160 Thermostat & Fan switch

[dtc503]

Is there a performance or engine reliability advantage by doing these mods to a stock ls1 ?

[Blacker]

The fan switch is more important than the thermostat. The stock fan temps are:

Fan 1 on 222
Fan 1 off 229

Fan 2 on 237
Fan 2 off 230

With the fan switch, you can be under 200* all the time. I am using the programming method and run 195* with the stock thermostat. With a lower thermostat, you can reduce the chance of having detonation and to keep those temps down. I will be replacing my stock unit for a 180* unit

[dropkick]

As Blacker stated, the only real performance advantage is allowing your engine to run cooler. If you have a problem with detonation and knock retard, running cooler will help.

[chrismcdaniel]

and a little FYI, im no electrical guy at all, but if you follow the directions on ls1howto.com for the fan switch, it will only cost about 3 bucks to install vs the 70 bucks most places charge for the kit. Its realy easy if i was able to do it trust me.:cool:

[PC PaiN]

home made fan switches with LED lights are the shiznit :cool:

[Blacker]

Originally posted by BlackWS602
home made fan switches with LED lights are the shiznit :cool:

Yes they are since the SLP Products are waayyyy overpriced.

[PC PaiN]

SLP products over priced? NAAAAH :p :o

[bRa_DeN]

doesnt the lower thermostat affect how good your heater works?:)

[Josey]

my heater worked fine with my 160 thermo.... :)

[dtc503]

What's the problem with using the SLP thermostat and switch kit ? I know I probably could do it myself, but I've had good sucess with there products.

[dropkick]

Originally posted by dtc503
What's the problem with using the SLP thermostat and switch kit ? I know I probably could do it myself, but I've had good sucess with there products.

There's nothing wrong with the SLP kit, it's just overpriced. I have the SLP Fan Switch and it works great and was easy to install.

A better option would be to reprogram your fans to turn on at a lower temperature. That eliminates the need for the fan switch. You can shop around for a used Hypertech or Microchips tuner or go to a shop and have it done with LS1Edit. Since I reprogammed my fan settings, I don't use my fan switch anymore.

[dtc503]

How do I find a shop in my area, Portland, Oregon that has the LS1 Edit?

[slow]

the ls1howto.com link will give you seslights. ;)

the slp switch has some electronics, as well as the mating packard weather pack connectors, might be worth $50 not 80 shipped like the sell it for.

There is 2 ways to eliminate them, 1 posted one in the archive on ls1.com, but here is the simple directions http://makoto.dyndns.org/fan_switch.html but subsitute 2 watt resitors.

Or you can do it the slp method, by buying their switch

I made a plug and play one like the slp switch, but using a custom nx style switch panel. I sell these, if your interested, e-mail me.

Ryan

[chrismcdaniel]

Originally posted by slow
the ls1howto.com link will give you seslights. ;)

the slp switch has some electronics, as well as the mating packard weather pack connectors, might be worth $50 not 80 shipped like the sell it for.

There is 2 ways to eliminate them, 1 posted one in the archive on ls1.com, but here is the simple directions http://makoto.dyndns.org/fan_switch.html but subsitute 2 watt resitors.

Or you can do it the slp method, by buying their switch

I made a plug and play one like the slp switch, but using a custom nx style switch panel. I sell these, if your interested, e-mail me.

Ryan


well, someone needs to tell my pcm to start putting out an SES light, because i have had the switch (Followed the instructions on ls1howto.com) for about 10,000 miles now, and i havent ever had a SES come on. And neither has any of my numerous budies who have the same mod. You realy shouldnt try to sale your products by bashing something else when there isnt anything wrong with it. By you putting BS info out like that you will put a seed of doubt in peoples heads about a very inexpensive mod that is trouble free. SO CUT THE CRAP!!!

[slow]

ALRIGHT, POST THE DIRECT LINK TO THE LS1HOWTO SITE. so i can double check their method, I've seen it before, but could not find it this time to verify how they do it. most methods are one of 2 ways wrong, 1 they provide ses lights, or 2, you are hardwiring the fans, and running highcurrent wires to the switch. The howto might be that method, im not sure? help me out with a link.

i searched their "how to's and did not see a fan mod for the f-cars.

I don't know what fans your operating, (hi low both) or what vehicle your in, Im assuming you have a f-car, and can control both the high and low speeds, as that is what the slp fan switch controls. I am also assuming your controling the relay, and not hardwiring the fans by powering them directly, as that will not throw a code either (but you need 40 amp capable wire/relay/switch/fuse to do that right, a little more than $4 in parts ;) to get low and high speeds using this method ;))

I do know, that 99% of the "how to's" on the net will throw a code, as they ground pin J of the connector C100 and this will throw a code, if the vehicle is started up with the fan switch on, as the startup check will fail, as there is no voltage present on that pin of the computer.


I also posted a FREE method of doing this mod, if i was just concerned about selling crap, there is no way i would have done that ;)

I posted the 1 publically published version of the fan mod, that will not throw a code. If you know of a second one, let me know, and i will try it on my car. I've tested almost every version i can find, and all but the makoto's version throws a code, at some point.

However, that is not how slp does thiers, they do it with electronics in the plug in wiring harness, I have taken them apart, and know how it works, and why they do it. I don't know if i should publish that information, as that might have legal issues. I have never turned anybody away from the information if they asked for it ;) It would require cutting your factory harness if your not using a plug in harness. not just splicing like most fan mods do.

Ryan :mad:

[killer01ws6]

Ok you both said your peace. And I think it was a misunderstanding.
But at this point lets make sure we keep it nice and civil, not that it has not been...... but we are getting close to someone losing it.

:)
Play nice.

[slow]

:sorry:

i do still want that link though.

Ryan. :D

[chrismcdaniel]

well, like i said i did the mod 10,000 miles ago, so i may be wrong about where to find the write up. But i have done several cars the same way i did mine, But i DID not "splice" into the harness, you would have to be crazy to put a cheap mod in that could distroy a 800 dollar wiring harness. But i do have hi and low rate run of a 3 positon 30 amp safe toggle. and i used a few 1/2 watt resistors. all these parts at radio shack plus the wire that i had laying around but could have bout realy cheap may have cost me a little more that 4 bucks but not much. I think we probably both have the same Idea, and I apologize for thinking you where just trying to sale your product. I am just all about helping people save money where they can on little mods like this, because SLP realy pisses me off with their prices.
Maybe you and I should colaborate and do a full write up on different 2 ways to do this mod without tripping a SES light.

version 1. cheaper less bells and wistles
version 2. Bling Bling with the L.E.D.s and the N20 switch panels.

[slow]

do you remember if the resistors were 47 ohm, or approx 470 ohm? And do you have led's?

and im sorry for reacting like that to you, just a misunderstanding :cool:

and i agree 100% on the no splice method, i went to buy the connectors from GM, and of course they said "not available" just as part of the wiring harness..... $800 for one side, and $1000 for he other side :eek: They are available through AC delco with pigtails on them for list cost of $70 per side, and $80 a set shipped from GM parts direct.

Buying them in bulk from packard cuts the cost a lot ;)

Thanks

Ryan