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View Full Version : Tranny Help PLease


Transamant99
02-18-2004, 12:13 AM
On my 99 Z28 6spd my tranny is acting really weird lately. The other day sittin in a toll booth i went to pull forward after the person in front left and the car wouldn't go in gear. I tried a couple more times, lettin off the clutch then pushing it back in and finally got it. The later it would seem like it wouldn't want to go into gears every now and again (it's not a specific one, it's fairly random) Today backin out of the driveway it got stuck in reverse and was makin a hummin noise. I had to shut the car off and restart to get it out of gear. Any ideas as to what's goin on. Car has 65k on it, i bouth it used a bout a month ago now. So i don't have too much info on it before then. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and or help you guys have. I appreciate it.

`Transamant

jmd
02-18-2004, 03:43 AM
The clutch release system on the 98-up LS1's has a deficiency or two. :)

The line going from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder is physically narrowed down (near the master cylinder) to a diameter approximately half the size of the rest of the line.

This slows down the release of the clutch. And it slows down the apply of the clutch. Bad for the clutch, and bad for drivability, as you're finding out. The only thing is does is save some abuse of the u-joints & rear end.

You MUST do the drill mod for the 98-02 f-body clutch to work properly. This involves removing the master cylinder & line, drilling it out, flushing chips out w/ brake fluid and reinstalling. A well written description of this is on installuniversity.com

Bleeding the system using the JMD method® also gets all the air out. After you bleed some brake fluid through the system out the bleeder at the bellhousing and it's coming out clear, you recirculate the fluid repeatedly for 5-10 minutes and all air is gone.

To do this, I crack the bleeder, and install a hose with a spark plug boot on the bottom end on the bleeder; the top end of the hose goes in the reservoir at the firewall. Have someone hold the line up top and watch for bubbles. Pump the pedal slowly all the way through it's travel for minimum 5 minutes. As long as the boot is sealed to the hose and to the bleeder, you should have NO bubbles. Again, this should only be done after fresh fluid has displaced olde dirty fluid.

killer01ws6
02-18-2004, 11:10 PM
Jmd hit it on the head. :)

Transamant99
02-19-2004, 02:08 AM
I appreciate JMD, i'm gonna dive into this weekend, and have at it. On a side not would that have anything to do with that fact that the clutch engagement point on my T/A is closer to the floor than it was when i got it? 65k now bought it with 30. Thanks again