Put my mind to rest...98 LS1 < 99+ ?

[Camaro_SLP]

For whatever reason..I somewhat look down on the 98 LS1..I guess I do this because it was the first year introduced in the F-body. I can't find the list of differences between 98-02..so maybe some of you can help me.

I have a chance to buy a very low mileage 98 engine/trans for a swap I'm going to be doing.

Are there any reasons to think 98 < 99+ ?

[Stew]

no but 01-02>98-00,if you plan on modding any LS1 the differences are negligible....

[LS1 2001 Z28]

Wll the 98's are in my opinion a little better than the 99's because they have the larger injectors and a temperature gauge that works (wont do you any good since your swapping). And i have also heard they do not have nearly as many cases of piston slap as the newer ones. And as far as being the first year that isnt exactly true because the ls1 was in the 97 vettes so its the second year Ls1. One thing i have heard is that the 98 and 99's have a weak oil pump. I dont have either but from what i have read the 98's seem pretty good. Hope i have helped ya out.

[jrp]

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/519275/4

[Unstang]

Unless you were getting an '02, I'd go for a '98, the differences in the other years are too few. Plus the '98s have the 28.8 injectors. I am a biased '98 owner though. I have had ZERO oil consumption or piston slap, my car has 48k on it. (knock on wood)

[URLUZN]

Aren't there minute cam differences?

[FastAl]

Originally posted by URLUZN
Aren't there minute cam differences? Not until 01, when the cam was changed to the smaller truck cam and the 'EGR was eliminated.

[killer01ws6]

Originally posted by LS1 2001 Z28
Wll the 98's are in my opinion a little better than the 99's because they have the larger injectors and a temperature gauge that works (wont do you any good since your swapping). And i have also heard they do not have nearly as many cases of piston slap as the newer ones. And as far as being the first year that isnt exactly true because the ls1 was in the 97 vettes so its the second year Ls1. One thing i have heard is that the 98 and 99's have a weak oil pump. I dont have either but from what i have read the 98's seem pretty good. Hope i have helped ya out.

I agree with all of this minus the 98 and 99 having bad oil pumps.
The 99's had a bad batch from the factory. Some of them failed as soon as 15k or so miles. if it had one of them.... you would have known by now.
the 98's did not have this, and any others out there by now are back to normal,( on the shelf) the exception would be if you found a very low mileage 99 that had been stored, I may change it out under those conditions.

[jmd]

98's have some peculiarities, but for me the fact that (I think) they have just as much PCM tuning support seals the deal; nothing wrong with 'em. They're not "olde and hard to get parts for" by any means, being 6 years olde, so I don't think they're one to avoid.

Another difference is the accessory belts changed a bit 98 to 99 in the F's. Best of luck with your swap.

-Matthew

[FastAl]

Oh just remembered that 98's also had different valve cover bolt pattern and that the coil packs were bolted to the valve covers and not on a rail.

[bRa_DeN]

it seems like every stock 98 dynos lower than most other stock ls1's for all the other years;)

[LS1 2001 Z28]

My buddy with a 98 has did incredable at the track when he was nearly stock. He may just be lucky and have a freak though. and thank you killer01ws6 for clearing up the oil pump thing. I just remeber hearing it somewhere.

[Unstang]

Originally posted by bRa_DeN
it seems like every stock 98 dynos lower than most other stock ls1's for all the other years;)

Maybe a little bit over all...I was happy with my A4--->302/325 with a lid & cutout.

[SSean]

I dont have any prolbems with my '98. Oil pump never missed a tick, and pumped just as good as new until it was replaced at....70k miles during a cam swap. No oil consumption, no piston slap. Dyno'd 320rwhp with the SLP dual/dual cat-back off an '02SS and a Lid....no complaints here ;) but like mentioned before, if your upgrading....doesnt make a difference

edit: wait a min, I do have one complaint.....peramiter bolt valve covers :mad:

[SSean]

Originally posted by bRa_DeN
it seems like every stock 98 dynos lower than most other stock ls1's for all the other years;)

the '00 and up I belive, maybe this started in '01, had better flowing exhaust manifolds. The '01 and up also had better intake (the LS6) as well.

[killer01ws6]

Originally posted by Arctic98z
the '00 and up I belive, maybe this started in '01, had better flowing exhaust manifolds. The '01 and up also had better intake (the LS6) as well.

