NBMWSsix
02-17-2004, 08:48 PM
Gonna rebuild your own tranny? Step-by-step right here:
The tranny used was previously rebuilt by who knows? This rebuild was my first. It was very confusing at first. I used the T-56 service manual and the Shifting Six with Confidence (http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/0305pon_shiftingsix/) article used High Performance Pontiac. It takes a few hours from start to finish if you know what you are doing. If not take it slow and place pieces in sequence the way you take them off on a separate table. I also recommend taking pictures with a digital camera to see how things go back together in case you don't remember. I could only work on it on weekends so I would have to look at the pics and the service manual. Printing out this thread wouldn't be bad idea either.
NOTE: If you dis-assemble the synchro assembly(slider&hub) as pictures indicate, be sure to re-assemble them the same way. These are marked with a laser marking to show the original orientation. This will insure the proper fit of the parts. Excessive loosness (rock) can cause gear jump out and general shift complaints.
Handling of the parts with the bearings installed requires some care, too. It is very easy to bump the mainshaft pocket bearing and not know of the damage untill you do a drive test. A little extra care can save some serious strings of foul language later.
Lastly , keep every thing clean. Even simple lint / threads from rags can be a detriment to a favorible result.
Tools needed:
When it comes to tools with the exception of the gear puller I fabricated I bought quality tools. IT will save you a lot of time if you have the right tools.
SOLD WORK TABLE With a good sized opening or separation since the tranny will be verticle for most of the process. The opening is for the input shaft of the transmission.
SNAP RING PLIERS for both styles - Slant tipped and hole tipped. The snap rings used on the transmission are heavy duty and WILL either bend or break your "El Cheapo" brand snap ring pliers. Craftsman or a good name brand will do well. Trust me on this that was $4.99 down the drain.
GEAR PULLER - Professional ones range from $80 to $200. I made my own for about $20. I got the largest 3-sided gear puller I could find for like $9. It was too short so I went to Home Depot and got a couple of metal strips that were the same width and thickness, cut them to about 12 inches in length. I then drilled holes spaced about 1 inch apart on one end to make it adjustable length. It worked perfect.
HOLLOW PIPE large enough to fit over the mainshaft.
HAMMER Used when you need a little extra effort. Not to be used out of frustration.
SMALL OR MEDIUM GEAR PULLER to remove teh speed sensor and the 3-4 synchronizer hub.
T-30 OR T-40 TORX BITS to remove teh two torx screws on the side of the case.
Here are the speciality tools:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/TransmissionTools.jpg
Parts Replaced: - 1-2 Synchro keys, 3-4 shift fork, 3-4 synchro keys, 3-4 gear blocker rings, C-springs for both housings.
Synchro assembly from the T-56 manual:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Synchro20Assembly.jpg
C springs for the inner synchro housing. The gear blocker rings were also showing signs of wear so those were replaced as well. Worn blocker rings with paper like linings, these were replaced.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Cspring.jpghttp://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Worn20Gear20blocker20rings.jpg
First thing that should have been done is to drain most of the fluid out of the tranny for two reasons. When you start lowering the tranny it will start to leak out the rear seal and all over you. The other reason is the tranny weighs about 100 lbs bone dry so you can do yourself a favor by getting rid of that extra weight.
This picture I am removing the rest out of the rear part of the case so that it just doesn't make a mess. I put it in the bucket to inspect what settles at the bottom, metal shavings, broken pieces, etc.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Tranny20Rebuild20Drain20Fluid.jpg
Next remove the two bolts off the front of the transmission that hold on the slave and remove the slave. You will notice that there are several bolts that may be hard to notice because of clutch disc dust. Remove all but two of these, on opposite ends from each other. Loosen these two leaving about 1/4" between them and the plate.
These bolts are circled in red. Should be 11, but I could have missed one. :)
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Tranny20Rebuild20Front20Bolts20web.jpg
Next place your bucket under the front plate. Using a large screwdriver or similar tool we want to pry open the plate from the case using the pry spots. You may need to used the hammer to get it started. Be careful not to gouge the surface where the plate and cover come together. These trannys don't used gaskets and you will end up with a pemanent leak. They cannot be machined either because things won't line up inside.
