Exhaust/Header Reviews

[Constrictor]

Originally posted by Constrictor
http://www.aloha.com/~tabanger/dvdtalk/stop.gifhttp://www.aloha.com/~tabanger/dvdtalk/stop.gifhttp://www.aloha.com/~tabanger/dvdtalk/stop.gif
PLEASE READ THE RULES BEFORE POSTING IN THIS THREAD!

Welcome to the Official "What Exhaust/Header Should I Get" Thread.

Description
With the success of the What Cam Should I Get thread, it has been suggested that we have a similar thread for exhaust and headers.

The rules will be the same for this thread. This is to be an INFORMATIONAL thread only. No discussion or feedback is permitted here. Any and all non-review posts in this thread will be deleted!

The objective of this thread is to provide a single place for people to post their exhaust setups and what they think about them, so we can try to minimize all the "What catback should I get", or "What header should I get". There is nothing wrong with asking questions about a specific product, but just general questions should be answered by this thread.

Rules
For this to work, I would like each of you who has some type of aftermarket exhaust setup to make a post in this thread detailing the following: Your entire exhaust setup from the exhaust manifolds back, this includes headers, cutouts, Y-pipe, cats, and catback
Observed sound observations - movie/soundclips if you have any
Observed performance increases - if you have a dyno sheet that shows a HP increase, post it
Pictures - if you want to show off your exhaust setup, feel free to post a link or an [IMG] here
A general review of your setup - This should just be a recap of everything above and just tell people your whole setup, even if one part of it is stock, how much you paid for it, are you happy with it, etc...
Feel free to be flexible with your reviews. It's important to note that you should tell us your WHOLE exhaust setup to get a better idea of your car. So if all you have is a Borla, but everything else is stock, say so. Don't just say you are reviewing the Borla, because a Borla on an otherwise stock car, and one on a cammed car with LT headers and an ORY will be totally different.

You guys requested this, so hopefully this can be helpful to the membership of this board. I will create a table of contents once a few setups are listed.

[PC PaiN]

Jethot LT's, no cats, true duals with moroso spiral flow mufflers.

The jethots were an easy install but did require slight grinding of the K-member.

The exhaust as a whole sounds very bad ass and doesn't have all that much, if any drone IMHO. Has a very cool tone.

[jrp]

My Old Setup:

Jet Hot LT's
Custom AAP Y w/carsound cats
Magnaflow catback

I ran with just the LT's and Y for a few days until i could get the magnaflows on. Without the catback it was ungodly loud. With the Magnaflows installed it quited it up alot, almost too much :(. The idle sound is very low, the flow masters that were previously on it had a little better idle. Once you get on it though it screams and almost sounds like a cut out. I havent really noticed any rasp or popping. no dyno numbers yet but there is definately a ****load more of top end power :drive:

Overall i am very happy and got a great deal on the parts, which are all high quality. I had some fitment issues with the LT's and the Magnaflows needed a little cutting to fit up correctly. The 3.5" single outlet tail pipes are stainless steel and look bad ass :cool:.

sound clips and pics can be found here (http://www.cardomain.com/id/jrpz28)

[Hash Brown]

EDIT:
Hooker Coated Race LT's
No Cats
Lanes 3" duals
Dr. Gas X-pipe
3" bullets dumped:D

Car sound amazing. The exhaust note is so clean with no rasp ro anything. When cruzing it sound badass. I love it and there is less interior noise then with my cut-out open. I love this set-up

[BerryWS6]

I have
Hooker LT's and ORY
cut out
and Flowmaster
Like most people I love the cut out open, little bit of drone on the high way in 6th gear, flowmaster is ok but it has rasp when changing gears at high rpm thinking of changing to a Hooker Aerochamber that should sound better, I don't want true dual set up because one on the T/A the notches for the tips and two I just wouldn't want to waste the money, my set up sounds and feels great! thats my .02:drive:
Just bought a Hooker Aerochamber muffler and shoud get put on soon

[Strahley]

MAC midlength headers
ORY
Dynomax 3" I Pipe
Cutout in I Pipe
Hooker Aero Chamber (single 3" in/out)
(Also have a lopey Hotcam)

At idle through the Hooker, it sounds very nice. Gives a nice muscle car rumble that shakes the house

At light to moderate acceleration, it's fairly quiet (TOO quiet for me). It has a little bit of rasp, but it isn't very loud

WOT it sounds pretty nice, although not too loud. It sounds mean, but not loud

Not much drone at 70 MPH in 6th, but at 80 MPH in 6th there is some noticable drone

Also should note that the muffler looks ugly with a single pipe dumping down from it. Up close you can't see it, but you can from a distance. Thank god there isn't a single pipe sticking out the back though



Through the cutout.....

