Recommended Suspension Upgrades?

[kasim]

I was thinking of doing upgrades on suspension ... and was looking at some of the packages and cant really decide on what to do? Any suggestions???

Also any idea on how much these cost to get installed?

[TR]

What kind of driving do you want the mods to affect the most?

Dragstrip? Handling? General Street?

[kasim]

I want to handle well. My car is for general street driving, i would only take it to a drag strip MAYBE once a year if that.

But basically i just want great handling when driving around the street. I just notice how much better my friends SS even handles. gnanted launching better as well would be nice.

Soo ... basically probably looking for more of a good "all around".

[FastAl]

Regardless of what you want to do, Subframe Connectors should be first. If you are going to do Autocross you have to be careful what SFC's you use I think. For all around handling Strut Tower Brace, Adjustable Panhard Rod are good starting points. Slightly larger front and rear Sway Bars.

[kasim]

Yeah i was DEFINETLY going to do the Subframe connectors from everything i have read seems like a must.

I guess maybe should be more specific.

I have been cruising the parts site.

And noticed a lot of have suspension packages.

like that slp level 1, i believe there is an slp 1le package (although it says fo 00-02 cars) , and i notced a Hotchkis TVS package

Would ya'll recommend any of those? If so? Which one?

Thanks.
Joseph

[JSTAZ28]

I think for your aplication i would recommend a 1LE front sway, SFC (does'nt need to be DD SFC), STB. If you want to go a little more you can get a set springs (i like the pro-kit), APHR, RLB. If you want to go more than that look at my sig. I love the way my car handles. If you want a smooth ride i would stay away from stiff springs and stiff shocks. My ride is really stiff but i like it that way so it does not bother me to much. I hope this helps.

[kasim]

So any suggestions on brands to go with or brands to stay away from??

I know most people seem to dis SLP products on here. So is that the same with the suspension stuff?

[XLR8]

I'll continue the dissing of the SLP stuff. I hate my ride.
I have the SLP Level 1...sucks! Damn shocks and struts only lasted 19k miles. I gotta look into warranty but I doubt there is one. Not only did they go fast, but it was hardly an upgrade. The front end actually went up a hair - lame...the back end sat perfectly. RANT, RANT, RANT...

[kasim]

ok strike 3 for SLP :)

So anythign you WOULD recommend?

[XLR8]

Originally posted by kasim
ok strike 3 for SLP :)

So anythign you WOULD recommend?

Yes! But I'm at a lose for words at the moment...I'll post when I can recall.

[wannafbody]

Bilsteins

[brandon1221]

bilstein shocks for the rear, koni SA struts up front. When i was looking into better handleing they said that with a 1LE front sway bar would make the best difference.

[kasim]

Originally posted by brandon1221
bilstein shocks for the rear, koni SA struts up front. When i was looking into better handleing they said that with a 1LE front sway bar would make the best difference.

so its fine to have two different types of shocks on your car?

[Sam Strano]

Ok, I'm going to disagree that SFC's should be the first thing you add. I don't have them on my car, and they don't drive poorly for it, and are much better than any car with SFC's and other inferior suspension parts.

Shocks, shocks, shocks. Shocks are the first thing you should do. If you are inclide to do lowering springs, that would be wise at the same time. But shocks are the weakest link in a 4th gen f-car's suspension, bar NONE.

You don't need a "kit". Start with shocks. Next, if you feel you need it after the huge change from decent shocks, we'll look at other things, most notably the front swaybar. And we go from there.

[-=boM=-]

I have SLP Bilsteins shocks/struts (any aftermarket shocks are a must, depends on how soft/hard you want your ride)(I had KYB GAJ and they handled spectacular, but the ride was rough and the rear was reall boucy at speeds over 120mph)
SLP Bolt on Sub Frame Connectors (a must if you plan to have exteme amounts of power)
Eibach Pro Kit Springs (any aftermarket spings are a must)
BMR Strut Tower Brace (questionable mod), Boxed LCA (a must), Relocation Brackets (a must if lowered) and Adj. Pan Hard Rod (a must if lowered)
Random Tech. Adj. TA (a must if you are a power junkie)(Bought from SAM)
Stock Sway bars
17x11 TT2s w 315/35-17 (Sumitumo GTZ R) all 4
What am I forgeting? I feel like I am missing something. Oh well.

I love my set up. Not to hard, not to soft and can take a 90* turn with ease at 40mph, just have to hold on tight or you'll go out the window.

[FastAl]

As far as brand goes, I've been very happen with BMR which is most of my suspension at this point. I do have the Spohn Torque Arm with the spherical rod bearing and it is good for track bad for daily driving.

[kasim]

Hey thanks alll ... i think i have an idea for my first round of upgrades.