This is true, which is why the 01 and 02's dyno better than the older cars.

but take a 98 and a 02.

add: Headers, catback, lid, asp even H/C
they will be neck and neck on HP at that point.

Once you start doing all of the bolt ons, the playing field gets level quickly.

[NightHawk WS6]

all years of the LS1 have their advantages/disadvantages....id go for it man, nothing wrong with the 98's, my buddy loves his 98 and I my 99

[jrp]

the only thing i hate about my 98 is the specific PCM; takes tuners extra time to get 98 setups out :(. and i hate the perimeter bolt vavle covers and individual coil pack setup. it gets very old removing them to take the vavle covers off.

other then that i would recommend an 98 without question. especially if you plan for extensive mods, 98's can be had for under 10k now :cool:

[AtomicVette]

never had any problems with my oil pump on my 98 it's almot at 100k miles, The cam is marginally bigger in the 98 as well. The PCM differences is by far the worst difference in my opinion, but it's not a big enough difference to decide that the 99+'s are better. The maf frequency is smaller wich in turn doesn't allow the maf to read higher flow numbers, and some of the functions in LS1 edit and EFI live don't work on the 98 mostly small stuff like the IAC motor control feature. But hey, at least my Temp Guage works! :cool: :drive:

[Camaro_SLP]

Thanks for all the input so far.

It seems like the only negative is the PCM. Would it still be easy to bypass VATS on the 98' PCM?

[slow]

yes it would be easy to bypass :)


and once hp tuners comes out with their 98 program, im buying a copy, and could help you with the computer needs ;)

ryan

[Blacker]

If you have LS1 Edit, the PCM is not an issue;)

[jrp]

Originally posted by slow
yes it would be easy to bypass :)


and once hp tuners comes out with their 98 program, im buying a copy, and could help you with the computer needs ;)

ryan

im hoping to pick up the hp tuner shit as well. hope it turns out to be all it seems to be.

[Camaro_SLP]

I have a choice between a 2001 engine and a 1998 engine.

The 2001 has over 10k miles more than the 98, it would cost a few hundred dollars more, shipping would be a bitch, it's missing a lot of parts I would need for the swap, and it's on the other side of the country. :)

The 98 has lower miles, more parts, cheaper, and local.

I think I'll go with the 98.... :slash:

Only the 98 cluster works with the 98, correct?

Fueling is another concern. I want to go with the plastic fuel tank, but

93-98: Metal fuel tanks w/0-90 ohm fuel level sender.
99-02: Plastic fuel tanks w/40-240 ohm fuel level sender.

Would the fuel gauge be fuxed up if I went that route?

Again, I appreciate all the info. It's definetely helping me make my decision.

[slow]

fuel gauge would be messed up :( no easy fix for that.



Ryan.

[ssmokn98]

I love my 98...no piston slap 73K miles, oil pump is good, dyno'd 318 rwhp/337 ft lbs with a lid and loudmouth.

[wannafbody]

the nicest thing about the 98's is the perimeter bolt heads- patriot performance offers 98 style stage 2 heads for $999- a steal for a build up

[DrEvyl]

Originally posted by jrp
the only thing i hate about my 98 is the specific PCM; takes tuners extra time to get 98 setups out :(. and i hate the perimeter bolt vavle covers and individual coil pack setup. it gets very old removing them to take the vavle covers off.

other then that i would recommend an 98 without question. especially if you plan for extensive mods, 98's can be had for under 10k now :cool:

:werd:

The ECM on '98s can be a bit finicky, and LS1Edit is the only real option for doing any tweaking.

I got my Formula for $9500.

[jrp]

Originally posted by wannafbody
the nicest thing about the 98's is the perimeter bolt heads- patriot performance offers 98 style stage 2 heads for $999- a steal for a build up

actually is 995 ;), but :werd: you cant beat that price :cool:, though.

[JCS30TH]

I had a 98Z with 70k miles and it ran strong with no trouble at all. My brother has a 98 Ram Air with 40k miles. Same deal..

[Camaro_SLP]

Would any LS1 radiator fit in my car? Does year matter, or if it was automatic/manual?

[jmd]

I don't know what the differences are, but a different PN exists for a 98-99 radiator from the 00-02. A manual car won't have a TOC (trans. oil cooler) in it though.

[Camaro_SLP]

I figure I'll continue my questions in this post..don't want to keep making new topics for every little question.

approx. how much should LS1 k-members cost? I've only found one online so far..for $300. Seems pretty steep. Anyone know of good reputation online junkyards?

