98 Tank Access Door

[eboggs_jkvl]

Here we go. This is the before and after shot.


http://www.ls2.com/boggs/98tank/P1010025c.jpg


Action

Remove cover from Amp and unfasten amp from mounting screws.
Remove both side panels with speakers.
Roll back carpet
Drill pilot hole and plan remaining cut.

Note: We drilled with large drill bit and taped the bit with a lot of electrician’s tape about a ½ inch from the end to insure that we stopped before we hit the fuel tank!




http://www.ls2.com/boggs/98tank/P1010017c.jpg



http://www.ls2.com/boggs/98tank/P1010019c.jpg





Expanding the Hole We marked the outline of the rectangle we wanted.

We used a nibbler to finish the cut of the hole



http://www.ls2.com/boggs/98tank/P1010020c.jpg




Closing the hole

We took galvanized metal and cut out a rectangle to cover the hole.

Marked off screw holes and then drilled the holes in the cover and the floor.

We used a piece of tarred insulation to seal the cover against water or air leaks.



http://www.ls2.com/boggs/98tank/P1010022c.jpg


http://www.ls2.com/boggs/98tank/P1010024c.jpg







All, done. Back where we started. 2 Hours tops. I would recommend that you cover the nibbler to keep the “nibbles” from flying all over the place. I’m still vacuuming those darn things and I’m finding them in the front seat!


http://www.ls2.com/boggs/98tank/P1010025c.jpg

[jumpcable]

Looks good...I'm assuming this allows a quick way to change out the fuel pump in case it goes bad. - Patrick:D

[AtomicVette]

Nice.. BTW.. did you know there's an Arm growing out of your seat?!? :D

http://www.ls2.com/boggs/98tank/P1010025c.jpg

[eboggs_jkvl]

That's the "arm mod" Big bucks...


Yes, the door is to gain access to the fuel pump assembly

[jumpcable]

Makes you wonder why wouldn't a car company incorporate this type of mod into the design of their cars. Sure makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on....oh yeah, they are more worried about apeasing themselves. Sorry, almost forgot for a second there. :D

[FirehawkNS]

Hey that first and last pic are the same, not a before and after!! :mad:

:p

[eboggs_jkvl]

Ya got me there. It's hard to tell because we did such a good job! :D

[Get Shorty]

Did you do this before or after your fuel pump went out? Y'know, as a "just in case"?

Excellent idea, though... Better than dropping the tank.

[jmd]

Originally posted by jumpcable
Makes you wonder why wouldn't a car company incorporate this type of mod into the design of their cars. Sure makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on....oh yeah, they are more worried about apeasing themselves. Sorry, almost forgot for a second there. :D

Too many people suing over gas tanks in Fords, NBC blowing up pickup truck fuel tanks, and a mass of paranoid people who think they're gonna die.

Look at what they did to the Monaro fuel tank setup to make the GTO. :(

[eboggs_jkvl]

The walbro I have got in with the tank being dropped. My sending unit went bad so I figured I'd just do the hole this time rather than drop the tank. I figure, it'll save me a LOT of time on any other fuel tank entry.

E:)

[98 SNAKE EATER]

My sending unit recently went out as well (2nd F'ng time!!)

What length are the sheet metal screws you used:think:

I'll be doing this on Saturday night, so I wanna make sure I get all the parts I need beforehand....






Rick

[eboggs_jkvl]

Probably 1/2 inch screws. They really don't need to be very big. 2 pieces of sheet metal and the tar strip insulation and sealant isn't very thick. You have a good inch of space under the floor befor you touch tank. You just need to watch out for plumbing and wiring as you reassemble.

E:)

[Blk00z28]

Man Snake, you brought this from the past.. lol

So why is it "98 tank access door" do the 99-02 have something different? I didnt think they changes anything other then the size of the tank, just a little though.

[eboggs_jkvl]

One is metal, the others are plastic 99+. The sizes are different and they relocated the hole slightly on the plastic ones.

Other than that, no difference. :D


E:)

[Blk00z28]

Cool, but hell either year, that would come in handy if you ever have to changer the sending unit. :cool:

[slow]

Originally posted by Blk00z28
Cool, but hell either year, that would come in handy if you ever have to changer the sending unit. :cool:

aslong as you cut in the right place.

following a 98 guide on a 99+ car, or a 99+ guide on a 98 car, won't allow you to get the job done ;)

Ryan.