Pictured here:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Tranny20Rebuild20Drain20Front.jpg
After removing all the fluid re-tighten the bolts (hand tight) and turn the tranny upright. Using a punch or similar you will want to remove the shifting saddle pin. Then slide off the saddle.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Tranny20Rebuild20Shifter20saddle20pin.jpg
The tranny used was previously rebuilt by who knows? This rebuild was my first. It was very confusing at first. I used the T-56 service manual and the Shifting Six with Confidence (http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/0305pon_shiftingsix/) article used High Performance Pontiac. It takes a few hours from start to finish if you know what you are doing. If not take it slow and place pieces in sequence the way you take them off on a separate table. I also recommend taking pictures with a digital camera to see how things go back together in case you don't remember. I could only work on it on weekends so I would have to look at the pics and the service manual. Printing out this thread wouldn't be bad idea either.
NOTE: If you dis-assemble the synchro assembly(slider&hub) as pictures indicate, be sure to re-assemble them the same way. These are marked with a laser marking to show the original orientation. This will insure the proper fit of the parts. Excessive loosness (rock) can cause gear jump out and general shift complaints.
Handling of the parts with the bearings installed requires some care, too. It is very easy to bump the mainshaft pocket bearing and not know of the damage untill you do a drive test. A little extra care can save some serious strings of foul language later.
Lastly , keep every thing clean. Even simple lint / threads from rags can be a detriment to a favorible result.
Tools needed:
When it comes to tools with the exception of the gear puller I fabricated I bought quality tools. IT will save you a lot of time if you have the right tools.
SOLD WORK TABLE With a good sized opening or separation since the tranny will be verticle for most of the process. The opening is for the input shaft of the transmission.
SNAP RING PLIERS for both styles - Slant tipped and hole tipped. The snap rings used on the transmission are heavy duty and WILL either bend or break your "El Cheapo" brand snap ring pliers. Craftsman or a good name brand will do well. Trust me on this that was $4.99 down the drain.
GEAR PULLER - Professional ones range from $80 to $200. I made my own for about $20. I got the largest 3-sided gear puller I could find for like $9. It was too short so I went to Home Depot and got a couple of metal strips that were the same width and thickness, cut them to about 12 inches in length. I then drilled holes spaced about 1 inch apart on one end to make it adjustable length. It worked perfect.
HOLLOW PIPE large enough to fit over the mainshaft.
HAMMER Used when you need a little extra effort. Not to be used out of frustration.
SMALL OR MEDIUM GEAR PULLER to remove teh speed sensor and the 3-4 synchronizer hub.
T-30 OR T-40 TORX BITS to remove teh two torx screws on the side of the case.
Here are the speciality tools:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/TransmissionTools.jpg
Parts Replaced: - 1-2 Synchro keys, 3-4 shift fork, 3-4 synchro keys, 3-4 gear blocker rings, C-springs for both housings.
Synchro assembly from the T-56 manual:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Synchro20Assembly.jpg
C springs for the inner synchro housing. The gear blocker rings were also showing signs of wear so those were replaced as well. Worn blocker rings with paper like linings, these were replaced.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Cspring.jpghttp://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Worn20Gear20blocker20rings.jpg
First thing that should have been done is to drain most of the fluid out of the tranny for two reasons. When you start lowering the tranny it will start to leak out the rear seal and all over you. The other reason is the tranny weighs about 100 lbs bone dry so you can do yourself a favor by getting rid of that extra weight.
This picture I am removing the rest out of the rear part of the case so that it just doesn't make a mess. I put it in the bucket to inspect what settles at the bottom, metal shavings, broken pieces, etc.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Tranny20Rebuild20Drain20Fluid.jpg
Next remove the two bolts off the front of the transmission that hold on the slave and remove the slave. You will notice that there are several bolts that may be hard to notice because of clutch disc dust. Remove all but two of these, on opposite ends from each other. Loosen these two leaving about 1/4" between them and the plate.
These bolts are circled in red. Should be 11, but I could have missed one. :)
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Tranny20Rebuild20Front20Bolts20web.jpg
Next place your bucket under the front plate. Using a large screwdriver or similar tool we want to pry open the plate from the case using the pry spots. You may need to used the hammer to get it started. Be careful not to gouge the surface where the plate and cover come together. These trannys don't used gaskets and you will end up with a pemanent leak. They cannot be machined either because things won't line up inside.
Pictured here:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Tranny20Rebuild20Drain20Front.jpg
After removing all the fluid re-tighten the bolts (hand tight) and turn the tranny upright. Using a punch or similar you will want to remove the shifting saddle pin. Then slide off the saddle.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/t56rebuild/Tranny20Rebuild20Shifter20saddle20pin.jpg