As long as we're on the subject of what OEM used parts should cost..what should I look to spend on a full LS1 radiator with hoses and duel cooling fans? Obviously prices will vary..but I would like a ballpark figure, so I don't get ripped off.

I know you all want to help me out on finding the cheapest priced parts :p :D

-LS1 Radiator w/ duel cooling fans and all hoses
-V8 springs
-LS1 plastic fuel tank with fuel pump, fuel lines
-LS1 K-member
-Power steering pump

ONCE AGAIN, your help is appreciated :)

[jmd]

You really need to post the year / make / model your car is. I can assume it's a 93-97 f-body, but that doesn't make it so. :D If it is indeed an f-body, you'd be a fool not to acquire a whole car (wrecked or similar) for the drivetrain and associated parts.

[Camaro_SLP]

Originally posted by jmd
You really need to post the year / make / model your car is. I can assume it's a 93-97 f-body, but that doesn't make it so. :D If it is indeed an f-body, you'd be a fool not to acquire a whole car (wrecked or similar) for the drivetrain and associated parts.

That's what my mechanic continually tells me. I on the hand believe that I can get everything for a better cost without buying a whole vehicle.

A wrecked F-body with the parts I would need in working condition costs ~ $4,000+ ..+ cost of shipping.

I had someone offer me engine/trans/wiring/ecu etc everything for $2500. He's local, and the engine is very low mileage too. The things he doesn't have included are what I listed I'm looking for.

This will be going into a 94 Camaro.

Would you still recommend getting the entire car?

[jmd]

That's what my mechanic continually tells me. I on the hand believe that I can get everything for a better cost without buying a whole vehicle.

A wrecked F-body with the parts I would need in working condition costs ~ $4,000+ ..+ cost of shipping.I had someone offer me engine/trans/wiring/ecu etc everything for $2500. He's local, and the engine is very low mileage too. The things he doesn't have included are what I listed I'm looking for.


And w/ a whole vehicle you're much much more likely to have everything for the swap instead of "most of it." If you buy the 2500$ and are out a MAF sensor because the engine saw some rain, there's $ right there. Spare tires, seats, console, interior, rear end, brakes that are sellable, and the list goes on.

Not only that, but all the little brackets & bits will kill you trying to chase those down. When you go to install parts in the 94, you'll have the 98 or 2001 as a point of reference. That right there is worth something to you as well.

I think you get the idea. I need to replace a 4bbl SBC in one of my cars w/ a gen II or gen II / A4 combo, and I will not buy a drivetrain; I'll be buying a whole car. Unless your LT1 is for sale for the right price :rotfl: Really, unless you already have a couple LS1 parts cars around, you're better off getting the whole car. Guys who buy parts spend more than guys who buy cars.

Originally posted by Camaro_SLP
will be going into a 94 Camaro.

Thanks. Details will get ya. :)

[jmd]

I almost forgot; I'm 99% sure the LT1 radiator will work with the LS1. f-body LT1's had an extra coolant line which ran to the drivers side radiator side tank. This is something that can be capped off. And the inlet neck on the DS (drivers side) is lower I believe but should still work.

[Camaro_SLP]

It's actually a 94 Camaro V6...not an LT1 ;)

I suppose buying a wrecked car will pay off in the end,,

By the end of this project,,I'll pretty much just have kept the 'shell' of the car..everything basically needs to be changed.
I need a whole new dash so the 98+ gauge cluster can fit, suspension, fueling, brake system..everything!

I went ahead and declined the mans generous offer for his engine. I'm also still not 100% convinced about the 98 engine..only because the PCM issues :D

This leads me to one of my last questions for now..I have $$ and I need direction on wrecked cars. I will check my local junk yards,,but I don't imagine there will be a plethora of LS1 cars to choose from. Can you shoot me some websites of good places to look for this type of deal?

jmd..the small parts missing, and parts not working is exaclty what my mechanic was trying to knock into me. This would all be found out during the swap..so finding those small parts takes a minimum of 1 day to get..plus the the cost adds up..He said it can easily turn into a few weeks project.

Thanks again for shining some light on the reality of the swap. :cool:

[TreeGreenZ]

My 98 runs similar times to my buddies 01 SS, and his dynoed something like 325/340. So I don't think there is anything wrong with the 98's. Besides mine really isn't a 98 any more.....