WAHUSKER
04-05-2004, 10:58 PM
Not sure where to post this, but if you think it's worthy of sharing, please do. I had some issues installing these, and after getting an expert over to help, I decided to document the deviations form the LS1HowTo.com instructions.
Mark
Harland Sharp Rocker Installation
Removal
For the removal of the old rocker arms, I used the Yella Terra rocker arm instructions on LS1HowTo.com. However I had problems with them for installation of the new rocker arms, so I have tried to come up with a better way. This process is something you almost need to know how to do before you can do it. It helps to know how it’s supposed to feel when it’s it right. So I suggest loosening the stock rocker arms on one of the cylinders when you are taking it apart, tightening it down & re-torquing it. Then you will know what it is supposed to feel like when it’s right. This should help you recognize when it’s wrong. It doesn’t matter which cylinder you use. Pick one, find TDC on it & proceed. Just remember which one it was, and start with that one when you install the new parts.
Installation
First you will need to check if the new rocker arms have any interference fit issues with the head castings. Usually the 4 rockers on the outside corners are the ones that need to be ground / sanded down. My car needed the intake rockers on cylinders 2 & 7 machined. My friends needed the intake rockers on cylinders 1, 2, 7 & 8 machined. They will be close, so try to run a feeler gauge between the rocker arm & the head. I’m not sure what the minimum requirement is, but I have well over .030 on mine. Color the area with a magic marker that needs to be machined. A bench grinder or belt sander works well. It doesn’t take much, and take care not to go into the pushrod cup on the underside.
Next you’ll need to determine if your rocker arms need shims. To accomplish this, start with the cylinder you found TDC on, again it doesn’t matter which one it is. Screw the rocker arm bolts down until they’re finger tight (you must turn both down at the same time). Then using your wrench turn them until they seat, this should be less than 1 turn…..you can feel it, they will stop, and make sure the valve springs do NOT compress during this part. Then torque them to 22 ft/lbs making sure it takes less than 1 turn to get there, and again make sure the valve springs do not compress. If it fails any part of this process, you need shims. You can buy a set of shims from Jegs, or use .050 stainless steel washers like I did (per Nasty Performance’s instructions).
To check to see if you did this part right, loosen the bolts. If the springs come up at all, you need shims. And don’t feel bad if they were compressed & you didn’t notice. It can be very subtle. Once you figure out if you need shims on the first cylinder, you simply put the rest together the same way. Unless you are anal and then you can check each & every one.
Now you will need to make sure the rocker arms clear the valve covers. If you needed to use shims, you are more likely to have clearance issues, especially with the 1.8 rockers. This is a 2 man operation. (Remove the fuel pump fuse) After installing all the rocker arms, take the gaskets off the valve covers & hold them tight on the engine. If you don’t have issue without the gaskets, you won’t have any when they are compressed (torqued to 8 ft/lbs). Turn the engine over & feel & listen for ANY contact on the valve covers. It can be anything from the slightest tick, to knocking the valve cover off the head. If you feel or hear anything you need to either clearance the valve covers (a ball peen hammer & a dremel tool works well) or buy valve cover spacers ($260 from Tbyrne). If you are going to machine them, color the inside of the cover with a magic marker & hold them on the engine & turn it over again. The rocker arms will leave little shiny marks wherever they hit. Pay close attention to the PCV baffle on the driver’s side, and all of the coil pack bolt bosses. Continue to beat & grind & check until you get ZERO contact.
1.8 Ratio Rocker Arms
I would highly suggest replacing the stock valve springs when installing these higher ratio rocker arms. I did not & my valves floated at 5500 rpm. Kinda defeats the purpose of this mod all together!
Mark
Harland Sharp Rocker Installation
Removal
For the removal of the old rocker arms, I used the Yella Terra rocker arm instructions on LS1HowTo.com. However I had problems with them for installation of the new rocker arms, so I have tried to come up with a better way. This process is something you almost need to know how to do before you can do it. It helps to know how it’s supposed to feel when it’s it right. So I suggest loosening the stock rocker arms on one of the cylinders when you are taking it apart, tightening it down & re-torquing it. Then you will know what it is supposed to feel like when it’s right. This should help you recognize when it’s wrong. It doesn’t matter which cylinder you use. Pick one, find TDC on it & proceed. Just remember which one it was, and start with that one when you install the new parts.
Installation
First you will need to check if the new rocker arms have any interference fit issues with the head castings. Usually the 4 rockers on the outside corners are the ones that need to be ground / sanded down. My car needed the intake rockers on cylinders 2 & 7 machined. My friends needed the intake rockers on cylinders 1, 2, 7 & 8 machined. They will be close, so try to run a feeler gauge between the rocker arm & the head. I’m not sure what the minimum requirement is, but I have well over .030 on mine. Color the area with a magic marker that needs to be machined. A bench grinder or belt sander works well. It doesn’t take much, and take care not to go into the pushrod cup on the underside.
Next you’ll need to determine if your rocker arms need shims. To accomplish this, start with the cylinder you found TDC on, again it doesn’t matter which one it is. Screw the rocker arm bolts down until they’re finger tight (you must turn both down at the same time). Then using your wrench turn them until they seat, this should be less than 1 turn…..you can feel it, they will stop, and make sure the valve springs do NOT compress during this part. Then torque them to 22 ft/lbs making sure it takes less than 1 turn to get there, and again make sure the valve springs do not compress. If it fails any part of this process, you need shims. You can buy a set of shims from Jegs, or use .050 stainless steel washers like I did (per Nasty Performance’s instructions).
To check to see if you did this part right, loosen the bolts. If the springs come up at all, you need shims. And don’t feel bad if they were compressed & you didn’t notice. It can be very subtle. Once you figure out if you need shims on the first cylinder, you simply put the rest together the same way. Unless you are anal and then you can check each & every one.
Now you will need to make sure the rocker arms clear the valve covers. If you needed to use shims, you are more likely to have clearance issues, especially with the 1.8 rockers. This is a 2 man operation. (Remove the fuel pump fuse) After installing all the rocker arms, take the gaskets off the valve covers & hold them tight on the engine. If you don’t have issue without the gaskets, you won’t have any when they are compressed (torqued to 8 ft/lbs). Turn the engine over & feel & listen for ANY contact on the valve covers. It can be anything from the slightest tick, to knocking the valve cover off the head. If you feel or hear anything you need to either clearance the valve covers (a ball peen hammer & a dremel tool works well) or buy valve cover spacers ($260 from Tbyrne). If you are going to machine them, color the inside of the cover with a magic marker & hold them on the engine & turn it over again. The rocker arms will leave little shiny marks wherever they hit. Pay close attention to the PCV baffle on the driver’s side, and all of the coil pack bolt bosses. Continue to beat & grind & check until you get ZERO contact.
1.8 Ratio Rocker Arms
I would highly suggest replacing the stock valve springs when installing these higher ratio rocker arms. I did not & my valves floated at 5500 rpm. Kinda defeats the purpose of this mod all together!