I am going to go with :
Bilstein Rear Shocks
Koni SA Stuts Front
1 LE Front & Rear Sway Bar
Hotchkis STB
Hotchkis SBC

--Sound good?
I am debating the lowering springs since i am planning to get bigger rims this summer. (probably 18s maybe 17)

[Sam Strano]

Originally posted by kasim
Hey thanks alll ... i think i have an idea for my first round of upgrades.

I am going to go with :
Bilstein Rear Shocks
Koni SA Stuts Front
1 LE Front & Rear Sway Bar
Hotchkis STB
Hotchkis SBC

--Sound good?
I am debating the lowering springs since i am planning to get bigger rims this summer. (probably 18s maybe 17)

Good idea on the shocks. I'd pass on the STB, and personally on the SFC's too, but you probably want them too sometime and they certainly don't hurt.

But, I want to talk to you about the swaybars..... I wouldn't recommend 1LE bars front and rear for a couple of reasons. 1. The car responds very well to larger front bars. We use 35mm bar all the time. A swaybar is much more effective for roll control than are springs and don't have the ride quality or ride compliance penalty. Bascially with a bigger bar you get perks without a real downside..... on the front. On the rear: The reason I would not use a 1LE rear with a 1LE front is balance and traction. No 1LE ever came with a 32 front/21mm rear bar *and* stock Z28 springs all around. The '93 car that had a 32/21 also had stiffer front springs and stock rear springs. The 94+ cars used a 19mm rear bar with stiffer front and rear springs. What I'm saying is a Z28 with "1LE" bars front and back is actually softer in the front relative to the rear than a 1LE was. By using a 35mm front with a 1LE or hollow 22mm rear bar, you get the wheel rates more like a 1LE.

I know, a lot of folks have that kind of setup and like it. But just because it's better than stock doesn't mean it's all there is. Most folks do not have the ability to try multiple setups, where I do. I try things for two reasons. Because I autox and can't afford to not have the car as good as I can, and it keeps customers informed on exactly what X, Y, or Z will do to the car.

[kasim]

Ok .... soo.

So your saying i should get
35mm front sway bar
and
(1LE or hollow) 22mm rear bar

Would that then be better that sticking with the 1LE's front and back and ALSO adding Springs (like prokit or hotchkis) .... or would i at that point start to have to add a lot?

Sorry .... i am not really that great with understanding the suspension components.

[deadpool]

Originally posted by Sam Strano
Ok, I'm going to disagree that SFC's should be the first thing you add. I don't have them on my car, and they don't drive poorly for it, and are much better than any car with SFC's and other inferior suspension parts.

Shocks, shocks, shocks. Shocks are the first thing you should do. If you are inclide to do lowering springs, that would be wise at the same time. But shocks are the weakest link in a 4th gen f-car's suspension, bar NONE.

You don't need a "kit". Start with shocks. Next, if you feel you need it after the huge change from decent shocks, we'll look at other things, most notably the front swaybar. And we go from there.

This could probably apply to this thread!

I'm curious, Sam, do you think that a lowered car doesn't need lca's and relocation brackets if it's lowered? I thought that this helps re-center the rear end? On that note, you told me that an APHR is eventually needed on a lowered car for re-centering. Thanks for your help on everything, Sam. You sure know your stuff!:D

[Sam Strano]

Originally posted by deadpool

I'm curious, Sam, do you think that a lowered car doesn't need lca's and relocation brackets if it's lowered? I thought that this helps re-center the rear end? On that note, you told me that an APHR is eventually needed on a lowered car for re-centering. Thanks for your help on everything, Sam. You sure know your stuff!:D

I do not feel that stuff is needed. I don't run it on my car, and considering I can outrun Z06's at National autocrosses that kind of proves the point. Those things have their uses, I just have the call for any of them, and the myth they are "needed" isn't true.

The LCA's don't recenter the rear end, that's the PHB. And I like having the LCA's pointed slightly downhill. It makes the rear more stable on turn-in @ speed because it causes some roll understeer.

[deadpool]

Originally posted by Sam Strano
I do not feel that stuff is needed. I don't run it on my car, and considering I can outrun Z06's at National autocrosses that kind of proves the point. Those things have their uses, I just have the call for any of them, and the myth they are "needed" isn't true.

The LCA's don't recenter the rear end, that's the PHB. And I like having the LCA's pointed slightly downhill. It makes the rear more stable on turn-in @ speed because it causes some roll understeer.

Thanks, Sam! Like I said, "You sure know your stuff!" :thumbup:

[Sam Strano]

:o

[1BadMoFo]

STAY AWAY FROM SLP.....just because their customer service is absolutely horrendous!