built into the sound system that you'll need to bypass to get a good sound from an aftermarket head unit. This means running all new wires. Luckily, the F-body is one of the easiest cars Ive ever done an audio system on, so its really not so bad.

Check out my "Death to a Monsoon" section of my website (link in sig). It shows how to disassemble most everything in an F-body.

What I would start with is a head unit of your choice. If you just want to run your new speakers off the head unit, get some speakers of your choice, and run all new wire from the new head unit to the new speakers. Again, my site will show how to install the new stuff and where to put it.

Most aftermarket head units have a pre-out, which you can use to connect to the amp that is driving your 10" sub. Since you'll be using an aftermarket head unit, you will not need to buy a line-level convertor.

Its really a pretty basic setup, it might sound hard, but its not. If you have any other questions, just ask.

[Cliff_J]

vice - you're talking about the 2003 350Z Nissan listed in your profile right?

The old Bose systems were a pain to upgrade as EVERYTHING was proprietary. The amps were built into the backs of the speakers. The signal sent to the speakers was a odd voltage that was tricky to interface without getting noise. The typical solution unless you had lots of time (what is that?) was to junk the entire system from the HU, amps, to the speakers and start over.

You'd have to find a real good shop to work with to keep anything, but the costs of keeping the blose (pronounced 'blows') gear would be offset with the cost of getting some decent components upfront and a decent sub running off a decent amp from a good HU.

Sorry dude, you have a system that is potentially worse to deal with than a monsoon!

Cliff

[vice86]

Yep Cliff...its an '03 Z with a crappy BOSE...There's 2 separate amps...one amp for the speakers and then an amp for the sub. They are mounted in the back to the frame somewhere...you need to take all the plastic insides off to get to them but it could be done.

[Nova5]

Originally posted by Raph8erxxx
depends, cheapest way is probably a cheap head unit and a bass tube. I personally wouldnt do it but it works,

try
www.ikesound.com
www.onlinecarstereo.com

for head units stay away from sony and kenwood.

I've had very good luck with Kenwood gear. my HU and AMP are Kenwood Excelons. my frod has a older kenwood i've had for... about 5 years now, still going strong. I'll recommend kenwood car audio stuff to anyone, don't know about their home line.. haven't delt with it. Sony home sucks, don't like Sony's car line looks.

[Nova5]

Originally posted by Constrictor
I dont have any experience with the older Bose systems, but if its anything like the Monsoon system, then there are external amps that are built into the sound system that you'll need to bypass to get a good sound from an aftermarket head unit. This means running all new wires. Luckily, the F-body is one of the easiest cars Ive ever done an audio system on, so its really not so bad.



Actually.. its worse than a monsoon. Every speaker has a for itself last i heard.

Vice, there are VERY FEW doubledin HU's most are single din. however with a double you can get a Single Din HU AND a SingleDin Graphic Equalizer if you are so inclined.

[Mr. Anderson]

i like alpine h/u, or pioneer. I have had several decks of each brand and would recomend them.

[scruff]

I would go with alpine or pioneer. those are the two most reliable as far as radios are concerned. Also the bose ohmage that is being sent to the speakers should be 3. So What I would do is just replace the speakers. Run the speakers wires from your aftermarket deck back into the z mid console (the one behind the seat). Connect those wires to the output speakers wires from the amp. That takes care of the speakers. The sub I would get maybe a 200 watt sub amp because that bose sub is going to blow. I would get an aftermarkt sub to

[Cliff_J]

Huh, maybe blose in a Nissan is different. If so, the HU swap might be pretty easy. Pretty big "might" but it wouldn't be too hard to find a shop that might have at least tried this once. Or if you have an old HU laying around you could pick up a wiring adapter plug and give it a whirl. Who knows, with a decent consistent signal the system might sound good enough for a little while. But those auto-level things are there for a reason - to protect the speakers. Just having a straight signal that doesn't roll back the bass will likely kill the stock speakers after a while unless you don't turn it up very loud at all. :(

Cliff

[Constrictor]

DOH! I had no idea you were talking about your Nissan. When you say you have a Bose in your Z, I assumed you meant the 3 speaker Bose setups in the LT1 Z28s! :D

[Nova5]

Originally posted by Cliff_J
Huh, maybe blose in a Nissan is different. If so, the HU swap might be pretty easy. Pretty big "might" but it wouldn't be too hard to find a shop that might have at least tried this once. Or if you have an old HU laying around you could pick up a wiring adapter plug and give it a whirl. Who knows, with a decent consistent signal the system might sound good enough for a little while. But those auto-level things are there for a reason - to protect the speakers. Just having a straight signal that doesn't roll back the bass will likely kill the stock speakers after a while unless you don't turn it up very loud at all. :(

Cliff

auto-level is not for speaker protection.. sounds the same as out Speed Controlled Volume.

[Cliff_J]

Nova, check out the bass rollback on the Chevy Delco decks. Put in a 40Hz 0db signal and watch the output on your scope as you turn up the volume. At some point the bass will fluctuate up/down repeatedely, at least it did on the 2000 model year deck I tested, and stereo shops (esp the customers) have complained about this for a while. Since he said fluctuate, I assume it was similar, maybe its some other variety of no highs no lows. ;)

The SCV just seemed to be another inline gain with the volume when I played with it. While I thought the idea was really cool, using it did not make me want the Delco version in my Pontiac. :)

Cliff

[Nova5]

ahh, so its a effect of the shitty sound systems put in today that i wasn't aware of.

more reason to rip it all out and put in a full aftermarket rig.

No Highs, No Lows, Gotta be a Bose.

[Cliff_J]

LOL. Yeah, I guess its a real problem when the customer has to save up for the 23s and seven TVs but wants the stock deck in their escalade.:rolleyes:

Funny thing though, the stock decks have tons of bass boost too. Kinda like the effect a non-progressive throttle linkage or the torque converter in some of these import cars you get at a rental place where you step it down a 1/4" and you're like 'wow, I just touched it' and then you floor it and find out that's all the engine can do.

Cliff