[Constrictor]

I will do this mod one day...but it'll probably be when the time comes that my fuel pump ever goes out! :D

[98 SNAKE EATER]

OK, here are a few pix from my Sender Unit install:cool:


Too much junk in the trunk....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsenderstart.JPG



Remove Sidepanels.....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsenderremovepanels.JPG


Pull Carpet Back....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsenderremovecarpet.JPG


Air Shears and Nibbler....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fueltools.JPG


It's hard to keep the Nibbler in a straight line, so I just used the Shears after drilling a small pilot hole....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelcuttingshears.JPG


3 straight cuts to make a Doggie door....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelcleancut.JPG


Pry Doggie door back to gain access......

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelopendoor.JPG

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelreplacepump.JPG



Unbolt Retaining Ring and Remove Fuel Pump Assembly


http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelremovepump.JPG



Replace Fuel Pump with New Sender and Close Doggie door....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelclosedoor.JPG

Measure and Cut Sheet Metal Cover Plate.....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsheetmetal.JPG


Didn't have any Tar Strips on hand, so I improvised and layed a thick bead of Black Silicone around the perimeter of the access panel as well as the edges of the Doggie door itself....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelcoatdoorblacksilicone.JPG


After Laying the Sheetmetal Cover in place, I used a VERY short drill bit to drill 6 small holes around the cover, then screwed it down using 1/2" Phillips Head Sheet Metal screws....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelshortdillbit.JPG

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsheetmetal6screw.JPG


Once it was screwed down, I went ahead and drilled 10 more holes to help distribute even pressure around the cover plate....

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsheetmetal2.JPG

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsheetmetal3.JPG

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsheetmetal4.JPG



After the Silicone was completely dry to the touch, I put the carpet back in place, re-installed the sidepanels and put all my junk back where they were.....


http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsenderremovepanels.JPG

http://www.fuelslut.net/hosting/uploads/fuelsenderstart.JPG



Gauge seems to be working fine:)

At the Gas Station, I left the Ignition on and watched the needle rise as I filled her up:cool:







Rick

[99huggerorangeZ]

Originally posted by eboggs_jkvl
One is metal, the others are plastic 99+. The sizes are different and they relocated the hole slightly on the plastic ones.

Other than that, no difference. :D


E:)
has anyone with a 99+ fbody done this mod and if so do you know where they relocated the access hole to the fuel pump??

[XTNKT]

Originally posted by 99huggerorangeZ
has anyone with a 99+ fbody done this mod and if so do you know where they relocated the access hole to the fuel pump??

try this


http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136171&page=3

[eboggs_jkvl]

THis is really easier to locate than you might think. If you use a hole saw Geographically dead center you can locate the sender assembly and then adjust the exact location of the rectangular cut. You simply need to tape the hole saw so you don't push down on to the piping and wiring. Wrap masking tape around the hole saw about 1/4" up from the teeth of the bit. A thick layer of tape will stop the hole saw from damaging anything under the metal. That way you can do the project and custom cut your door. You can't reuse the OEM piece of sheetmetal that you cut as it will just lay there as a non supportive flap. The new "door" you put in to cover the hole will be the support and allow you to put in the water seal and sound deadener like Nick did.

E:)

[98 SNAKE EATER]

OK, this is really starting to chap my arse:mad:

Over the last week, I've noticed the gauge acting funny again:confused:

If I fill the tank completely, the gauge reads full and won't budge until I drive at least 115 miles:eek:

Then it proceeds to gradually move to "E" as I finish up the rest of the tank:dunno:

Now, as a test, I drove it till the gauge hit "E" (even though it's highly frowned upon), then hit the gas station...

The tank would only take 11 gallons, which meant I had 4.5 gallons left:eek: (either that or the gas pump was f#ckin with me)

Luckily, there's a 12 month warranty on the sending unit, so I'm in the clear, but what exactly would cause it to go bad in just 2 months time:think:

[jmd]

Rick,

Your last name is Murphy, and you must abide by the Law. ::D

2 months? Dunno. Not corrosion that quick, that's for sure. Have you measured what values it's giving you currently?

[98 SNAKE EATER]

LOL, true.....

I have yet to pull it, but when I do, I'll check the readings....

New one should arrive tomorrow, but I'll wait till this weekend to throw it in:\

[slow]

rick, do you have that part number, that you can send me or post on the sending unit.

and for going bad in 2 months... around memorial day, you didn't get any shell gas in the tampa area did you?

I did... my sender is screwed, 140 miles before it goes off of full :( .. they will pick up the tab of $1049 to get it done at the dealer.. but i don't want my car going to dealer for that repair ;)

Ryan

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Damn!!

$1049??