Under ~2700 rpms it sounds like shit, due to not having cats and/or a bullet

Over ~2700 it's VERY loud. One of the loudest cars I've ever heard when the cutout is open. I love it!

There is very little drone at ~55 mph in 5th, then again at ~70 mph in 6th. 80 mph in 6th is quieter through the cutout then through the Hooker

Overall, it's a pretty nice setup, although I don't think the Hooker Aero Chamber was meant for headers/ory, especially with a cam. I love the idle, but I hate how quiet it is at acceleration, and it sounds yucky with the cutout open. I will be switching to True Duals

This is a good setup for somebody who wants an intimidating muscle car sound at idle, but doesn't want to grab the wrong attention at cruising

[MYSCZ06]

I currently have stock system with 1 cutout..I get a lot of compliments on the sound those who dont know think I have a different exhaust I also have new tips..I made 321.5 rwhp/339.5 rwtrq on this along with lid..when I put my cam in she lope's nice throught the cutout and gave me a different exhaust note I like it alot....when I come home for mid tour leave from Korea I will install my p/s longtubes with mufflex y and 2 electric cutouts dyno her and let you know how she sounds and what the new numbers are

UPDATE:
Well I have returned from leave and the new exhaust is in and it is great..the pacesetter L/T and Mufflex -Y fit nice..Im getting some banging from the y-pipe which I need to work around... the installation was pretty striaght forward from what I heard, My buddies installed it for me before I returned home! I only went with a single cutout and was able to tune it also while back the numbers are in my sig the final number was tune only the 2nd number was lid,exhaust,cam and maft..the car really moves out now and sounds awesome ...best $400 i spent glad I got them when I did...

[gettinthere]

Set-up:
Kooks LT's and Y with Magnaflow cats
GMMG chambered cat-back


Before Kook's:
If you plan to leave the stock manifolds, there is no better cat-back on the market. It's loud, deep and mean. The GMMG has the old 69 Camaro muscle car sound to it. At start up it's loud with a good tone to it. At warm idle it quiets down a bit, but doesn't lose any sound quality. At cruise you know you have something special and at WOT it's almost deafening. The best part about crusing in an M6 with GMMG is goin about 40 or so in 3rd gear (2300-2400 rpm) and then giving it some gas. It alomst screams. Best part is that there is NO drone.

The GMMG is not cheap though. $700 for the system and $850 with the polished oval tips. (which I had to get) By far the best money I've spent on my car.

www.gmmginc.net

Okay, the Kook's are on. Here's what I think:

Sounds:

On start up the car roars to life. It almost barks when I start it. At warm idle, it's a little louder and just as deep sounding as it did before. At cold idle (around 1100 rpm) it's alot louder, as are most exhaust systems because you're running a higher RPM. Give it a little bit of gas and it'll wake you up. Under "normal" acceleration it is a bit louder, but if you accelerate the way I do...it's just plain loud.....but a good loud. I though my GMMG alone at WOT was almost deafening, now it IS deafening. At WOT it is very very loud, yet very crisp and clear. On deceleration (engine breaking) it's actually quieter because there is no gargling sound from the back-pressure, it hums now. Overall it sounds amazing, I couldn't have hoped for it to be better.

Fit/Looks/Quality:

The Kook's slide in like a piece of cake. Everything fits perfectly. There is no banging on the floorboard from the y-pipe and nothing is rubbing or hitting anywhere. They tuck up surprisingly well. I measuerd clearences and only gave up about a 1/2". I was shocked to see how high the collectors and y-pipe sat. I also checked out all the welds I could see and how everything fit together. This is all top-notch workmanship. The Kook's do cost more than just about everything else, but it's worth it because of the quality of the parts, workmanship and sound. Plus they look great.

Performance:

With all mods listed in my sig, 428 on a Mustang Dyno. I haven't hit a Dyno Jet yet, but doing the math at 7% would put it around 465.

Overall:

Bottom line: I love this set-up. It sounds so mean and aggressive it's not even funny. Definitley worth every penny and I hope to get sound clips up soon.

