Bratvold
11-11-2005, 10:10 PM
Moser 12-bolt review
Source: Got mine through LS1 Speed
Reason: Quicker to get than Strange
Looks: Nice, clean welds.
Drive: Feels very solid compared to stock. I attribute this to the fact that the axles are welded to the differential.
4.11 gears are very nice
What you will need before hand:
Sway bar installation kit (since axle housing are bigger).
8 bolts & washers (8-grade) for T-bolts that hold on brake backing plates.
1 NAPA 447 U-Joint
5 Qt. of non-synthetic gear lube.
1 bottle of GM slip additive.
Transmission jack
Small bottle jack (was really helpful for me)
Optional, but maybe necessary.....adjustable panhard bar.
Dremel tool
Rubber Mallet
Red Locktite.
Removal:
This is not a problem. Just be careful it doesn't bonk you in the head.
Prep:
Since I have a LS1 car the axle assembly is...Axle hat, Brake backing plate, Bearing (O-ring facing outside), bearing spacer ring. LT1 cars have a couple extra steps.
***Note*** Make sure you place the speed sensor on the backing plate BEFORE you tighten them down to the axle. If you don't your will be mad since the a allocated notch in axle for it isn't big enough when the backing plate is bolted on. It's possible to get them on by using a rubber mallet if you forget though (that’s how I found out)
***Note*** You do not need to remove the e-brake lining when removing it from the stock axle (since the axle slides out first), but you will to remove it when trying to bolt the backing to the new axle. I wasted time trying to figure out how I was suppose to tighten down the T-bolts to the axle.
Install:
I'm not going to talk about everything, just the parts that I had a problem with or had to modify.
I was all by myself, so I started by attaching the LCAs, then the shocks (I didn't worry about the springs at this point).
***Note*** You will need to grind metal from parts of the LCA/brake bracket before reinstalling since it hits welded joints. Before you tighten the LCA bolts, clamp the bracket to the rear end using a vice grip.
I then installed the drive shaft then the torque arm
This is when the bottle jack came in handy. Using the transmission jack to get the differential at the right height I then used the bottle jack to point the differential up or down to get the right angle. The arm slide right in and lined up perfectly.
I then removed the shocks again, put the springs in and put the shocks back in.
Installed the swaybar using the installation kit.
***Note*** The shock perches on mine were moved VERY close to the sway bar compared to stock. Play with the placement until you get just a little space between the shock and the bar. The bar doesn't bend to the side so don't worry about that during driving....the bar only twists up and down so as long as their is a gap you will be okay.
***Note*** There is a chance you will need difference bushing brackets since the holes aren’t big enough and far enough part. I used a dremel to grind the hole big enough. This is a temporary fix until I buy the correct one.
Do not install the panhard bar yet.....it only gets into the way.
Add your fluid and additive.
Now you can reattached the panhard bar.
Test and have fun.
Source: Got mine through LS1 Speed
Reason: Quicker to get than Strange
Looks: Nice, clean welds.
Drive: Feels very solid compared to stock. I attribute this to the fact that the axles are welded to the differential.
4.11 gears are very nice
What you will need before hand:
Sway bar installation kit (since axle housing are bigger).
8 bolts & washers (8-grade) for T-bolts that hold on brake backing plates.
1 NAPA 447 U-Joint
5 Qt. of non-synthetic gear lube.
1 bottle of GM slip additive.
Transmission jack
Small bottle jack (was really helpful for me)
Optional, but maybe necessary.....adjustable panhard bar.
Dremel tool
Rubber Mallet
Red Locktite.
Removal:
This is not a problem. Just be careful it doesn't bonk you in the head.
Prep:
Since I have a LS1 car the axle assembly is...Axle hat, Brake backing plate, Bearing (O-ring facing outside), bearing spacer ring. LT1 cars have a couple extra steps.
***Note*** Make sure you place the speed sensor on the backing plate BEFORE you tighten them down to the axle. If you don't your will be mad since the a allocated notch in axle for it isn't big enough when the backing plate is bolted on. It's possible to get them on by using a rubber mallet if you forget though (that’s how I found out)
***Note*** You do not need to remove the e-brake lining when removing it from the stock axle (since the axle slides out first), but you will to remove it when trying to bolt the backing to the new axle. I wasted time trying to figure out how I was suppose to tighten down the T-bolts to the axle.
Install:
I'm not going to talk about everything, just the parts that I had a problem with or had to modify.
I was all by myself, so I started by attaching the LCAs, then the shocks (I didn't worry about the springs at this point).
***Note*** You will need to grind metal from parts of the LCA/brake bracket before reinstalling since it hits welded joints. Before you tighten the LCA bolts, clamp the bracket to the rear end using a vice grip.
I then installed the drive shaft then the torque arm
This is when the bottle jack came in handy. Using the transmission jack to get the differential at the right height I then used the bottle jack to point the differential up or down to get the right angle. The arm slide right in and lined up perfectly.
I then removed the shocks again, put the springs in and put the shocks back in.
Installed the swaybar using the installation kit.
***Note*** The shock perches on mine were moved VERY close to the sway bar compared to stock. Play with the placement until you get just a little space between the shock and the bar. The bar doesn't bend to the side so don't worry about that during driving....the bar only twists up and down so as long as their is a gap you will be okay.
***Note*** There is a chance you will need difference bushing brackets since the holes aren’t big enough and far enough part. I used a dremel to grind the hole big enough. This is a temporary fix until I buy the correct one.
Do not install the panhard bar yet.....it only gets into the way.
Add your fluid and additive.
Now you can reattached the panhard bar.
Test and have fun.