Think you can make me a copy of your Shell receipt?;)

No, I didn't buy any Shell or Marathon gas:\

I stick to BP Connect/Amoco, Chevron and Mobil (Sunoco 94 if I'm up North)

The part number for the Sender is 25314260







Rick

[98 SNAKE EATER]

OK, looks like the $h!t's about to hit the fan:mad:

I just got a call from my GM parts supplier and he said there has been a large amount of fuel senders going bad due to the bad batch of gas out there:\

Well, I already knew that Shell and Marathon had this problem, but didn't think it concerned me cause I never use their gas:dunno:

Turns out that Chevron and Amoco Fuels were both tainted as well, but they didn't go public until recently:nono:

Now, I'm just going by what my supplier and his shop foreman says and have yet to find an actual news regarding this, so if anyone has a link to more info, please post up....

Anyhoo, my supplier said that if carbon deposits from sulphur are detected when the foreman checks the unit, it will void my warranty:(

I went to BP's website and they don't have a phone number listed:think:

Who do I need to contact:dunno:




Hi, my name is Murphy and I got this Law......

[slow]

Thanks rick.

I normally don't get shell, i even pulled off I4, only was a shell station, got back on I4, next exit, was shell, and some no name brand, so i went with shell... bad move on my part :/

Thanks for the part number, i'll just order it now and do the repair myself,

Ryan.

[Dolemite]

I just had a quick question.

My fuel pump went bad on my car....it's a 96 Formula.

I was wondering if your 'fuel pump removal door' mod can also be applied to LT1 cars. I'm assuming so...but I'm not sure :think:

Also...one thing isn't clear to me: Would I be drilling in hole into the metal? Or also the actual gas tank? Am I going to be cutting into the actual tank to remove the pump? Or just the metal housing it?

[Get Shorty]

Originally posted by Dolemite
I just had a quick question.

My fuel pump went bad on my car....it's a 96 Formula.

I was wondering if your 'fuel pump removal door' mod can also be applied to LT1 cars. I'm assuming so...but I'm not sure :think:

Also...one thing isn't clear to me: Would I be drilling in hole into the metal? Or also the actual gas tank? Am I going to be cutting into the actual tank to remove the pump? Or just the metal housing it?

I'm pretty postive it's the same.

Oh, and use screws short enough to not puncture the tank.

[Dolemite]

Originally posted by Get Shorty
I'm pretty postive it's the same.

Oh, and use screws short enough to not puncture the tank.

Okay, so basically, I am just drilling into the metal trunk area covering the tank? Not the tank itself?


How hard is to actually replace the fuel pump afterwards?

[Get Shorty]

Originally posted by Dolemite
Okay, so basically, I am just drilling into the metal trunk area covering the tank? Not the tank itself?


Correct.


How hard is to actually replace the fuel pump afterwards?

I've never replaced one on an F-body, so I couldn't tell you for sure. I know it's not normally a big deal though.

[jmd]

Originally posted by Dolemite
How hard is to actually replace the fuel pump afterwards?

simple.

[eboggs_jkvl]

With the door it's simple. Open door. Remove ~6 fasteners, disconnect the hoses, lift out and replace. Reverse order and you're done.

That sure beats put car on lift. remove exhaust, drop one side of PHB, remove fuel tank shield, remove fuel tank straps, drop fuel tank, remove ~6 fasteners, disconnect hoses, lift out and replace. Reverse order and you're done.



Ok, now, you pick the easiest of the two procedures? :D

E:)

[Dolemite]

Okay...I am going to probably tackle this weekend with my father.


What should I use to cut the holes? What kind of tools should I use, and how should I avoid sparks?

[zombie5011]

My car normally stays on full for 100+ miles and the 1/2 mark around 200ish... then rapidly shoots down to E around 300-325 miles.

[FlagSStaff]

Originally posted by zombie5011
My car normally stays on full for 100+ miles and the 1/2 mark around 200ish... then rapidly shoots down to E around 300-325 miles.

That's the level sensor thingy being retarded. Mine stays on full for ~200 miles, then slowly works its way down. One of these days I'll get enough motivation to do the hole like E did, but I know what mileage my car gets, so no worries...lol

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Originally posted by zombie5011
My car normally stays on full for 100+ miles and the 1/2 mark around 200ish... then rapidly shoots down to E around 300-325 miles.


It's usually carbon buildup on the variable resistor caused by $hitty gas and even $hittier GM parts:\


You can pull the sending unit out, rub off the carbon with an eraser and you'll be good to go until it gets gunked up again:yup:


I've had to do this once already after replacing the sending unit:sillyme:

[ANTIVNM]

hell, I just siliconed mine back down.