[DarkPhoenix]

Kook's stainless steel, 1.75" headers
Kook's y-pipe with Magnaflow Cats
Hooker catback

Sound: Cold start idle it is a little louder deeper, warm idle it sounds stock maybe a little deeper. Normal driving, below 2k sounds pretty tame, deeper and a little louder. "Fun driving" it is a good bit louder, but has a nice deep sounds to it. Really loud at WOT. On the highway at 70mph, it sounds stock, which is great for the ammount of highway driving that I do.

Performance: Unfortunately no dyno yet, still recovering from buying the headers, and I broke an exhaust manifold bolt while installing the headers so I dont like to go WOT till I get that fixed. Car definately feels a good bit faster, dyno numbers, track times, and pics to come this summer. No SES lights!

Quality: Headers and Y-pipe are of excellent quality. Stainless steel should last the life of the vehicle. There were little metal flakes inside of hte primary tubes, paper towel and a coat hanger took care of that, but that was to be expected. Very pleased with the quality of the headers.

Fitment: Just get the car as high up as possible and both headers just slide right in from the bottom of the car. I did have a problem with the y-pipe, I had to cut about an inch off of the end of it because it was too long to properly fit into the i-pipe of the catback. Tuck up very nicely, I only lost 1/2" of ground clearance when I installed the headers, as compared to the stock exhaust.

Overall: Excellent headers, definately woth the money. I got them from Matt at TTP and he gave me a great deal on everything that I needed. Great "muscle car" sound, quiet when normally driving but really screams when you get on it. I highly recommend these headers and catback for that matter to anyone who wants a good sounding exhaust that is tame when it has to be, and screams at WOT! :D

[Rob Almighty]

I have the Kooks stainless steel long tubes with the SLP Loudmouth cat-back. Rather than get the ORY I opted for the y-pipe with the Magnaflow cats.

The only thing I wish I had were a true merge collector, which I may pick up soon...

On a cold start, the car ROARS to life...even when it's warm the idle is noticeable, and overall the exhaust is pretty damned loud. Above ~2700 RPMs it tends to rasp a bit, but at that point it's so loud you just hear it ROAR. :eek:

I did the installation myself with the help of a friend, and I can't complain. I have a lift at my house so it was pretty simple with the car 4' in the air...both headers slid RIGHT in.

:2thumbs:

[WAHUSKER]

I have installed 3 sets of headers on these cars so far (PPCs on my car, FLPs & Pacesetters on friends cars) so I thought I'd share some useful tips that we used. Note - I got >30rwhp from PPCs. I will post what the others gained when we dyno next time.

DISCLAIMER - each car is a little different & may require some tweaking.

ALL - Remove the steering linkage. It works for all headers. Avoid the nice gouges on the driver's side header, and hours of cursing. Turn the steering wheel first so you can get at both bolts. The bottom one can be challenging....a 12" ext & a wobbly works. Lock the steering wheel & remove the 2 bolts, and yank it off. Removing the bottom bolt completely is required. This will let the driver's side header slip right in! Some may also require removing the oil filter.

PPCs - The y-pipe is the B on these. Get a BIG rubber mallet, a LARGE set of channel locks, and a can of WD-40. Wiggle, pound spray, & cuss. It will go. The I-pipe will probably be too long & need to be cut. And personally I do not like the thinner clamps for the cats. Go get some 2-3" wide band clamps.

PaceSetters - cut a 2" long piece off the k-member's lip. You'll neeed to hold the header in place to see where the cut is needed. A sawzall, a dremel with a cut-off wheel & a pair of vice grips works very nicely. Cut 2 lines straight in, etch along the k-member with the cut-off wheel, & then bend it back & forth with vice grips or whatever you can grab it with. It should break right off. Use a grinding wheel on a dremel to touch up the rough edge.

FLPs - The worst part about these is the collector & y-pipe clamps. Take the bolts out & spread them apart, put both pipes in & then squeeze them together again with channel locks so you can get the nut started. The I-pipe will probably be too long & need to be cut on these too.

AIR Tubes - on the PPCs the stock ones worked fine. On 01-02 FLPs, the headers have flanges on cyl 1 & 2, whereas the stock manifolds are on 3 & 4. For the passenger saide, get a pass side tube off a 2000, and use the existing passenger side for the driver's side. The flanges on the header is clocked ~ 90* from the stock poistion so they will need to be cut & welded. Hold the one you're going to use up to the flange & draw a line on the tube where one of bolt holes is. Do the same for both sides. Then go get the ends cut off, rotated & welded back on. Usually rotating one way or the other will result in a better angle. I think we rotated the pass side CCW & the drivers side CW. Didn't do AIR tubes on the Pacesetters.

EGR Tubes - these are NOT fun to put on. The flange is down by the starter & you cannot reach it with the tube in place. A magnetic socket to hold the bolts & some grease on the gasket to hold it in place worked for me. Along with 4 extensions & 2 wobblies. Took me an hour and every word I knew.

ALL - have a Predator handy. It is not unusual to throw a code when you first start the car. Especially if you didn't get one of the plug wires all the way on, or forgot to plug in a coil pack (yeah, it runs on 4 cylinders)

Hope this helps.
Mark

[Scotty]

Magnaflow Catback

Around the internet, I have seen many people gaining sudden interest in this catback, so I thought I'd do a little write-up of mine so everyone could see what it is like.

I would not get rid of my Magnaflow catback for anything. If you can pick it up for $300-$375, I highly reccommend it!

Here's the facts:
-The exhaust is made of stainless steel, meaning that it will hold up well for a long time to come. Magnaflow polishes it up very nicely and it shines like you would not believe. The muffler has a mirror finish and it is literally like a mirror.

-The piping is mandrel-bent, meaning they use a machine for bending pipes that does not crease or wrinkle it at the edges. This enhances air flow signifigantly.

-The muffler has a straight-thru design that makes it one of the top 2 best flowing catbacks on the market. It flows within a few HP of an open cutout, which is amazing! On a 2000 SS, I believe it picked up somewhere between 15-19 hp. I took mine out of the box and could literally see straight through the muffler from one side out the other. That's how free-flowing it is.

The sound is great. It is somewhat quiet at idle (somewhat louder than stock) with a classic musclecar rumble. Rev it a bit and it gets louder with a bit of a muscular gurgle. Once you start getting into some of the revs about 3k, it really opens up like a beast. It will just scream at WOT with a deep tone that is pretty loud. NO drone at all. I love mine and I plan to get longtubes soon. That's another plus: if you ever get longtube headers, the catback still sounds amazing. Some catbacks like the Loudmouth become unbearable with headers, but the Magnaflow just sounds like it is meaner and a bit louder.

Plus, Magnaflow's customer service is pretty nice. A member on this site had a crack in his muffler from a defect and they paid for him to ship it back, plus gave him a whole brand new catback for free.

I cannot endorse this catback enough. It is the best bang-for-the-buck catback on the market, especially at just over $300. Go to LS1sounds.com and listen to it. I love mine and so do many other owners of this catback.

[Checkmate]

Jet Hot LT's, true duals.

I went with the Magnaflow 4x9 oval mufflers(part # 11229 3" in/out). My whole system is 3 inch. It has a VERY deep tone at all times. Idle is actually quieter than I thought it would be and normal driving below 3500rpm is perfect, when I get it above 3500 is screams. :devil: Highway driving is perfect, 80mph in 6th it is quiet and barely noticeable with the radio at low volume and the windows up. The guy made me a custom H pipe and not an X pipe even though I told him I wanted an x pipe. I noticed it after he was done. Honestly I was pissed when I saw it but it does feel stronger, it sounds awesome and I can also get to my torque arm and driveshaft when I need to without dropping the exhaust.

Video clip:
http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tchess/quickrun.wmv

Here are some pics:

I have gone up a couple steep driveways and I have not hit the exhaust on the ground yet.
http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tchess/trueduals1.jpg
http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tchess/trueduals.jpg
http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tchess/trueduals2.jpg
http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tchess/trueduals3.jpg

[brandon1221]

magnaflow catback
I like it alot, sounds real nice, I think i am going to switch to the GMMG later though. The magnaflow is nice, but a little too quiet at idle for my taste. For the price, i think its the best catback you could buy though.

[Billfold]

Stock manifolds
TSP Catback
Sounds great! Went from a Borla to this cat back. The Borla came with the car, and I just didn't like it, so I gave the TSP a try. The system is Mandrel bent with a Dynomax Bullet muffler in the I-Pipe. It is an aluminzed system, so I knew it would eventually rust. So, I bought some Acetone and High temp black paint, and painted the entire system. Took about 2 hours to do. The sound of the catback is great! It's deep and loud. There is a drone from about 1500 - 2000 rpms. Normal city driving it's tame. Highway from around 60 - 70 there is a drone, but goes away once the rpm's are over 2000. Overall, I am very well pleased with the system, and I hope my first paint job on the system lasts some time.

[2MCHPWR]

i have jet-hot long tubes. i used to have a mufflex y pipe with cats, but my new spohn torque arm hit the mufflex y, so i needed a different design Y pipe. my cat-back is randtom tech, which is a straight thru muffler. sounds very nice, low tone, no rasp. i have a cutout on the intermediate pipe and the cutout has a turndown so the noise is pointed away from the car. i love the sound of the cutout; i think it sounds better because i have cats. all pics on my site.
so i just ordered the jet hot y pipe and i can't believe how poor the craftsmanship is where the pipes meet on the Y section.
the inside, where the pipes meet, is a sloppy circle, and not even close to being 3 inches in diameter. its probably 2.5 at max, and its gonna create a ton of turbulence because its directly in the path of the incoming exhaust. A ledge is created and the incoming exhaust flow is gonna hit that ledge. not ideal.

http://207.127.219.37/images/jethoty.jpg

http://207.127.219.37/images/jethoty2.jpg

http://207.127.219.37/images/jethoty3.jpg

http://207.127.219.37/images/jethoty4.jpg

http://207.127.219.37/images/jethoty5.jpg

i'm installing tonight. will update with any issues...

[Stew]

Mac midlengths
ory
cutout
SLP dual-dual

Macs throught he cueout are very loud and raspy.Screams at wot!Throught he d/d sounds very nice and throaty,not too loud.Perfect for those late night drives when you don't want any attention....Very happy with this setup.

[02RedWS6TA]

Jet-hot headers, Hooker off road Y-pipe, Corsa exhaust.

Headers were a pretty easy install (about 5 hours from start to finish using jacks and jack stands in my driveway). They sound awsome, a little raspy but not bad.

Corsa, I pulled my old exhaust out whole so it took about 3 hours to drop the rear end and pull the exhaust out. (did this with a jack so I didn't have a lot of clearence).

Sound clip of the Headers, ORY, and through the Corsa I pipe (no muffler at the current time)

http://www.thebestgen.com/images/Openexhaust.WMV

Sound clip of the whole set up:

http://www.thebestgen.com/images/Cornervid.WMV

I did have a problem with the Corsa muffler, the first one they sent me had some very cheap welds on the baffles but the second one was great. Overall I'm totally happy.

[Blacker]

Headers: Hooker Long Tube
Y-Pipe: Hooker Offroad Y-Pipe
Catback: Magnaflow

Installation:
The installation was straight forward and was quite easy. I had to remove the oil dipstick tube, steering shaft, grind down the engine block casting and remove the sprakplugs. The Y-Pipe fit perfectly and had some banging. I changed it out for a custom Y-Pipe because I needed cats to pass inspection. After tuning the fuel system with the MAFT, I gained 31.7rwhp at the dyno. The air tube and egr tubes were oriented perfectly and the threads were in great shape. The headers have a 5/16" flange, 18 gauge mild steel tubing and 3" collectors. The tube lengths are 31".

Long Term Results
The headers lasted 20 months before failing. The Air Tube on the driver's side header broke the weld rendering the car useless. The headers had to returned to JetHot to be repaired. The JetHot Coating was rusting in the collector area and had to be recoated. The track times dropped 3 tenths and gained 3 mph. The coating started rusting within the first year of service on the car.

Bottom Line
This is a decent header and might not be the best for long term durability. The mild steel and subpar welds may have contributed to the failure. This is a good mid priced header for those not wanting 304 stainless steel. Look into other brands of coatings. Not impressed with JetHot Coatings in long term corrosion protection

I am replacing them with QTP Stainless Steel Headers and will have an impression in the next week or so.

[Blacker]

QTP Header:

These headers are the best quality headers that I have ever seen. The welds are great and smoothed out inside the flange. The headers are made from 304 Stainless Steel with a wall thickness of 0.049”. The Hooker LT’s have the primary sticking through the flange, as the QTP’s do not. The flange is smooth on the head side and provides a better seal. When I removed the Hooker LT’s, I had a header leak on #6 and #7. The Hooker LT was torqued per spec and still had a small leak. The QTP's tuck up great and ground clearance is great, even with cats. The O2 bungs are on the inside of the header, they way they should be.


Installation:

The passenger side header slid right in without trouble. I used the Stage 8 bolt’s as well. The driver side is a tad more difficult. I removed the oil filter and drain plug. Then, the header slid up into place. The car was off the ground 20” and no problems in that area. These were easier to install than the Hooker LT’s I had before. Out of all of the LT’s I have installed, these were the easiest. The headers are pull closer to the engine giving a lot of clearance around steering shaft.

Y-Pipe Installation:

This came in 5 pieces. It looks intimidating but it really isn’t. I just started with the pieces that go onto each header collector. Rotating the piece to get the best clearance, progress to the next piece. The band clamp, that QTP provided, are strong. They are much better than the thin, stainless clamps that I used during the Hooker LT install. These clamps are narrower and very thick.

Gotta give QTP a :2thumbs: for an outstanding product. When I ordered mine Barry was very helpful and the ETA was dead on. Great product and great customer service...................priceless in my book.

Here are some pics:

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/IMG_0889.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/IMG_0890.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/IMG_0891.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/IMG_0892.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/IMG_0893.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/IMG_0894.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/IMG_0895.JPG

http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/IMG_0896.JPG

[bryan c]

Installed the SuperMaxx system over the weekend. Everything went smooth. Believe it or not, the hardest part was getting the freaking plug wires off. This was my first header install, it took me right at 12 hours by myself. Wife and daughter provided "supervision", but no actual help. Notes/tips:

1) I put the rear on ramps and the front on jackstands. The front was a little less than 2-ft. off the ground. I read/was told it would need to be almost 3-ft. off the ground, but I didn't have any problems at 2-ft.

2) Both headers slid in without any problems. I made two temporary studs by cutting the heads off two 8 mm (1.25 thread pitch) bolts. I screwed the studs into the header bolt holes and hung the gaskets and headers off of them to facilitate threading the header bolts. Worked great. I used Breslin Split-Lock bolts. They're nice pieces.

3) In addition to standard hand tools, the following tools were/would be helpful: 3/8" pivot head wrachet wrench, various length wobble extensions, stubby wrachet, & air wrachet

The SuperMaxx system comes with metal OE type gaskets, O2 extensions, clamps, bolts, and well written instructions. The headers are very well made. The headers and y-pipe fit good, but the clearance is tight under the passenger side heat shield. I'm sure it will hit the heat shield under acceleration. It looks like it would have been easy to incorporate the use of the factory y-pipe hanger, but for some reason it doesn't. :confused:

I haven't had a chance to really drive it hard yet, it's been raining ever since I finished. It sounds nice with my Random Tech catback. No rasp, but there is some interior drone from 2500-3000 rpms. It's quiet at cruising, but sounds like a Nextel Cup car after 4500 or so rpms.

:drive:

[ELS1]

Installed Flowtech Long Tube Headers with Flowtech Off Road Y-Pipe.

Headers came with o2 extentions, gakets, bolts...basically everything needed except o2 simms. Fitment was great...a few snags here in here, but not the headers fault. The y-pipe also went in without any problems.

I made a mistake by using the stock header bolts...make sure you use the supplied bolts w/lock washers!!

Setup: I just have a dynomax 12'' bullet..part #24222...it sounds AMAZING...some rasp in the 2200-2500 rpm range...but just sounds amazing.

I feel a better response in throttle, especially at highway speeds.

I dont know why people say that these header fit like crap...I must of got a new batch of them or something...

Total price for everything: $407 SHIPPED from thunder-racing...and a few scars from the install :)

[-=boM=-]

Jet Hot LT's, Catless, SLP 345 HP exhaust (2002)
Jet Hots took me a weekend to do by myself with a few simple tools.

Install in sig.

Huge increase in high rpm power and torque. Sorry no numbers.
Moderately loud. People compare it to a quite NASCAR if that makes sense.

I was very happy with the setup at first. I want to go to true duals now.

[C-B64]

Flowtech LT Headers& Y Pipe
Hooker Catback
Flowtech Cutout
McCord powerplate.....

I love this set up, The Hooker Is quiet at idle but sound Bad Arse at Wot..... When I wann be loud and let the cam be heard I just open the cutout. Its just loud, but I love it. I sounds awesome Ecspecially at wot..... At idle with powerplate open the car just sounds wicked....

I would reccommend the Catback and Electric cutout to anyone, I would also reccommend people to stay away from the Flowtech LT's, I wish I had gotten pace setters but oh well...

[Kal-El]

had flowmaster dumped with stock and sounded ok.
installed flowtech LT's and borla and sounded awesome in my opinion but the K-member needed an extensive amount of grinding and i still need an aftermarket k-member cause my motor mounts are bad thats why the headers do not bang.

I now have the headers and an open ORY and i love it except when it rains i get scared, but i think that that is the best exhaust. I planned on getting magnaflow TD's thats why i have the open ORY.

My .02 dont get Flowtech until they fix they're fitment issues, just cause they are cheap does not mean they are good you get what you pay for.

Originally posted by C-B64
I would also reccommend people to stay away from the Flowtech LT's, I wish I had gotten pace setters but oh well...

:werd:

[tleonzo]

Dynatech long tubes w/catted y-pipe and SLP Loudmouth w/dual dual tips!!

I love the sound of the loudmouth by itself.....added the Dynatech system and it sounds mean..very intimidating and very loud when you open it up.....
:D

If you wanna be noticed this set up will work

[Constrictor]

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[Constrictor]

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[02kobrakiller]

I know this will hurt some feelings but I am getting Hooker lt for Christmas and was wondering is there an exaust setup that sounds like a Ford. I know it hurts but I think it sounds good and I have never heard a Fbody sound like that. I know there is a difference in motors but does anyone have a suggestion. I am LS1 through and through but I like the exaust sounds of a Slobra. Also is there a horse power gain with Duels than single. Thanks for any info.

[-=boM=-]

Jet Hot LTs / ORY / no cats / SLP DCME
In a few months I am going to a true dual setup. I haven't decide how to goabout it yet due to me wanting to keep my Dual Center Mount exhuast tips/facia.
I had some YPipe banging issues but resolved it.
There are a couple of cures for this from the rubber hose mod to cutting the metal off where it is banging.
I cut the metal out with a grinder.
Where you have your hose mod on your Ypipe; just cut out that bit of metal frame and you will loose all the vibration your are getting from the YPipe lying against it.


http://community.webshots.com/photo...130301660XgQXcC
http://community.webshots.com/photo...130301621HGHePo

[2MCHPWR]

Originally posted by Blacker

The headers lasted 20 months before failing. The Air Tube on the driver's side header broke the weld rendering the car useless.


this is not an isolated occurrence. it happened to mine too:
http://207.127.219.37/images/jethothole2.jpg

i had a local shop weld up the hole and i hit it with spray paint:rolleyes:

http://207.127.219.37/images/jethotfixed.jpg

as an update to my exhaust system, i hated the design of the jethot y pipe so much that i had mufflex cut off the "Y" section and replace with a magnaflow transition pipe:

http://207.127.219.37/images/jethotymod.jpg

but then i got a lot of rasp, even with the SLP dual/dual, so i put an 18" muffler at the end of the I-pipe (with a cutout at the end of it):

http://207.127.219.37/images/exhaust6.jpg

so now i am very pleased with the exhaust. very quiet when capped, but when uncapped, has a nice low deep tone that is pretty loud.

[actionjack]

Mac midlength headers/cats/Y pipe with Magnaflow catback. No dyno yet and it is running a little rich so I want to get a tune.

I spent months reading other's reviews on exhaust set ups. I finally made my decision to go with the Mac headers/cats/Y pipe because the whole system was purchased for a great price and the Mac mids have shown great flow and the Y pipe is a definate improvement from the stock Y pipe. The cats for Mac are not known for their high flow capacity but the I had a clogged cat with my stock setup and I want the whole package from Mac and will not do an ORY setup. The Mac is still a very good flowing system and should be all I need for my 500 HP goal.

The cat back took a bit longer to decide since it was not only HP gains but sound. The latter is a per person opinion.Finally, I was down to GMMG, Bassoni TD, LM dual/dual, or Magnaflow. With Magnaflow the sound and HP gains was in the range I was happy with and the price was exactly where I wanted.

Link to a sound clip of this set up (http://www.ls1fbody.com/Video/driveby_magnaflow_mac.wmv)

:drive:

[FLYNLOW]

2004 Corvette - Catbacks - GHL Bullets with 3.5" bullseye quad tips. Mean, low idle. Growling, menacing part throttle. Exotic, but not loud, WOT. Same as stock at 75 mph on expressway.
Estimate 20 plus rwhp increase with Vararam intake & velocity stack. Extremely pleased with GHL sound and quality; the big name tuners all say GHL is easily the best, I'm glad I listened to them.

Since the rear end had to be lifted at least 30" I had them put on by dealer - installation cost was $59, stock pipes came off in one piece. Dealer tech said the GHLs fit better than the stock set so job was a breeze.

Just so you don't start thinking I'm a total wimp for not installing my own catbacks, when I got them it was 6 weeks after rolling a SUV 7 times with no seatbelt on and being thrown out on last roll; I was one hurt puppy who's still recovering.

[SweetJones]

kooks lt race headers w/ kooks custom y pipe w/ no muffler! all behind a 425rwhp motor. sounds like a top fuel dragster idleing. i love it!

[UnleashedBeast]

Originally posted by Turbonestock
kooks lt race headers w/ kooks custom y pipe w/ no muffler! all behind a 425rwhp motor. sounds like a top fuel dragster idleing. i love it!

and yet you want to sell it. Damn shame. :slap:

[macon]

Jet Hot LT - Jet Hot Y - 3.5" Mufflex with Spin Tech...low to the ground, back up and enter parking lots at an angle avoid speed bumps and have fun. Had the Flow Master...so does everyone else it seems...had the Magna Flow....not bad...but the SpinTech allows me to drive gently and frankly quietly...hit the ZEX and heads will turn...LOUD. From what I understand anyone correct me...true duals will lessen torque compared to the Y/Single set up...unless of course the motor is built to add torque...for now with the exception of ZEX 125 shot and SLP air lid/K&N I'm pretty much stock. My aim is to have the body/suspension/brakes ready fore the engine.

Addemdum: I still get the yellow glow of the Service Engine Lamp even with the Casper SIMS on the rear...P0135, P0155 and an occassional P0133 code...I think the O2 sensors may have been damaged or that 57,000 miles is time to change them out. Thanks to Hypertech for code reading and clearing!

[SRfastZ]

Mac midlengths
ORY
with 3 inch borla catback
sounds good

[280Z28]

Can someone merge this into the official thread please? It won't let me post a reply in there. :sadnana:

Pre-review notes:
My car is cammed (218/224). If you're going for the sound you hear, you'll be more likely to hit it by getting a cam and a completely different exhaust than you are if you just buy one of the setups I list below. When it comes to sound, the biggest similarities and differences are caused by the following. Remember this when you're trying to figure out why your car sounds more like one other car and less like another.

Cam choice #1 by far
Single vs duals
Cats vs no cats
Other things

Setup 1:

FLP headers/Y-pipe
No cats
Flowmasters, looked like a regular exhaust shop install

Observations: It's been a while now. It sounded good to me though. Screamed at WOT. I never had the drone problem people complain about so much. As far as I can tell, my 6sp tranny could have a lot to do with that, since I'm at a lower RPM than an auto is most of the time.
Pros: cheap
Cons: bad reputation in the F-bod community, so you'll have a system that's looked down on by a lot of people. The tips that were used were pretty ugly :thumbdn: They were probably off-the-shelf units from some muffler shop.
Power: See below

Setup 2:

FLP headers/Y
No cats
Hooker catback

Observations: Sound was more liquid than the Flowmasters. More drone-ey at part throttle acceleration (like, the acceleration you're doing 90% of the time). Less drone at cruise, to my ears sounds stock but my reference point is a little whack. :umm: Roars when I open it up.
Pros: Looks great! Cheap for an all-mandrel catback.
Cons: Cheap, which also means everyone and their mom has one (if that's a problem for you). I hear the tips can rust quickly, but mine are fine after 6 months plus see my comment below. Only problem I've had is with it being droopy, but that got fixed as shown here:
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=311313
Final comment: I'm the third owner of this Hooker catback. It's in great condition and I love it. I don't know why it was up for sale twice before.

Now the big question: power?

Dynod the Flowmaster setup with my regular timing, 513rwhp. +2 degrees got me the numbers in my sig.
Only change was the catback. Hooker setup was 511rwhp. I didn't have the timing advanced.

The power and torque was the same between the two setups throughout the entire powerband. You decide for yourself what to read in that.

[gettinthere]

;)