car won't go any faster!!

[Goober]

I just swapped the cam and the stall in my car.

old cam
GT2-3
376 rwhp 390 rwtg (unlocked)
3000 2.1 str

new cam
old G5 cam
390rwhp 416rwtq (unlocked)
3800 2.5 str (it's artcarr stall. Yes I know an off-brand, but it came with the tranny and was free to swap.)

I picked up power but no time, just 3 mph. 60' stayed the same (1.76)

I have 3.23 LCA, TQ arm, TA cover, SFC and et's streets. What else do i need? Hals, pan hard bar, relocation brackets? Or should i just go grab a yank or a vig?

I am really pissed and not happy.

[Blacker]

When upgrading from a 3000/2.1 stall to a 3800/2.5 stall, you will get more grunt off the line. You should be in the 1.5's with that converter. Have you tried flashing vs. stalling? How was the car tuned and was the AFR good following the cam change? If the car is not lowered then, you should not need relo brackets and the PHR is not going to help you.

[killer01ws6]

Goober,
Blacker is on the money. But I have to ask..... You did get it retuned for the new cam, right?

[Goober]

yes the car was fully tuned for the new cam. I dont have a dyno with it on there because the used a wideband 02 to tune it. So the car is perfect. I have a feeling that it is the stall.

[killer01ws6]

At this time I think you are correct on the converter.

[Goober]

that is what i thought.

[jumpcable]

Would you all recomend that he get a smaller stall...like a 3500 or 3400, or should he go bigger? I'm just surious since my knowledge of autos isn't quite up to par. Thanks - Patrick :D

[Goober]

i fear that it is the stall. I do not even know who makes the stall. That might be the problem. It is realy efeshent but it does not get me off the line.

[renips]

Originally posted by Goober
I just swapped the cam and the stall in my car.

old cam
GT2-3
376 rwhp 390 rwtg (unlocked)
3000 2.1 str

new cam
old G5 cam
390rwhp 416rwtq (unlocked)
3800 2.5 str (it's artcarr stall. Yes I know an off-brand, but it came with the tranny and was free to swap.)

I picked up power but no time, just 3 mph. 60' stayed the same (1.76)

I have 3.23 LCA, TQ arm, TA cover, SFC and et's streets. What else do i need? Hals, pan hard bar, relocation brackets? Or should i just go grab a yank or a vig?

I am really pissed and not happy.

I don't think you should judge your power gain by your 60'. Case in point. A few weeks ago my brother had Headers - exhaust - high flow cats and LS1 tuning done to the car. The track he went to was located in Bradenton FL. It happened to have been a cold night there, in the low - mid 40's. Cold for Florida. He has some BF Goodrich DR's which he ran before the mods previously at the same track. On the first few passes he could not better his 60' and for that matter his ET. His mph though was about 3 mph. One of the guys who preps the track came over to him and told him that this particular track under these cold conditions required an amount of burnout or spinning of the tires to get them sufficiently hot for the colder surface. He was running 2.3 60's before this. He did what seemed like to him anyway a ridiculously long burnout and low and behold before the night was done he had a 1.6 60' and an 11.7 ET. I trhink your 60' might be a result of how many passes you were able to take. Also the track conditions come into play. The fact that you gained 3 mph which is a lot considering your mods is proof that along with the dyno that you are making more power. The 60' time is the one ingredient that the hardest to improve on and sometimes to maintain

[jrp]

you gained 3mph and your not happy :confused:. do you have an overlay of the 2 dyno's so you can see the new power band and optimize your shift points around it.

[jumpcable]

JRP is right...you only gained about twenty hp/tq with the new combo. You really need to compare the dyno charts to see where the new curve is. You might have gained some hp/tq up high allowing to to turn some higher MPH but down low the car could have lost some causing you to run the same time. It is a very big balancing act between traction, weather, torque curves, and setups. Post up some before and after dyno charts and maybe someone here can analyze it for you. :D

[Goober]

I will get the dyno over lay saturday. It can tell you that i make way more power under the curve than i did. So there should not be a problem there.

Yes i gained 3mph and no time so hell yes i am fucking pissed about that.:mad:

[Goober]

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/G5%20cam.jpg


Here are my dyno numbers. On the G5

[Goober]

Here are my dyno on the GT2-3.http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/MYgt2-3camdyno.jpg

[jumpcable]

Those aren't bad numbers for a car without headwork. Can't see the G5 lines, but in the LPE chart would that heavy dip around 3700 be his stall? Or because he was running really rich at that point? Just trying to learn how to decifer these graphs. - Patrick

[Goober]

The dip at the end is because of the 118.5 lsa on the cam. It just musters out. Yes i have head work. A Z06 with ported Stage one heades(stock valves) and this cam made 429rwhp. So this cam is right on pair.

[jumpcable]

Cool...I'm still new at interpreting dyno charts. Have you run the car consistantly at the track with only a 3 MPH gain. If not, maybe some outside factors were causing the differences.

[Goober]

my times are 7.612 7.611 7.619 7.615. I could braket race all day. I would dead hook out of the hole every time.

[killer01ws6]

Well now that I see that Goober.....
I am not so sure about a slipping converter...
it would get worse after it got hot ...
You are very consistent in your runs.

[Goober]

I have a tranny cooler on it but i konw it still get hot. With the my race prep tranny the car started to run very consistent. But i dont care about that i want to go fast. If there was a post for the fastest R/T i would have had it. .001:D

[jumpcable]

Car is very consistant...maybe should have gone with a bigger cam. :dunno: